after market cooling fan
#1
#3
I did an electric fan conversion on mine, it keeps it cool at about 190 in the Hot southern Texas sun. On days when the temperature is over 100 and I'm at long stop lights, it can get to 195. Running a 195 thermostat. The stock cooling system should be enough to keep yours cool because the 300 does not take much cooling power. If you're running hot, something is wrong. The only reason I did this conversion was because I didn't like giant fan blades spinning in a huge unprotected space, and I love any electrical project.
#5
It goes on when the temperature gets to 185, and will shut back off if the temperature drops below 175. It uses a relay and a temperature sending unit. The relay coil is powered off hot-in-run, and grounds through the sending unit, which threads into the water pump. The sending unit "closes" when it gets hot enough. The relay contacts run straight off the battery with an inline fuse. Works great.
#7
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#8
Here is a link to the sensor I used:
Be Cool 75029 - Be Cool Electric Fan Sending Units - summitracing.com
The fan I used was aftermarket. I doubt you'll be able to find a way to do this for under $50, especially if you want an automatic fan (you shouldn't have the fan on all the time anyway). The fan ran me about $100. Temperature sending units are pretty expensive for what they do as well. Plus you'll also need a relay and materials for brackets\wiring\etc. The whole project will probably run you between $150 and $200 depending on what fan you use and how you make your brackets. You can get really cheap fans at parts stores, but they are usually poor quality and they are the through-core mounting type (you really don't want to use those because they will tear up your radiator). I had to go with a relatively thin fan, because since the 300 is such a long motor, I didn't have much clearance between my water pump and radiator.
You will also need a way to attach it to the radiator properly. The fan I used had brackets extending out as you can see in the picture above. I still had to fabricate mounting brackets to secure the fan's brackets to the sides of my radiator. These radiators are huge (mine is for a 79). Here are the drawings I used for my brackets. They are custom for the specific fan I used so this is just an example. You will have to measure for your specific setup.
Be Cool 75029 - Be Cool Electric Fan Sending Units - summitracing.com
The fan I used was aftermarket. I doubt you'll be able to find a way to do this for under $50, especially if you want an automatic fan (you shouldn't have the fan on all the time anyway). The fan ran me about $100. Temperature sending units are pretty expensive for what they do as well. Plus you'll also need a relay and materials for brackets\wiring\etc. The whole project will probably run you between $150 and $200 depending on what fan you use and how you make your brackets. You can get really cheap fans at parts stores, but they are usually poor quality and they are the through-core mounting type (you really don't want to use those because they will tear up your radiator). I had to go with a relatively thin fan, because since the 300 is such a long motor, I didn't have much clearance between my water pump and radiator.
You will also need a way to attach it to the radiator properly. The fan I used had brackets extending out as you can see in the picture above. I still had to fabricate mounting brackets to secure the fan's brackets to the sides of my radiator. These radiators are huge (mine is for a 79). Here are the drawings I used for my brackets. They are custom for the specific fan I used so this is just an example. You will have to measure for your specific setup.
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FastMatt
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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06-20-2014 10:05 PM