Yep, wheen ever the ig mod is replaced, you should put in new pickup coil in the distrib.
My 87 Tbird with the turbo 2.3 was doing same thing.

 

If It's Starting And Running On Starting Fluid Right After It Quits, That Would Indicate A Fuel Problem. If You Have Not Changed The Fuel Filter, Do So Now, Cheap Insurance And Should Be Done About Every 30k. As Mentioned Above, You May Also Have A Relay Problem Or Connection Problem, Hot Or Ground. Do The Pressure Check At The Fuel Rail Also As Mentioned Above. A Problem With The Ignition Module And/or Stator WilL CAUSE A NO SPARK SITUATION AND THE VEHICLE SHOULD NOT RUN ON STARTER FLUID. KEEP US POSTED. DAN.
Dan.

 

Sorry, didn't see the starting fluid part! y2kfordparts is correct, it shouldn't run if no spark. Fuel problem is likely like mentioned, check the relay is usually the green one on this vehicle on the rh fender well if I remember right.

 

I have an '88 2.9 that would do the same thing. It was a bad roll over sensor / fuel pump cut off under the glove box. I jumped it out and never a problem again. I replaced it with another one and still no problem.

Easy fix with 3" of wire or less. That used to drive my X nuts cause it would only do it when she drove it . . .

Good luck on that.

Rich

 

let me say thanx for all that have replied. i had heard of replacing the stator also. have to get someone who is a wrench turner for that one me thinks. i also had a hunch that maybe that fuel cut off switch might be the bugger n had thought of over ridning it or by passing it. i had installed a new water pump n thermo--cuz it was runnin hot tho the dash gauge realy didnt say it was. it kinda acted like vapor lock. i noticed the fuel rail lays right on top of the oil cover in all that heat. so far it hasnt acted up--but i have kept all suggestions n will try each one if she get weirds again. n by the way bro---every time my girl friend gets in it n we go some where--the truck acts up---n she says the truck hates her. it just aint good guys--ya know? llol. heres to u all for ur help

 

do u have to pull the distributor to replace it? had happened to talk to a ford mech n he told me about the stator too--but i didnt get a chance to aske him how to replace it.

 

that did happen back in the spring. the old one got hot--[truck was runnin hot too] n it stopped. i didnt know what the hey--n walked off n came back in a hour n it took right off. got in town n asked a mech n he told me to take it n have it checked. sure enough when it got hot -under load ----it broke down. bought another one fr0m discount store n it died real quick. turns out there was a bulleton on ones made in brazil n italy n some other places that had defective soldering. bought name brand one n it was ok. hasnt acted up since i replaced water pump n thermo. but then i havent been out far away --n maybe she is just waiting till i get in no mans land--ya know? lol. i miss my mazda--she didnt thro fits

 

well the fuel cut off switch can be a b!t(h i had to replace mine on a 06 ranger and along with instroment cluster but that unrelated the cut off switch will make motor slowly die tho as the gas is drained from ur fuel rails and gas line best bet go to dealer ask them i knew mine was bad because it cut my motor when i took hard conners at the bottom of two hills going up the second but ud know because the switch doesnt turn off also i think those are only on newer post class action suite vehicals after the whole exploder thing but yes rangers throw fits when they dont feel right but thats a once in a blue moon whith pigs flying kinda deal almost never happens without human envolvement so just keep ur eye out for any other problems

 

ok--i was out doin errands n when i went to start her after i stopped n had been on a rough road--she woulndt start. so----i checked the fuel cut off--i pressed the reset n she tried to start--so--i tapped on her-reset-n it tried to satrt. i did this 3 times n on the 3rd try-she started right up. so--mabe the cut off switch? there r only 2 wires runin to it. why cant i just wire the 2 straight. will it runn that way? what ya think?

 

only one way to find out , lol...

 

yeah--my first thought was get out the knife n cut the wires n tie them together by passin it. but---my next thought was--could that screw up something else--more expensive? it seems since it only has 2 wires that bypassin it should be a cure. apparently it works like the seat switch on my freakin mower---so when u raise up of the seat the damn thing stops. i cut the wires n tied them directly to each other n i dont have that propblem any more--but then --its a mower. any way--today as i drove i noticed it was actin a lil strange. i stopped to run in the store n was gone maybe 15 minutes n when i came out--no start--so i sat n thought--i reached dwon n hit the reset button on the cut off--but it didnt seem like it was tripped--i tried it--it didnt start--cranked well--so--i tapped on the side of the switch nthen hit the top reset n it clicked. gues what? it started right up n ran well. next stop auto parts n a replacement switch is around 80 bucks--which i do not have. which is why i was thinkin of wiring around the switch. so----who knows or thinks this is ok n will not cause a problem. and please--its a holiday weekend--lets all becareful out there.

 

i thought that switch is wired into some sensors in the front bumper or so in order cut the fuel off immediately when in an accident..
so ok if you by-pass it you wouldn't have that feature. on the other hand i would think very few vehicles on the road even have that feature in the first place.. it's the first i ever heard of it ..
good luck and as u say stay safe this weekend.

 

Maybe consider a trip to your local salvage yard for a replacement inertia switch, if funds are low for a new one.

It's a good safety item to have in an accident & if disabled or jumpered, would let the fuel pump continue to run, thus increasing a fire hazzard and maybe a "no pay" from the insurance company if disabled.

So if your convinced it's bad, one way or the other replace it.

 

this lil bugger is inside -on the passenger side-just above where ur feet would point -kinda on the low fire wall at the carpet line-. about the size of a cigarette liter -with a lil white rocker button on top. 2 wires -maybe orange comin out n in of the bottom. i tapped it hard to cause it to trip--apparently it wasnt all the way. then i pushed it n the truck started right up/ i made it to anothre parts store n he explained how it worked to me. guess its wore out inside n is overly sensitive to vibration now. i had a smoke detector that was so sensitive --it went off if u sneezed. replaced it n all was well. i was goin to just do the bypass as a last ditch measure till i located one. thanks bros.

 

yep sounds like u have it diagnosed right. let's know what u do and how it turns out...