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They will bubble up and actually rust through and leak oil. The Por 15 is the way to go.
As for the shop vac trick, it works like a charm. I got my Fumoto drain valve right after I changed my oil last time and was bumming about waiting to put it on. I was willing to sacrifice some of my new oil to do it, but someone mentioned the shop vac trick and it worked like a charm. I have a rigid 5 horsepower (I think, maybe it's a 6 HP) and it pulls vacuum and keeps the oil from coming out, not a drop was spilled. Very cool.
Will the por 15 work if the pan is already bubbled? I fear mine is too far gone for anything but replacement.
I would also like to know where the op got the pan replaced for $1100, seems like a good deal actually and given my time restraints and lack of a place to do the job, I'd be happy to pay the $1100.
Will the por 15 work if the pan is already bubbled? I fear mine is too far gone for anything but replacement.
I would also like to know where the op got the pan replaced for $1100, seems like a good deal actually and given my time restraints and lack of a place to do the job, I'd be happy to pay the $1100.
Depending on the miles on your engine it would be real tough not to do rings and bearings when you've gone to the trouble of yanking the engine.
Yeah, you're correct, but at a certain point, with someone else doing the work, I have to be realistic. The big problem is the pan, it is detremental, I have 170,000miles and it runs awesome, so I really need to concentrate on the pan and maybe the up pipes, even though my stockers aren't leaking, I'd still have them done. But at a certain point, I might just as well buy a rebuilt motor and have it thrown in, if someone else is doing the work.
Will the por 15 work if the pan is already bubbled? I fear mine is too far gone for anything but replacement.
I guess it would depend how deep the rust goes. I did my oil pan a year ago with POR-15. First, I hand-sanded off all of the rust spots, some of which were 'bubbled', sanded them down to bare metal. Then I did the degrease and metal prep that came in the starter kit, followed by 2 coats of POR-15, and it's holding nicely.
Holding so nicely, in fact, that while I was doing it, I got some POR- 15 on my driveway, and that spot is still there as well. That stuff sticks hard - be careful where you get it.
For as cheap as the POR-15 Starter Kit is, it may be well worth the minimal expense to give it a shot before coughing up the bones for a new oil pan.
Huh!? an ordinary shop vac can hold vacuum on almost 4 gallons of heavy thick oil? this sounds to good to be true. explain please
Joe, The weight of the oil (in psi) is less that the vacume created by the Shop Vac. I thought it was too good to be true too and I veeeeeeery carefully took out the drain plug with a 5 gal. tub below it just in case. Got to tell you it was quite a thrill not having one single drop of oil come out and even better, the shop vac hose after I was finished was dry as a bone.
I'm not an engineer but water exerts about 1/2 lb (psi) per 1' of height. If oil weighed the same, then 1' high oil would need only about 1/2 lb of vacume to overcome its draining out. I guess the shop vac hose over the fill tube is more than 1/2 lb vacume. Maybe some engineer on this forum can explain it better but the important thing is that it works, and it works great!
Last edited by GEugeneS; May 15, 2008 at 09:19 PM.
Reason: spelling
Will the por 15 work if the pan is already bubbled? I fear mine is too far gone for anything but replacement.
I would also like to know where the op got the pan replaced for $1100, seems like a good deal actually and given my time restraints and lack of a place to do the job, I'd be happy to pay the $1100.
I had it done at a place 15 minutes from my house - i dont know if he would be willing to do it again. I would definitely say he under quoted me and underestimated the project. But its worth a shot - if you would like the name and # just throw me a PM and id be happy to give it to you. The overall quality of the work he did was fine. No problems afterwards.
Originally Posted by GEugeneS
Joe, The weight of the oil (in psi) is less that the vacume created by the Shop Vac. I thought it was too good to be true too and I veeeeeeery carefully took out the drain plug with a 5 gal. tub below it just in case. Got to tell you it was quite a thrill not having one single drop of oil come out and even better, the shop vac hose after I was finished was dry as a bone.
I'm not an engineer but water exerts about 1/2 lb (psi) per 1' of height. If oil weighed the same, then 1' high oil would need only about 1/2 lb of vacume to overcome its draining out. I guess the shop vac hose over the fill tube is more than 1/2 lb vacume. Maybe some engineer on this forum can explain it better but the important thing is that it works, and it works great!
Thats too cool! Im gonna have to try that Ill tell my buddies im like a David Blaine for diesels
As for the shop vac trick, it works like a charm. I got my Fumoto drain valve right after I changed my oil last time and was bumming about waiting to put it on. I was willing to sacrifice some of my new oil to do it, but someone mentioned the shop vac trick and it worked like a charm. I have a rigid 5 horsepower (I think, maybe it's a 6 HP) and it pulls vacuum and keeps the oil from coming out, not a drop was spilled. Very cool.
Jason, I have a Rigid as well. Don't know the hp but it draws 9A. I didn't even try to seal the hose around the fill tube. Just stuck it on loosely, let it draw air from around the tube as the tube is quite a bit smaller, and still had plenty of vacuum to hold the oil in. It was like a revelation to me when it heard you could do it this way and I've been telling all my friends since. You only need it once in a blue moon, but when you need it - you need it!
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