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I'll be corrected if i'm wrong, but if the truck is stock, i believe the only way you would fry pistons is having oil cooling jet problems.
The fact you say your oil pressure goes all the way up....mabye theres something lodged in there somewhere.
Like I said, get someone to check the oil pressure with a real guage.
I believe the cooling jet nozzles also fall off once in a while, but it seems very rare. (also shouldnt boost oil pressure.)
That happened to the original engine. If there was something failing with the cooling jets on the original engine could that problem transfer to the next engine? I'm not sure how they work. Are they driven by anything electrical? Cause thats all thats still original.
Also how would you go about checking the oil pressure with a "real gauge"? This vehicle is a 35ft limo coach and nobody will touch it.
The oil jets squirt oil at the pistons to cool them. They rely 100% on oil pressure and have nothing to do with electronics.
So you've basically replaced the block, and heads, and used all the old accessories and electronics?
Does the engine ever run warm???
Get someone to check the radiator that it isnt plugged,
Take the air intake apart and insure that the filter is clean, and theres no crap in the intake system.
Theoretically if the intake were blocked, you could burn a piston because the EGT's would skyrocket.
Same problem if the exhaust were harshly restricted, so check it hasnt been hit by a speedbump or something and got crimped shut.
I wish we had a perfect answer for you, but the more we discuss this the closer you'll get...
I swapped out a 98 splitshot engine in a E-350 with a 97 f-250 single shot engine for an auto recycler. It is an absolute disaster! I've had every problem you could imagine. I did have the engine run warm at first until all the air got out. I think that problem is over. I have been running it with out the air cleaner on and the oil pressure is still climing. The exhaust seems fine with no obstructions. I need to try to change the oil pressure sensor first to eliminate that possibility. But I cant do anything until it gets back form the tranny shop. I some how trashed the pump installing the engine. (Thanks Ford, I didn't know you had to be a magician to install your trans.)
Don't run the engine without the air filter!!!! If the turo pulls in any dirt you run the risk of dusting the turbo or ruining the engine. One of our brothers here had a K&N on his truck at some point and that let to the demise of his engine.
Don't run the engine without the air filter!!!! If the turo pulls in any dirt you run the risk of dusting the turbo or ruining the engine. One of our brothers here had a K&N on his truck at some point and that let to the demise of his engine.
I only had this engine running for a few minutes with it out. I never hit the road with it off. It is such a pain to install the air cleaner/intake tube in that van by myself. I was just saying that the oil pressure went up on the gauge and the hard starts are the same with the air cleaner off elimanating the possibility of the air cleaner causing the symptoms.
Someone on here posted that they had a similar problem with the gauge and it was a bad oil pressure sending unit. Is that the sensor on the top of the HPOP? My other problem is the hard starting and the clicking noise that happens everytime right before it starts. Others say you are not supposed to hear that.
I am sorry i haven't read the whole thread just the first and last page. But did you have the injectors out or HPOP system open? if not you need to runt he van on the road hard for about 20-50 mile and that will work the air out of the HPOP system and it will start faster.
Edit: just read the rest of the thread. you need to run the van down the road and work out the air from having the injectors out. that air is causing low ICP pressures resulting in longer crank times. Once the air is out you are good to go.
I am sorry i haven't read the whole thread just the first and last page. But did you have the injectors out or HPOP system open? if not you need to runt he van on the road hard for about 20-50 mile and that will work the air out of the HPOP system and it will start faster.
Edit: just read the rest of the thread. you need to run the van down the road and work out the air from having the injectors out. that air is causing low ICP pressures resulting in longer crank times. Once the air is out you are good to go.
I just picked up the limo from thetrannyshop today. $1300.00 later. I drove it home from the shop and it started fine but It was blowing so much white/grey smoke that I couldn't see anything behind me. I know thatt everybody is going to tell me to drive this for 20 to 50 miles to get the air out but seriously that much smoke? Should that be?
It seems to idle smooth and doesn't smoke much but when I drive it it seems to have a real weird throttle response. Is there anyway possible there might be something wrong that might cause damage to anything by running it like this?
Smoke for a few miles after injector work is very normal. The oil and fuel in the cylinders and exhaust manifolds burns off. Run it and see where you stand. If you have not put more than 20 miles on the truck after the injector work it needs be run.
Smoke for a few miles after injector work is very normal. The oil and fuel in the cylinders and exhaust manifolds burns off. Run it and see where you stand. If you have not put more than 20 miles on the truck after the injector work it needs be run.
I'll go for it..... Anything obvious I should watch out for? I really am just scared that it is dumping oil or too much fuel somewhere somehow and might hydro the engine. Remember I'm a bricklayer, far from a diesel mach. I am forced to change this engine and figure this out cause it is a 35 ft limo coach and an e-350 so nobody will touch it. It also doesn't help any that theres nothing but "part changers" around here.
Nothing to look out for really. As long as the engine doesn't turn over hard there should be no issue with hydrolocking. You are past that concern. The smoke should clear after 5 miles or so. Then just drive it for another 15 miles or so and you should be good to go.