Its just the weight and legality issues involved with rocks. Im wanting to keep it street legal which means no pinon brakes, plus those sob's are f***ing heavy. And a disc brake kit cost a **** ton, as does getting the front cut down if its not already, I think one tons will hole honestly, I understand and respect overbuilding, but why not see if you break it first, you know?

 

Its definitely up to you what you want to do, just keep in mind that a fully built d60 with chromo shafts is about the same strength of a stock 2.5rock. With that kind of power and tire you're planning on running I'd research heavily before making a decision.

Also, quadzjr (nick) can help you out with the disc conversion on the rocks I think, he's already done it on his build.

 

ok, lets break this down.

Pro has 44s/Ags and a 514 making 612hp off the bottle with a built 60F (superior 35sp shafts and CTM joints) and a basically stock D70 rear. His setup has held up fine but Id bet he has closer to 5K in his 60F. Superior shafts and CTMs will run you close to 2k alone if you can wait for them. To answer your question YES a D60/70 built correctly will handle 44s and 600hp. To continue to answer your question YES rocks would be the next step when the 60/70 fails.


Im all for you doing this but....

bring 20k to the table or dont bring any at all.

 

if you get them v treads youll have enough hp to spin them but they do grip real good, which means more stress on your D60 front, you can get a set of 2.5tons for around $1200, sometimes cheaper if you find the right deal, or just get an old 6x6, pull the axles you want and part out/scrap the rest then you have your axles, just saying youre eventually gunna break something in the D60 and youre gunna want to upgrade to more beef parts which=$$$$ you could just get yourself some 2.5tons and be done with it, just my .02

 

i can understand the weight issue......but your building a heavy truck anyways.....and you want weight for a tug......

disc brakes do NOT cost a lot.......

you can break it first just fine......but with that much gumption, you WILL break stock tons' then you will most likely break chromod tons' if you drive it hard on vtreads......

 

Just wait until you start building this rig. It sounds all perfect on paper, but once the build starts your going to have to re-think your budget.

 

In this day & age I wouldn't go into debt over it. Maby start watching ebay, etc ? Trucks like you want are going cheep anymore. Let someone else take the beating. I'd probably be speaking for most everyone on here saying: We own our trucks outright and upgrade as disposable income comes in. Rember if you ever want out you will most likely be looking at pennies on the doller for your investment. Sad but very true.

 

If i remember right pro is making is 612 naturally aspirated, and he's currently running a 200 shot witch puts him over 800hp. Point is, proberly built the 60/70 combo can in fact handle it. Besides, from what ive read on pirate chromly 60 axles are way stronger than 2.5 rockweel axles stock. so there you have it.

 

Yeah but a D60 built to handle those tires with that amount of hp (including chromoly axles)= $$$$$ you could just get a 2.5 ton axle that should handle that abuse for alot less, then if it breaks either just get replacements, or some beef aftermarket shafts, youll end up spending more money on the D60 than a set of rocks basically.

 

you read wrong........the STRONGEST chromo's (superior or longfield cv's, i forget) are not much more then a stock rock........and they also cost a bunch of money......

 

yup!

D60s are expensive but axles with square tubes usually come with straight rainbow stickers.

 

nope, I want back and checked. The high end chromo 60 axles like superior are significantly stronger than a rockwell stock axle. but yea, things like tubes and espeically knuckles are way weaker on the 60s then the rockwells, and of course rockwells are cheaper stock than built 60s.

Just out of curiousity though, has anybody with a built 60 and a heavy foot like pro, ivan, or fishy actually broke their knuckle? It seems like the axle shaft itself it was lets go(or the joint) and in that regard the moly 60 is stronger than stock rockwell.

 

are you asking if anyone here has broke a stock KP D60 knuckle? To my knowledge no. Knuckle breakage is usually due to full hydro and 44"+ tires. Fishy went to bling daddy dedenbear knuckles when he started his full hydro build but its not finished yet. I dont see how a heavy foot could break even a factory knuckle.

The weak link on stock 60s are the 30sp stubs or the locking hubs. The weak link on 35sp 4340 60s are usually the U joint or hubs. With superior shafts CTM joints and drive flanges the R&P is the weak link.

 

I totally agree. Ive yet to see somebody break their 60/70 r&p due to sheer abuse, and not it being set up wrong.

I wont argue that you can be into 2.5's for cheaper, but there are a sure lot of hardcore guys doing well on teh built one tons.

 

it happens but not in mud with 44" or smaller tires.

guys who play on the rocks break all types of weird chit that mud trucks never break.