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I put the MF one piece curved glass kit into my 55. (see gallery)
Now that the painting is all done, its time to install it for real, including the window bottom felts.
the back edge (mid window backward) is easy, as there are clips that snap into the stock slots to hold the felt in the right place.. (they have the little polished bead along the edge)..
the problem is the front section, where no clips exist. MF says they have to be glued in.. but seems like I need 3 sets of hands, and a lot of luck..
1. the felt strips are longer than the window opening, and curve up, following the window opening space
2. they need to fit behind the vertical window felts that go in last.
3. the little bead has to be flattened (hammer they say) to fit behind the vertical felt (with bead)
4. the bottom of the window opening is NOT 100% straight line, as the little dimple where the vent window upright is still there so the felt won't lay back into this dimple..
5. once you clip the back clips, there is no way to get them out without damaging the bead..
6. its hard to tell the curve to bend the felt to to match the opening space,
7. its hard to flatten the bead after installing IN the door..
ugh.. what adhesive to use? MF suggested silocone caulk. some of it will show at the vent window upright area under the bead.. (felt is black, glue should be black, right).. someone said here that silicone and clear coat paint are unhappy neighbors.. can't have that.
of course, you have to do both sides at the same time..and wedge something in the hold til the glue dries..
and I've got the pretty paint that doesn't like to be messed with..
so, I've got to tape it all off (and use cling wrap for extra protection.)
I'll take some pics, but any suggestions on strategies to attack this?
more pics in the gallery
the first is the view of the door window edge , not a clean line
second is the turn up at the front of the opening
third is holding a straight edge across the uneven part, the adhesive here will show
we SHOULD have cleaned up this edge when we did the body work on the doors. things to remember
thanks
Wish we were close I would offer an extra set of hands, but unfortunatly that is about all you would benefit from me on that one. good luck with it.
Josh
3m offers an outstanding product called weatherstrip adhesive...real sticky stuff ,dries to a hard finish...Black or Yellow colors last time I checked....ask for "gorilla-snot" at the local parts place...they'll know what your looking for.
3m offers an outstanding product called weatherstrip adhesive...real sticky stuff ,dries to a hard finish...Black or Yellow colors last time I checked....ask for "gorilla-snot" at the local parts place...they'll know what your looking for.
Yep...the BLACK 3M stuff is the best.....it helps to scuff the smooth glossy surface for adhesion.....But Geeeez Im glad I can NOW see the importance of bondo-ing up to a straight edge in that highly visible (at least...if you actually drive it) spot!!!talk to yer painter about the feasability of a bondo and spot repair...just on that lip.....I know with that gourgeous Kandy it'll never be perfect....but MAY stand out less than a black wave?????or possibly...you could tape off and paint an EVEN satin black line as thin as possible along the ENTIRE window edge???Maybe incorporate it into a Black n Silver window edge pinstripe design???
I can tell you silicone won't hold it. I tried that on my 48. I finally gave up on using the kit window felt. Every time I rolled the window up and down a few times it would pull it loose. Right now I have no felt in mine and the windows rattle like a son-of-a-gun. I don't know if it will work or look right but I am going back to stock felts. They won't be long enough but they will stay in place since thye snap in and should keep the windows from rattling. If I knew about this problem beforehand I would never have converted to one-piece windows...
Did you flatten the ends of the felts where they curve up? The ends need to fit behind the vertical channels so they need to be flat so they don't force the vertical channels inward and pinch the glass. Maybe you could use the black 3M Seam Sealer material in the recessed areas behind the felts after you install them? Always the details that kill you.
.But Geeeez Im glad I can NOW see the importance of bondo-ing up to a straight edge in that highly visible (at least...if you actually drive it) spot!!! talk to yer painter about the feasability of a bondo and spot repair...just on that lip.....I know with that gourgeous Kandy it'll never be perfect....but MAY stand out less than a black wave?????or possibly...you could tape off and paint an EVEN satin black line as thin as possible along the ENTIRE window edge???Maybe incorporate it into a Black n Silver window edge pinstripe design???
remember, I painted the underside of the fenders too!.. what does visible mean!
I can tell you silicone won't hold it. I tried that on my 48. I finally gave up on using the kit window felt. Every time I rolled the window up and down a few times it would pull it loose. Right now I have no felt in mine and the windows rattle like a son-of-a-gun. I don't know if it will work or look right but I am going back to stock felts. They won't be long enough but they will stay in place since thye snap in and should keep the windows from rattling. If I knew about this problem beforehand I would never have converted to one-piece windows...
do you mean the vertical felts don't hold? mine has a clip at the bottom of the stock rear channel.. Intend to use weatherstrip adhesive on the front channel back as well as around the glass.. this door edge is the worrisome area. Just wish I had seen (as in paid attention) it before
Did you flatten the ends of the felts where they curve up? The ends need to fit behind the vertical channels so they need to be flat so they don't force the vertical channels inward and pinch the glass. Maybe you could use the black 3M Seam Sealer material in the recessed areas behind the felts after you install them? Always the details that kill you.
I haven't yet, but know I have to flatten.. trying to get all the requirements met in one fitting is the killer..
I'm almost thinking of tossing these felts for ones without the bead. Cause I KNOW something is gonna show..(ugly)
do you mean the vertical felts don't hold? mine has a clip at the bottom of the stock rear channel.. Intend to use weatherstrip adhesive on the front channel back as well as around the glass.. this door edge is the worrisome area. Just wish I had seen (as in paid attention) it before
Sam
Sam, I am referring to the "dew wipes", "fuzzies", or whatever you want to call them. The window channel was not a problem...regular silcone held those in place just fine.
Thanks Vern, mine snap in in the back in the stock holes, 3 clips per strip. the bad part is the front where the vent windows were.
I should have paid more attention to the fitment here, but lack of experience and being on the bleeding edge hurt. The re-inforcements that I had to slice to make the opening could have been better positioned for gluing surface, maybe even a tiny tack screw below the felt edge... don't know how I can fix em now..
maybe a small pair of welding panel clamps with a wide flat face. Have to be careful not to bend the door and crack the paint.
and the painter taped off too near the edge, wished he'd have gone that 1/4 in further over into the channel space.
Spooky!My buddy is doing the exact same job on my Panel as I write.I wonder if he's gonna face the same headaches.I'll pick his brains to see if he has any tips he can pass on.Good luck to both of us I guess!
Sam, just an idea for that "tricky" bump your talking about.
Maybe you could form a small piece of sheetmetal to fit in the area to take up the space, and use one of the new panel bonding materials or 2-part epoxy to secure it...even a couple of clips may work....keep at it.....