Dash Gauge Cluster Quit
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Dash Gauge Cluster Quit
On my '83 F-100 the Gas, Temp, Oil, & Voltage gauges are all on the right side side of the dash display and quit working. The Speedometer and Dash Lights still work. I've checked and cleaned all the fuses in the fuse box and can't find any loose wires. Anyone know of anything else I could check? any in line fuses, etc.?
Also, I've pulled the dash display cover several times to replace bulbs in the past...the dash component itself I'm not sure of...could it be easily replaced? not sure how it connects.
Thanks!
Also, I've pulled the dash display cover several times to replace bulbs in the past...the dash component itself I'm not sure of...could it be easily replaced? not sure how it connects.
Thanks!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
^GMTA^
D1AZ10804A .. ICVR = Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (Motorcraft GR513)
Fits: 1980/86 F100/350 & Bronco
Sometimes...tapping on it...wakes it up.
It plugs into the back of the printed circuit board on the cluster.
D1AZ10804A .. ICVR = Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (Motorcraft GR513)
Fits: 1980/86 F100/350 & Bronco
Sometimes...tapping on it...wakes it up.
It plugs into the back of the printed circuit board on the cluster.
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Googled Motorcraft Part#GR513 {#D1AZ10804A} and see what it looks like and price runs about $45.
Went out to feel behind the panel and couldn't find it. Mostly plastic backing with about a 3" square hole to the now defunct gauges. Guessing I'll have to pull the dash panel to get to it.
Thanks guys!
Went out to feel behind the panel and couldn't find it. Mostly plastic backing with about a 3" square hole to the now defunct gauges. Guessing I'll have to pull the dash panel to get to it.
Thanks guys!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
Wrecking yard is cheaper for the ICVR, and quite a few models used the same one. So finding a working one would be pretty easy and cheaply.
Also if your truck doesn't have the Factory tach, you could get a whole cluster with tach out of the wreckers and put it in your truck. And a good working used cluster would be around the same price if not cheaper than the ICVR new.
It's plug and play with trucks with ammeter and oil pressure gauges.
Just some of the options for you to consider.
hope this helps.
Also if your truck doesn't have the Factory tach, you could get a whole cluster with tach out of the wreckers and put it in your truck. And a good working used cluster would be around the same price if not cheaper than the ICVR new.
It's plug and play with trucks with ammeter and oil pressure gauges.Just some of the options for you to consider.
hope this helps.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
MSRP: $78.36 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $42.31.
These ICVR's are also sold in parts stores like autozone under other brand names, and are cheaper.
If you go that route, take the Mororcraft part number with you, parts stores can cross the number over to the brands they sell.
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Wrecking yard is cheaper for the ICVR, and quite a few models used the same one. So finding a working one would be pretty easy and cheaply.
Also if your truck doesn't have the Factory tach, you could get a whole cluster with tach out of the wreckers and put it in your truck. And a good working used cluster would be around the same price if not cheaper than the ICVR new. It's plug and play with trucks with ammeter and oil pressure gauges.
Just some of the options for you to consider.
hope this helps.
Also if your truck doesn't have the Factory tach, you could get a whole cluster with tach out of the wreckers and put it in your truck. And a good working used cluster would be around the same price if not cheaper than the ICVR new.
It's plug and play with trucks with ammeter and oil pressure gauges.Just some of the options for you to consider.
hope this helps.
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I called the Salvage Yard to look for me a complete Dash Panel but haven't heard back yet, may not can fine one. Anyhow, I may need to fix the one I have.
In the picture below the IVCR has a metal button holding the ribbon to the part on the left side (#1). On the right (#2) it appears there should be another one but nothing to hold the ribbon against the part is there. It must be missing.
Does this loose connection on the right (#2) just need to be just touching the metal underneath or is there some inter-connection that some short pin must make also? Also, how do you remove metal button #1? Thanks!
In the picture below the IVCR has a metal button holding the ribbon to the part on the left side (#1). On the right (#2) it appears there should be another one but nothing to hold the ribbon against the part is there. It must be missing.
Does this loose connection on the right (#2) just need to be just touching the metal underneath or is there some inter-connection that some short pin must make also? Also, how do you remove metal button #1? Thanks!
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Well, I found the other metal button (#2) but it has no pin attached to plug into anything. Not sure how these are suppose to attach to the IVCR. Anyhow, I use a short screw to reattach it to the ribbon and IVCR.
Now when I switch the key on I can see the Gas Gauge Needle start to rise...and as long as the "Fasten Seat Belt" is lighted up the gas gauge works. But when the "Fasten Seat Belt" light goes out it quits working.
Still sound like a bad IVCR? And what about those metal buttons that connect the ribbon to the IVCR? What holds them on?
Now when I switch the key on I can see the Gas Gauge Needle start to rise...and as long as the "Fasten Seat Belt" is lighted up the gas gauge works. But when the "Fasten Seat Belt" light goes out it quits working.
Still sound like a bad IVCR? And what about those metal buttons that connect the ribbon to the IVCR? What holds them on?
Posting Guru
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From: Niceville, FL.
The buttons snap on and off like a 9 Volt transistor radio battery connector. The ground for the voltage regulator is through its hex-head mounting screw. Intermittent operation of my gauges was corrected by adding a seperate ground wire from the VR mounting tab to the metal dash frame; also helped brighten the instrument bulbs.
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Thanks. I finally got a Dash Panel from the salvage Yard for $25 and that seems to be the easiest way to fix. Found out for an '83 F-100, Standard and Automatic Transmissions don't use the same Dash Panels, connectors are a different size. Also, 4WD puts one of the blinkers flashing on the Brake Light in a 2WD. More specific Dash Panel works best.
And yeah, after getting the working one installed I popped the Button Connector off the old IVCR. Button is a part of the Ribbon and Snaps into the IVCR.
And yeah, after getting the working one installed I popped the Button Connector off the old IVCR. Button is a part of the Ribbon and Snaps into the IVCR.
Posting Guru
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From: Niceville, FL.
Standard and autos use the same panel, you just have to swap the trans indicator. The difference in panels is between the full gauge and the idiot light panels. Full gauge panels use the larger connector; idiot light panels use the smaller connector. They are not interchangeable because the wiring harnesses are different.
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From: Northern California
As was said before, there are no differences in clusters between automatic and Standard transmissions or 4wd and 2wd.
The shift indicator is different between transmissions, but it is removable and swappable. Standard transmissions have a blank in the shift indicator spot etc...
There are differences between gauges and Warning light clusters, these will not swap.
And the cluster out of a 1980 will not work in 1981-1986, or vise versa.
The 1980's cluster has the brake/fasten belt/turn signal indicators transversed, compared to 1981-1986.
So the breakdown is six different clusters and circut boards between 1980-1986.
A: 1980 Only, With Gauges, no tach, (can be swapped with "C")
B: 1980 Only, with Warning Lights. (Cannot be substituted)
C: 1980 only, with gauges and tach. (Can be swapped with "A")
---------
All 1981-1986:
D: Gauges only (Can be swapped with "G")
E: Warning Lights (Cannot be substituted)
G: Gauges with tach, (Can be swapped with "D")
The shift indicator is different between transmissions, but it is removable and swappable. Standard transmissions have a blank in the shift indicator spot etc...
There are differences between gauges and Warning light clusters, these will not swap.
And the cluster out of a 1980 will not work in 1981-1986, or vise versa.
The 1980's cluster has the brake/fasten belt/turn signal indicators transversed, compared to 1981-1986.
So the breakdown is six different clusters and circut boards between 1980-1986.
A: 1980 Only, With Gauges, no tach, (can be swapped with "C")
B: 1980 Only, with Warning Lights. (Cannot be substituted)
C: 1980 only, with gauges and tach. (Can be swapped with "A")
---------
All 1981-1986:
D: Gauges only (Can be swapped with "G")
E: Warning Lights (Cannot be substituted)
G: Gauges with tach, (Can be swapped with "D")
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