460 no restart
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460 no restart
I've got a 78 F-250 with a 460. Recently rebuilt, maybe 2 miles on it, and maybe 2 hours of running time. I have a starting problem, I have one 24 series battery, running 14 degrees of timing. If you start the truck the first time it will go fine, turn over strong etc, and will run, if you turn it off to do something else, try and refire the truck, it drags the starter and seems like it has a dead battery, while the truck is running I've checked the alt output it ranges from 13.2-13.7 v, but once you try to start it again it drags and won't start. I've tried two starters, a 3152 style, which uses the starter solenoid on the firewall, and now I'm using a GM style with solenoid on top of starter and using the fender well solenoid, any suggestions, I've also got brand new cables believe there 4/0, 3 ground cables, MSD ignition, and if you back the timing down it doesn't help. Any help is appreciated.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
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From: Hesperia, CA
You don't say anything about the battery. Usually this kind of a problem relates to the engine being grounded to the frame and the battery improperly. You replaced the cables so that should eliminate this possibility. The alternator should be putting 14.4 Volts into the battery at higher rpm's 13.7 volts is a little low. Is it possible that the battery is low? The engine could be tightening up enough after warm up, if the engine isn't broken in yet, causing it to drag a low battery down enough to cause this problem.
I would put a charger on the existing battery or try another battery.
I would put a charger on the existing battery or try another battery.
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wb6vvv,
Thanks for the reply. Yes I've replaced the battery quite a few times now, I work at a parts store so its not a big deal, but it still hasn't helped. My 13.7 is while the engine is idling, I didn't tack it up to see if it was higher, I just noticed it wasn't 12v, being just the battery. I do have many grounds on the cab, frame, and manifold, but which would you suggest. I've got a ground coming from the manifold to the firewall. A giant 2'' strap coming from the engine to the frame, and I believe that's it. Any recommendations? Maybe i'm set-up wrong.
hotrodmerc, Also thank you for a reply.
At first I had the newer style 3152 starter w/no solenoid on top, it was drawing 5 amps while starting, replaced it with a GM style starter and its drawing 2 amps while starting.
Anything else I'm like missing?
Thanks for the reply. Yes I've replaced the battery quite a few times now, I work at a parts store so its not a big deal, but it still hasn't helped. My 13.7 is while the engine is idling, I didn't tack it up to see if it was higher, I just noticed it wasn't 12v, being just the battery. I do have many grounds on the cab, frame, and manifold, but which would you suggest. I've got a ground coming from the manifold to the firewall. A giant 2'' strap coming from the engine to the frame, and I believe that's it. Any recommendations? Maybe i'm set-up wrong.
hotrodmerc, Also thank you for a reply.
At first I had the newer style 3152 starter w/no solenoid on top, it was drawing 5 amps while starting, replaced it with a GM style starter and its drawing 2 amps while starting.
Anything else I'm like missing?
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No, You can turn the engine over with the proper amount of resistance with a breaker bar, and when the first time you start the truck it spins the motor over smooth, its just that second time trying to get it started eh eh eh dead battery. So annoying. Thanks again.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 17
From: Hesperia, CA
The normal configuration on the 460 is to run the negative battery cable directly to the engine and there is a tab on the battery cable that screws into the fenderwell grounding it as well. Then smaller web style ground straps from the engine to firewall. This way the starter has the shortest path from the battery. Boy that must be some efficient starter at 2 amps. The solenoid pulls darn near that. I think 200 amps would be more likely.
If I remember the specs for a starter is around 170 amps no load. That is why we have 600 plus cold crank amp batteries in our vehicles. Maybe somebody on this forum has the exact specs, but this is why we have such large battery cables. You would only need number 14 battery cables if a starter only used two amps. This is a puzzling problem. It will probably be something stupidly easy when you finally figure it out. That's what makes working on cars so frustrating and fun.
If I remember the specs for a starter is around 170 amps no load. That is why we have 600 plus cold crank amp batteries in our vehicles. Maybe somebody on this forum has the exact specs, but this is why we have such large battery cables. You would only need number 14 battery cables if a starter only used two amps. This is a puzzling problem. It will probably be something stupidly easy when you finally figure it out. That's what makes working on cars so frustrating and fun.
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From: the old home place
i have the same problem and am trying a different starter today, even though the one on the truck is new (bought by PO right before he sold it to me so i can't warranty swap it. If you work at a parts store, i might try another starter. I've been told bad starters turn over slow when hot.
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