After reviewing every post I could find on installing new anti-rattle kits and speaking to several of you fine folks, I tried unsucessfully to get past the installation of the fuzzies. So, I came up with a system that worked for me and finished the total installation today which took about 4 hours for both doors. Here is what I did:

First, I used a Dennis Carpenter kit with new division bars on my '50 F-1. After previously destroying the fuzzy clips, I ordered 30 new clips from John's F-Funhundreds so I would have plenty. Here are my steps...

1. Started with freshly painted doors and taped all surfaces that could be scratched. This included the access opening, the areas where the fuzzies are placed into the doors and the areas where the vent windows slide in. Note, I also taped and marked all areas that would need to have screws reinstalled or new screws installed.

2. Next I test fit the vent window before the seal was applied to make sure the screw holes were aligned or redrilled if necessary. You will not be able to drill the front hole after the vent window is installed.

3. Next I installed the vent windows in the doors.

4. I then put the division bar in the door and test fit it against the vent window. After that I let the bar sit in the door out of the way.

5. The next step was to install the window channel and cut and fastened it everyplace but where the top of the division bar will be installed. Make sure you properly seat the metal clip on the channel piece into the door channel groove.

6. Then came the fuzzies. Follow me closely on this and do not try to rush it. First, cut the fuzzy to fit between the window channel and the division bar. Then mark the location of the clip holes on the tape applied earlier. Make a wood jig with a hole drilled to fit the clip dimple and make sure each fuzzy is bent or adjusted to fit the door properly. I put tape of the fuzzy as well to facilitate marking the location of the of each clip. Then I positioned the clip nearest the division bar and used the jig to hammer down the clip onto the fuzzy. I then measured and marked the next clip location and attached each clip to the fuzzy after verifying the measurement. This takes time but do not take shortcuts. Accuracy is everything.

Now, here is what I did different. During my failed attempt to install them the first time, I could not get them to install properly in every hole. This time I applied contact cement to the surfaces on the inside of the door and fuzzies where they mate. Not too much!! Once they dried, I started to install each fuzzy starting with the clip at the division bar and working toward the dreaded curve. I made a thin wood support piece with non-slip padding to hold on the external surface of the doors. I applied tape to channel locks the then carefully squeezed one clip at a time making sure I kept a thin piece of wood between the cemented surfaces. I did the handle side first and then the exterior side. The only area where it became too tight to work was the last two clips on the exterior fuzzy. I wedged that in using wood door shims but could have used the channel locks if I had ground down the top jaw some. I would do this if I did this repeatedly. Please note, the contact cement only helps keep everything cleanly aligned. The clips keeps the fuzzies properly installed.

7. I forgot to mention that I did all my work with the door off and on a worktable. Next I put the glass with the lift channel installed in the bottom of the door. I place paper between inside of the door and the glass to prevent scratching. Make sure the straight side of the lift channel tab is toward the outside. I then loosely installed the division bar at the top and placed two long thin pieces of wood between the fuzzies to act as a ramp to guide the window into the channel and between the fuzzies. Once I verified the glass moved properly thru the channel, I left it in the up position.

8. Next I installed the door latch mechanism. No rocket science here.

9. Next came the window regulator with in the 2/3rds down position. Keep in mind that the arms go between the inner door and the division bar. This was somewhat challenging for me but an extra pair of hands helped. I tightened moderately and installed the lift channel tabs onto the regulator pivot arms. I did not have felt washers so I used nylon. They worked fine.

10. I then adjusted the division bar and tested the window travel. Tightened all the screws and removed the protective tape.

11.. Installed the door and window handles and the door lock cylinder and voila---was done.

Maybe I was lucky but I the glass install went smoothly between the fuzzies and I did not have a scratch on any surface. Can't tell you how glad I am to be done and the doors look great. Now for the door seals!!!!

Good luck and I hope this helps someone.

 

Its going to help me. Thanks a ton man. Thats one of my future projects. ( as if I dont have enough to do ) Mine are gone with the wind. Most appreciated. John

 

I just recently gutted my doors, and now have the body work done, and they are primed. Will color paint this spring. Then assemble.
I have printed out your post and stuck it in my notebook.

THANKS

 

Excellent write up!!

This should help alot of people. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

I'm several years away from having to mess with it but I will definately save these steps.

Bobby