Shocking clunk
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Eagle River, Alaska
Shocking clunk
I went under the passenger side of my rig today, to check on the front cab to frame mount. The last couple of winters I've gotten a one time clunk from what seems to be the passenger foot well area about 1 & half min. into warm up, from say ten degrees and colder. Not to be heard again, till the next cold morning.
I realize the bolt needs to be tightened from inside under the carpet, but just thought I'd check for signs of looseness . I did find, no visible sign of compression in lower rubber isolator and a shift ring, or clean wear area around its base on the frame ear. So I'll be tightening that soon. Is 60lb, the recommended torque?
The winter only clunk seemed this spring, to become a clunk that, as of late has been set off by road irregularities. Not every bump, but any sharp seam or pothole.(only with the radio off)I joke, sorry. So today After reading many threads, I searched.
I also found another issue though. The steering stabilizer body eyelet moves up and down about 1/8 of an inch on the mounting bolt, between the mounting ears. The bolt shows no signs of being loose other than this and is not moving in the mount. The shock body also moves about a 16th side to side by hand, with only minor hydraulic resistance. It seems abit much, to ask the mounting bolt to take up that much clearance vertically, and the shock eyelet bushings side clearance on the mounting bolt seams way loose. Surly this should all be tight and rotate only by the rubber bushing with steel inner bushing captured solid by mounting ears, ? Not much sign of leakage from shaft seal though, maybe dime size and the shaft doesn't show leakage, but the rig just turned 70thou., so internally its probably toast.
I am thinking about Pro comp 3000s for this mostly street rig. Do they make a decent steering stabilizer, Are dual stabilizers any good for street use or are they so dampening that they cause other components to where more quickly do to resistance.
Sorry for the long read, but do ya think the stabilizer is the recent (since spring,) clunk, audible in the cab. The loose mount is on the pass. side?
Thanks. XL
I realize the bolt needs to be tightened from inside under the carpet, but just thought I'd check for signs of looseness . I did find, no visible sign of compression in lower rubber isolator and a shift ring, or clean wear area around its base on the frame ear. So I'll be tightening that soon. Is 60lb, the recommended torque?
The winter only clunk seemed this spring, to become a clunk that, as of late has been set off by road irregularities. Not every bump, but any sharp seam or pothole.(only with the radio off)I joke, sorry. So today After reading many threads, I searched.
I also found another issue though. The steering stabilizer body eyelet moves up and down about 1/8 of an inch on the mounting bolt, between the mounting ears. The bolt shows no signs of being loose other than this and is not moving in the mount. The shock body also moves about a 16th side to side by hand, with only minor hydraulic resistance. It seems abit much, to ask the mounting bolt to take up that much clearance vertically, and the shock eyelet bushings side clearance on the mounting bolt seams way loose. Surly this should all be tight and rotate only by the rubber bushing with steel inner bushing captured solid by mounting ears, ? Not much sign of leakage from shaft seal though, maybe dime size and the shaft doesn't show leakage, but the rig just turned 70thou., so internally its probably toast.
I am thinking about Pro comp 3000s for this mostly street rig. Do they make a decent steering stabilizer, Are dual stabilizers any good for street use or are they so dampening that they cause other components to where more quickly do to resistance.
Sorry for the long read, but do ya think the stabilizer is the recent (since spring,) clunk, audible in the cab. The loose mount is on the pass. side?
Thanks. XL 
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Rexburg ID
I'm guessing your cab mount could've gotten a little more loose. you could use a big breaker bar and not worry about over tightening the bolt. it has loctite on it from the factory, so you'll need quite a bit of force to overcome the loctite. if the clunk continues check bushings on spring ends, sway bars, and track bar. I'd lean mostly toward the sway bar bushings, they tend to wear out on a regular basis. It could also be an improperly tightened spring bolt if the front is leaf sprung- 04 and older. if the spring bolts have been messed with, or if a lift is on you should loosen the spring bolts with full weight load on the truck. Then re-tighten the nuts, keeping the bolts stationary. some junior lift installers tighten spring bolts when the suspension is relaxed, so when it's compressed the bushings bind and sometimes pop. good luck.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,863
Likes: 4
From: Airdrie Alberta
When the cold weather clunk happened were your vents set to defrost? all the superduties I've been in(all diesel) clunk when left in defrost and started on a cold morning. As for the new clunk, check your front sway bar bushings where against the axle, mine is clunking and I know they are worn, just waiting on replacements to come in now/
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 84
From: Wake Forest, NC
For the body mount. The torque spec is less critical, but there is the possibility of shearing off the threads in the lower part. I did that to mine because of noises, but after tightening the passenger side and replacing the (now) busted driver side I did notice a difference in pops and squeeks.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Eagle River, Alaska
I ordered a new stabilizer yesterday. As well as shocks. Looks like Skyjackers, N8060s rear-N8023s front-7099W Is the stabilizer # . I thought about Pro Comp units but a stabilizer # I couldn't find , and no one local had em. Thanks for your replies.
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