Ok guys, I've searched the threads to no avail, but I'm just about at the point of putting the weatherstrip on the cab, and I've run into a technique sort of question.

Now, I've already placed the strip into position, as per the Dennis Carpenter directions with the split at the bottom center of the door (which leaves about 6" of extra material). As near as I can tell, the rubber flange sits flush on the floor, and then fits over the lip once the door frame makes its turn upward. After that, then the strip seems to just sit over the flange, and slides into position all along the frame until it makes its turn back onto the floor, where I assume the rubber lip sits flush again.

My question is: Do you apply the adhesive to both sides of the flange along the door frame, or to just the inside?

I just got done installing the on-door weatherstrip, and with the way the weather is today (90+ and sunny), that adhesive begins to kick almost immediately, which makes me think that sliding the weatherstrip over the flange with adhesive on both sides, would be damned near impossible. So, do I just apply to one side, and press into position and hold with tape, and once cured, pry up the other side and use adhesive then?

Input would be appreciated.

 

The adhesive goes on the outside of the mounting strip on the body. You will probably be able to see the remnants of the old glue there. You CAN apply it to the other side too, but I don't think it came from the factory that way.
I used black RTV from the home improvement store instead of the regular adhesive. One big tube was $3 and it did both doors. It cured slowly enough that there was time to make minor adjustments. A helper is a good idea to tear off 6" tape strips and have them ready for you to put on every foot or so. Then, when you get it cut to length and fitted at the bottom, you can put the sill plate back on.
The u-shaped part at the back of the weatherstrip, that goes over the metal mounting strip on the top and sides, will go straight out and under the sill plate at the bottom. Apply the adhesive to the floor between the sill plate mounting holes and the edge of the floor.
After you have it in place and secured with tape, you can gently close the door on the weatherstrip and let it cure overnight, then you should be good to go.

 

Hi,

Just read the thread you replied to about weatherstripping and I'm having a bit of trouble getting my door to close after the rubber is installed.

I found that if I pulled it back out along the bottom, the top sealed ok and the door still closed. I'm not sure if it's installed correctly along the bottom, I just siliconed it on and taped it down, forced the door closed. Should it fit this tightly, or could it be that I need to readjust the door?

Thanks

sr

 

Not sure if you were wanting feedback from me, but here's my $.02...

The door will be more difficult to close, but not so much that it takes an inordinate amount of pressure. From my experience, you won't be able to just press it closed anymore, but it will have to be closed with a little bit of force. I'm not talking about flat out slamming the door, but just a bit of firm pressure.

As for the strip along the bottom of the door, I was a bit confused about how it was supposed to attach, as it seemed there was no flange that the strip just slipped over like the rest of the door. So, what I figured was that the interior side of the strip was supposed to lay flat along the floor line, and the outer portion is attached to the vertical portion of that line. So, in essence, your strip is opened to a 90 degree angle along the floor. The flat portion of it may partially obscure the screw holes for the scuff plate, but that's not a big deal as the screws will go straight through that stuff. Anyway, if you glued the entire strip to the vertical floor frame, perhaps that's where the problem is....if you did it like I did, and you're still having a problem, perhaps you need to adjust your striker plate a touch.

Does the door align properly when closed? If so, then the plate isn't the problem, but if the door is sucked in just slightly, you can adjust the striker plate out a hair, and it will probably solve your problem.

Those are about the best guesses I have this morning with no caffeine.

 

Thanks Behemoth...

That was EXACTLY the trouble. Once I layed the section that runs along the bottom of the cab flat and glued the crap out of it, the door shuts with firm pressure and seals nicely. The aluminum door sill holds down the carpet and the rubber just right and it looks great.

Thanks for the tip...I'm almost done with my restoration.

I'll post some pics soon.

sr