Need new bolts for the bed of my '76 and figured it will probably be easier/cheaper to use regular hex head bolts to fasten it down. Sounds like I'm looking for 1/2"x4" bolts, but I'm wondering what the opinion is on grade 5 vs. grade 8 bolts. Guessing that grade 5 should be enough, but figured I'd ask.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks!

 

Well, one issue that you could potentially have is that since a standard bolt doesn't have the square shank at the head like a carriage bolt does, you could have a minor amount of shift in the bed after some time. The carriage bolts are meant to sit in the square holes so you only have to tighten them up on one end. Since the hole in the bed is square, you might get a little bit of squeaking and such. Just a theory.

As for grade 5 versus 8? I had the set of carriage bolts sent from LMC, which were cheap crapola, and they didn't fit worth a damn. They actually went so far as to spin in the holes when tightened. That being the case, I had a set of custom carriage bolts made. Basically, it was like a 5/16" carriage bolt, but the threaded portion of the bolt was turned down to 1/2", and rethreaded. NOT a cheap fix, but they fit into the holes perfectly. The downside was that the carriage bolts don't come in grade 8, unless you special order, and even then I'm not sure they're available. So, I was left with grade 5. The'll be fine, as I doubt I'd ever have such a load in the bed that would have enough inertia to laterally shear 8,grade 5,1/2" carriage bolts at the same time.

Besides, from a purely aesthetic standpoint, standard bolts in the bed would goofy...at least to me.

 

That's what I figured from LMC -- would rather not take that route. It doesn't appear that NPD or Dennis Carpenter carries the bolt sets, so I'm not sure what route to take. I have zero interest in spending the money to have bolts turned to size -- it's not going to be a show truck by any stretch of the imagination.

Anyone else with creative ideas?

 

A possibility, while being a completely back yard fix, would be to get the 1/2" carriage bolts. While they'll possibly twist in the hole in standard form, if you have access to a welder, you could potentially weld enough material onto the square shank that you could file it down for fit. Granted, not the prettiest fix, but at least they'd not twist in the hole.

Just another possibility.

 

Just out of curiosity.. are these available from Ford? My buddy had to get a new set for his Ranger not too long ago.... because he LOST his when he had his bed off. I think it ran him about 50 bucks. But that was a 90 something Ranger... not a 76...

 

Mine has regular bolts on some of em and it looks stupid. I put a rubber mat in the bed to cover em up.

 

most ford trucks should use approximately the same size bolts. also, places like fastenal or kimball midwest should have carriage bolts in grades 5 and 8.

 

Just using normal 1/2" carriage bolts with ours. Currently the center area of the truck bed is rotted big-time, so the only thing that was holding it together? Rust and bird droppings.

It's totally odd however? The center 'bed' area is really rotted, but the sides (that almost a foot wide section) that contacts the floor, and curves into the sides? Looks almost untouched?

With ours, we purchased tube-steel (1/8" thick) from a local firm. Easy to weld and cut. So we are removing the center section one cross member at a time and replacing it. You can currently squeeze the mounted cross members with your hand and have it collapse.

S-

 

You could always just get regular Carriage Bolts and spot weld them in so they don't turn. Just make enough weld to not look crappy and easy enough to grind off to remove them at a later date if needed.

 

Well I was in Fresno Pick & Pull yesterday, I saw 7 Dentside in there, some supercabs 1 with opening quarter windows two with out, and regulars, all were Two wheel drive though. all had the beds still attached. only problem is that it was over 105 dregees there. anyway you could go to your local yard and get a set from a recycled truck.

 

I'm slightly confused. Did you mean 5/8" carriage bolt? If a 1/2" carriage bolt can spin in the hole, I take it that means the hole is larger than 1/2".

ROCKCRAWLER.com - Grade 5 vs. Grade 8 Fasteners


And I found a place with 5/8" Grade 8 Carriage Bolts in 4" lengths
Winter Equipment Company: Plow Bolts & Nuts

Unfortunately, most places I've looked at have 3-1/2" bolts at the most.

And I'll definitely be putting new bolts (maybe all Grade 8) on my truck.

 

You are forgetting that Cali has the most restrictive emission laws on the planet. A very large number of trucks that would normally be quite safe on the highway, and run for many many years? Wind up in the nackers yard due to those emission laws. Not trying to be rude, but a very large amount get sent off to the scrap metal heap to be crushed for recycle. The area I live in? (Central NYS) has just about Zippola for any body parts, and extreme small amounts of physical drive train parts.

As always...it's Location-Location-Location. In this area? These ol' girls are very hard to locate for salvage yard parts.

S-

 

Thanks for all the feedback. I think I'm going to go with the grade 5 carriage bolts and do what I need to do to keep them from spinning when I install. I know I need to find one with a torx or allen head for the final bolt near the driver's side up front due to the captive nut on the frame, but I think I have a source for that as well.

I'll try to let you guys know how it goes.

 

i got my carriage bolts at home depot when the lmc ones weent right. the home depot ones worked fine. no playing involved at all

 

what about a co-op if you guy need parts, maybe when i go to the yards here??? If I can find them ?? maybe you guys might want to pay shipping to get them??? it maybe expensive. but most of the parts here are rust free!

Just a thought!