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need help chip install gone wrong

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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:21 PM
  #31  
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[quote=bigtimebubba;

Also any tricks for removing the 10mm screw on the firewall side. That thing is impossible to remove[/quote]

You did tighten that bolt up before you tried to start it right.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 12:15 AM
  #32  
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To be honest I don't know if I even loosened it to begin with. I tried my hardest to loosen it up but I don't think I got anywhere.

Would it not start if the screw is not completely tight?
I did push the connector into the pcm with as much force as I could muster. I'm sure it is on there fine, just the screw might not be competely tight if I did by chance get it loose.


And I will go buy a 1/4" tomorrow.
All I have is 3/8"s stuff and my hands are far to big and I'm certainly not that flexible to do it right with those.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 12:24 AM
  #33  
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I've got some pretty good sized hands and I got mine loose just fine. As stated before, 1/4" ratchet, 10mm deep socket, and a bit of skin. If it's lifted you'll prolly have to use a ladder.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 01:01 AM
  #34  
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If you didn't turn the bolt at all I wouldn't worry about it but if you did I would tighten it up you may not be getting a good connection.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 01:09 AM
  #35  
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I couldn't get my big hands in there very well either so I had a tall, skinny buddy of mine do it with a short 1/4 drive ratchet.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 09:59 AM
  #36  
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Bubba, i would definately check that the 10mm bolt is tight (bottomed out) before replacing anything. Even though you might think you are pushing the connector in by hand the thread will hold it back from locking in completely. good luck to you.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 10:21 AM
  #37  
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Definately check that bolt. If its loose, the connection wont be good at all and things wont work right. I think it might even be a ground of some kind.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 10:24 AM
  #38  
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I had the same problem when putting in a different PCM when playing with chips. With the newer PCM, I got no WTS light and it'd crank over but not start.
About the only thing that I did was clean the connections on the PCM better where the chip plugs in, that seemed to take care of it.
I was able to put my old PCM back in and it'd run, but the newer one wouldn't. After I cleaned everything for the third time I put the newer PCM in just for kicks and it worked.


Go through and double check everything, make sure all connections are clean and tight, hold your tongue just right and whisper sweet nothings to your truck and she'll start!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 11:53 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by farmb0y
I had the same problem when putting in a different PCM when playing with chips. With the newer PCM, I got no WTS light and it'd crank over but not start.
About the only thing that I did was clean the connections on the PCM better where the chip plugs in, that seemed to take care of it.
I was able to put my old PCM back in and it'd run, but the newer one wouldn't. After I cleaned everything for the third time I put the newer PCM in just for kicks and it worked.


Go through and double check everything, make sure all connections are clean and tight, hold your tongue just right and whisper sweet nothings to your truck and she'll start!
I also have an earky 99. What code is your new PCM?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 04:17 AM
  #40  
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is there power and ground to the pcm?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:13 AM
  #41  
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not sue but thought id ask...you did bolt the PCM back in under the dash correct?? reason i ask..thats where it gets its ground from..if you dont have a ground..you dont have power...also if you do get a new PCM..get one from a newer truck..like a 99.5-2000 truck ..it will make your truck run a little better and the shifts are much better..
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 11:00 AM
  #42  
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I've removed my PCM several times in the past month with a 3/8 ratchet and deepwell 10mm no problem. I stand on a step stool to get a better angle at it with my arm. I break the torque, and then just use the socket in my left hand to turn the nut.

Ron- how much better is a later PCM than what I got now? I'm already building up parts to do the turbo conversion (cheaper than D66 turbo!)
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 11:15 AM
  #43  
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from what i hear..because the new ones run a bigger turbo,pump and injectors..it ask for more fuel and air then the xle code..not sure if you feel more SOTP but just a better running truck..also the shifts are much better,,so it gets the power to the ground better...and Jody has said he can controle the shifts and tc better in his programs with a newer PCM...he likes the onse from the 99.5 to 00 trucks..i forget the codes...
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #44  
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Okay So I got it up and running today.
My original pcm was a vdh something but the pcm I bought is a xle8.
I haven't tried to install the chip again yet. I think I will send it back to diesel innovations and have it reburned for the new pcm just so everythin matches up.

The other good news is my water in fuel light is off now too! Where it was always on with the other pcm.
The reason the old pcm didn't work is because the top corner pin was bent badly, must have been in my attempt to remove it before the screw was loose, so it's shot.

All-in-all I'm happy that the truck is running again.

I do have to say that it is one of the worst locations any manufacturer could put a ecu though. Man is that thing hard to get to.


Once again thank you to everyone for helping me out with this. I'm new to diesels and ford trucks and knowing that there is this community makes me much more confident in owning this truck.
Thank you again


Bubba
 
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 11:19 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bigtimebubba
Okay So I got it up and running today.

All-in-all I'm happy that the truck is running again.
I am also glad you are up and running again. Thanks for getting back to us about your fix. This site is all about sharing knowledge and experience. Thanks for following through.
 
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