gluing window felt, help!
#31
the beads from restor specialities are all too big.. now that I am back at this task..
anyone use butyl caulk as the adhesive? I know it sticks to anything... but will it hold by itself?
the back of the felt strip is a rubber/tar like compound.. so I would guess that steel (metal to metal) adhesives might not work here..
got to get this glass installed..
sam
anyone use butyl caulk as the adhesive? I know it sticks to anything... but will it hold by itself?
the back of the felt strip is a rubber/tar like compound.. so I would guess that steel (metal to metal) adhesives might not work here..
got to get this glass installed..
sam
#32
Is it possible to crimp a U-shaped piece over the felt and the edge of the window opening? I'm think something like the snap-in clips used at the rear, but just squeeze them over the door flange. I can't think of an adhesive better than 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive. They make a Super Strong version for exterior belt-line trim.
#33
Is it possible to crimp a U-shaped piece over the felt and the edge of the window opening? I'm think something like the snap-in clips used at the rear, but just squeeze them over the door flange. I can't think of an adhesive better than 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive. They make a Super Strong version for exterior belt-line trim.
at least on one piece I have test installed, using the supplied clips puts the bead below the window edge.. so I'll have to rely on adhesive to hold these in place..
sam
#34
Sam,
So what exactly did you end up doing to affix the window felt and how well has it worked?
Cause I'm almost there myself...
Actually I'm tackling the flat glass mod tomorrow and after viewing both your galleries related to the subject and this thread, I'm wondering if you have any more advise before I dive in.
(Will be using some sort of angle iron for the new inner edge since MF didn't have the piece and couldn't give a useful answer as to when they might or if they ever would)
So - any tips?
Thanks,
So what exactly did you end up doing to affix the window felt and how well has it worked?
Cause I'm almost there myself...
Actually I'm tackling the flat glass mod tomorrow and after viewing both your galleries related to the subject and this thread, I'm wondering if you have any more advise before I dive in.
(Will be using some sort of angle iron for the new inner edge since MF didn't have the piece and couldn't give a useful answer as to when they might or if they ever would)
So - any tips?
Thanks,
#35
Sam,
So what exactly did you end up doing to affix the window felt and how well has it worked?
Cause I'm almost there myself...
Actually I'm tackling the flat glass mod tomorrow and after viewing both your galleries related to the subject and this thread, I'm wondering if you have any more advise before I dive in.
(Will be using some sort of angle iron for the new inner edge since MF didn't have the piece and couldn't give a useful answer as to when they might or if they ever would)
So - any tips?
Thanks,
So what exactly did you end up doing to affix the window felt and how well has it worked?
Cause I'm almost there myself...
Actually I'm tackling the flat glass mod tomorrow and after viewing both your galleries related to the subject and this thread, I'm wondering if you have any more advise before I dive in.
(Will be using some sort of angle iron for the new inner edge since MF didn't have the piece and couldn't give a useful answer as to when they might or if they ever would)
So - any tips?
Thanks,
I used some folded cardboard box wedges in the window space to hold the strips against the door til they dried (I waited 3 days)..
Sam
#38
Sam,
Wasn't looking forward to this job and it just got worse. The motor on my 60 gallon compressor just crapped out. Look's like I'll lose about a day and half of my working on the truck vacation to that....plus a couple of hundred dollars as well......
It's always darkest before it's pitch black...
Wasn't looking forward to this job and it just got worse. The motor on my 60 gallon compressor just crapped out. Look's like I'll lose about a day and half of my working on the truck vacation to that....plus a couple of hundred dollars as well......
It's always darkest before it's pitch black...
#39
I ended up using weatherstrip adhesive, black. this stuff is incredible when dry. I used painters tape to protect the paint. I still have to clean off a little that bulged up onto the bead. not much, but enough you can see the effect (not straight line) when you look at the door.
I used some folded cardboard box wedges in the window space to hold the strips against the door til they dried (I waited 3 days)..
Sam
I used some folded cardboard box wedges in the window space to hold the strips against the door til they dried (I waited 3 days)..
Sam
Charlie
#40
I put the MF one piece curved glass kit into my 55. (see gallery)
Now that the painting is all done, its time to install it for real, including the window bottom felts.
the back edge (mid window backward) is easy, as there are clips that snap into the stock slots to hold the felt in the right place.. (they have the little polished bead along the edge)..
the problem is the front section, where no clips exist. MF says they have to be glued in.. but seems like I need 3 sets of hands, and a lot of luck..
1. the felt strips are longer than the window opening, and curve up, following the window opening space
2. they need to fit behind the vertical window felts that go in last.
3. the little bead has to be flattened (hammer they say) to fit behind the vertical felt (with bead)
4. the bottom of the window opening is NOT 100% straight line, as the little dimple where the vent window upright is still there so the felt won't lay back into this dimple..
5. once you clip the back clips, there is no way to get them out without damaging the bead..
6. its hard to tell the curve to bend the felt to to match the opening space,
7. its hard to flatten the bead after installing IN the door..
ugh.. what adhesive to use? MF suggested silocone caulk. some of it will show at the vent window upright area under the bead.. (felt is black, glue should be black, right).. someone said here that silicone and clear coat paint are unhappy neighbors.. can't have that.
of course, you have to do both sides at the same time..and wedge something in the hold til the glue dries..
and I've got the pretty paint that doesn't like to be messed with..
so, I've got to tape it all off (and use cling wrap for extra protection.)
I'll take some pics, but any suggestions on strategies to attack this?
more pics in the gallery
the first is the view of the door window edge , not a clean line
second is the turn up at the front of the opening
third is holding a straight edge across the uneven part, the adhesive here will show
we SHOULD have cleaned up this edge when we did the body work on the doors. things to remember
thanks
sam
Now that the painting is all done, its time to install it for real, including the window bottom felts.
the back edge (mid window backward) is easy, as there are clips that snap into the stock slots to hold the felt in the right place.. (they have the little polished bead along the edge)..
the problem is the front section, where no clips exist. MF says they have to be glued in.. but seems like I need 3 sets of hands, and a lot of luck..
1. the felt strips are longer than the window opening, and curve up, following the window opening space
2. they need to fit behind the vertical window felts that go in last.
3. the little bead has to be flattened (hammer they say) to fit behind the vertical felt (with bead)
4. the bottom of the window opening is NOT 100% straight line, as the little dimple where the vent window upright is still there so the felt won't lay back into this dimple..
5. once you clip the back clips, there is no way to get them out without damaging the bead..
6. its hard to tell the curve to bend the felt to to match the opening space,
7. its hard to flatten the bead after installing IN the door..
ugh.. what adhesive to use? MF suggested silocone caulk. some of it will show at the vent window upright area under the bead.. (felt is black, glue should be black, right).. someone said here that silicone and clear coat paint are unhappy neighbors.. can't have that.
of course, you have to do both sides at the same time..and wedge something in the hold til the glue dries..
and I've got the pretty paint that doesn't like to be messed with..
so, I've got to tape it all off (and use cling wrap for extra protection.)
I'll take some pics, but any suggestions on strategies to attack this?
more pics in the gallery
the first is the view of the door window edge , not a clean line
second is the turn up at the front of the opening
third is holding a straight edge across the uneven part, the adhesive here will show
we SHOULD have cleaned up this edge when we did the body work on the doors. things to remember
thanks
sam
Good Luck, Bob
#41
#42
Hi Sam, If you go to page 2 on this site I gave some information to a guy named Charlie on this same subject because I just got thru doing this myself and it came out real good. As far as the jut outs where the vent window use to be I bent mine to fit that area using a small dowel to match the radius's in the jut out. I flatten the ends in a vise and pulled all the clips out also. If you take your time it will look like it came from the factory. Like I put on the other post you definitely want to use urethane glue. Let me know if you need a more detailed description.
Good Luck, Bob
Good Luck, Bob
haven't been out to the shop much lately.. work has been super busy with travel too.. the weather has been ugly for 5 months too, and my back 4 acres are now a mosh pit and the beauty is trapped in the shop.
(gotta build a road now!)..
Sam
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