WTF do I have?
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From: Fort Wainwright
WTF do I have?
I just purchased a 1976 F-250 4x4 from a buddy. The truck originally had a 360 2 barrel. My buddy who owned the truck previously says it has a 390. I was looking around for any numbers and what I seen so far was the 352 with what looks like 30 above it on the front on the block and the casting number C8ME-A on the underneath. The main reason I need to know what size the block is because I need to rebuild it. Oil is shooting through the spark plug holes and the clutch went out today. The truck has headers, a 4 barrel carburetor, and other performance parts.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I just purchased a 1976 F-250 4x4 from a buddy. The truck originally had a 360 2 barrel. My buddy who owned the truck previously says it has a 390. I was looking around for any numbers and what I seen so far was the 352 with what looks like 30 above it on the front on the block and the casting number C8ME-A on the underneath. The main reason I need to know what size the block is because I need to rebuild it. Oil is shooting through the spark plug holes and the clutch went out today. The truck has headers, a 4 barrel carburetor, and other performance parts.
As original, all the 1973/76 F100/250's with 4WD only came with one V8 engine = the 360 2V. The VIN engine code (4th digit) is a Y.
On sale day, 352 & 360 engines magically become 390's.
Is it a 390 now? Measure the stroke: 352/360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78"
These blocks all have 352 cast into them...because that's what they were cast as. When finished, they could be 352's (1965/67) 360's or 390's (1968/76).
C8ME is a 1968 casting number. Ford casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to actual Ford part numbers.
F100/350: The same 360 short block was used 1968/76, ditto for the 390 short block.
Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: CT
The 360 and 390 share the same 4.05 bore block. As Bill mentioned just the crank stroke (and longer rods on the 360) is the difference. Being you plan to remove the engine and rebuild it that's the best time to see what you have. Most common 390 cranks have either a "2U or 3U" stamped in the counterweight. The 390's use the short FE rods. Common 360 cranks stamped "2T and 2TA" in the same location and use the longer 352-360 rods. Just about everything in and on the engine has a casting number cast or stamped into it. And are easy to ID for the most part. Blocks are the pitfall as some used generic casting numbers. This means you can find the same casting number on different bore blocks. There are some that pertain to a certain block but not many. Bill is our resident Ford historian/parts expert guy. Many other experts here too that'll help along the way. RapidRuss, Redmanbob and Hypoid to name a few of many. Me?... I'm just here for the beer. Welcome to FTE.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Golden, CO
There ya go calling me names! I could overlook that new guy calling me a guru because he really doesn't know I live under a shady tree. You ought to know better Glenn. I'm still learning this stuff, some from you.
Timothy, with all the plugs out, turn the crankshaft so the timing pointer is on the TDC mark on the balancer. Stick a long dowell in the #1 spark plug hole to measure depth, make a mark. Stick the same dowell in the #4 hole, make a mark and measure the difference between the two marks. This will give you the stroke measurement.
You really need to try and be consistant in how you do this, measure a few times to check yourself. Don't break the stick off on the hole. LOL
Timothy, with all the plugs out, turn the crankshaft so the timing pointer is on the TDC mark on the balancer. Stick a long dowell in the #1 spark plug hole to measure depth, make a mark. Stick the same dowell in the #4 hole, make a mark and measure the difference between the two marks. This will give you the stroke measurement.
You really need to try and be consistant in how you do this, measure a few times to check yourself. Don't break the stick off on the hole. LOL
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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With all due respect who cares what displacement your engine is. Fact of the matter is you're rebuilding it so you can make almost anything you want out of that old girl. If you're lucky it's already a 390, and if it's a 360 make it a 410 with a long arm crank. Whatever you do, don't waste your money rebuilding a 360 gas hog...
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From: Fort Wainwright
Another look
I just purchased a 1976 F-250 4x4 from a buddy. The truck originally had a 360 2 barrel. My buddy who owned the truck previously says it has a 390. I was looking around for any numbers and what I seen so far was the 352 with what looks like 30 above it on the front on the block and the casting number C8ME-A on the underneath. The main reason I need to know what size the block is because I need to rebuild it. Oil is shooting through the spark plug holes and the clutch went out today. The truck has headers, a 4 barrel carburetor, and other performance parts.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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If this motor is basically dead, which it sounds like it is, just pull it out and pull it apart. As indicated, there is little sense in putting it back together as a stock low compression 360, when you can do it up as a 390 with reasonable compression, get at least 50% more power out of it and burn the same amount of gas.
That it was built up of parts from several years is no problem--you can keep what works and replace what jerks in your rebuild.
While the factory cast manifolds can be quite good, an aluminum unit will help your back and reduce the road-hugging weight, along with better performance depending on what you have now.
All kinds of info here, including specific build info. Pay attention to head and pushrod issues, and oiling--two yawner items that will kill your motor if they aren't tended to.
Good luck.
That it was built up of parts from several years is no problem--you can keep what works and replace what jerks in your rebuild.
While the factory cast manifolds can be quite good, an aluminum unit will help your back and reduce the road-hugging weight, along with better performance depending on what you have now.
All kinds of info here, including specific build info. Pay attention to head and pushrod issues, and oiling--two yawner items that will kill your motor if they aren't tended to.
Good luck.
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Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: CT
Heads might be C8AE-6090-H. Look on the opposite side from the C8AE and you'll see the 6090-H. Sounds like just the intake was swapped for the C6-G 4bbl. Once you check the stroke you'll know more.
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Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
That 6 is actually a C = C8AE. Foundry marks can be hard to read.
68 is the prefix for 1936.
68 is the prefix for 1936.
Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,624
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From: CT
There ya go calling me names! I could overlook that new guy calling me a guru because he really doesn't know I live under a shady tree. You ought to know better Glenn. I'm still learning this stuff, some from you.
Timothy, with all the plugs out, turn the crankshaft so the timing pointer is on the TDC mark on the balancer. Stick a long dowell in the #1 spark plug hole to measure depth, make a mark. Stick the same dowell in the #4 hole, make a mark and measure the difference between the two marks. This will give you the stroke measurement.
You really need to try and be consistant in how you do this, measure a few times to check yourself. Don't break the stick off on the hole. LOL
Timothy, with all the plugs out, turn the crankshaft so the timing pointer is on the TDC mark on the balancer. Stick a long dowell in the #1 spark plug hole to measure depth, make a mark. Stick the same dowell in the #4 hole, make a mark and measure the difference between the two marks. This will give you the stroke measurement.
You really need to try and be consistant in how you do this, measure a few times to check yourself. Don't break the stick off on the hole. LOL
Well with 4 years and some 1800+ posts on this board you know what your talking about that's for sure.
Heck I'm still learning new things here all the time.
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