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need help chip install gone wrong

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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #16  
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The WTS light not coming on is an indicator that the PCM is not communicating either because it's not getting juice or unfortunatly it's compromised. If you can pull codes I would give that a shot before the new PCM.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:18 PM
  #17  
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K. I might buy the pcm still even as a back up. Can the dealer clear the pcm or will this inevitably be an expensive task
 
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:38 PM
  #18  
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Your WTS light should come on every time no matter how briefly. Disconnect both neg terminals of the batts and disconnect the fuel heater at the rear of the fuel bowl. While you wait, remove your PCM and check to make sure there are no bent pins.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bigtimebubba
K. I might buy the pcm still even as a back up. Can the dealer clear the pcm or will this inevitably be an expensive task
I don't know exactly what the dealer can do. If the board is fried, you will need a new PCM. Just for grins try replacing the #30 fuse it's the 30 amp fuse, I don't know the location, and unplug the fuel bowl heater. Then try to see if you get the WTS light.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #20  
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I'm a total noob when it comes to psd's and ford trucks in general.
Where is the plug for the fuel heater located?
I will unplug the neg terminals for the night.

Also any tricks for removing the 10mm screw on the firewall side. That thing is impossible to remove
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:03 AM
  #21  
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try disconnecting batterys completely and turn on head light switch or ingnition key this should clear the kam (keep alive memory) reconnect batts. and try to start it hope it works
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:06 AM
  #22  
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someone borrowed me an 80 hp chip one time, and it plain out didnt do anything.

I guess its money well spent to get proffessional help when it comes to chips and programmers.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:30 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 808 7.3
try disconnecting batterys completely and turn on head light switch or ingnition key this should clear the kam (keep alive memory) reconnect batts. and try to start it hope it works
Did both. headlight seitch and ignition key and nothing still.
Thank you for the suggestion though. Might have to get a "new" pcm. I don't really see where I did any damage though.

Anyone have advice on how to get the screw on the firewall side off?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:44 AM
  #24  
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i used a 10mm socket but took the 2 plugs off that is next to the pcm,it made it a lot easier and alot more room.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:23 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bigtimebubba
Where is the plug for the fuel heater located?
I will unplug the neg terminals for the night.

Also any tricks for removing the 10mm screw on the firewall side. That thing is impossible to remove
On the back of the fuel bowl you will see an electrical connector. This is only one just unplug that connector and try and start. Also check in your owners manual and look to see if any fuses are blown concerning PCM and fuel heater.

The trick to removing that 10MM screw is, 1/4" ratchet and alot of patience lol.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 04:28 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bigtimebubba
Anyone have advice on how to get the screw on the firewall side off?
I think I used a 3/8" drive shorty ratchet wrench. Fortunately I've got small hands so I can get down in there. It's tight, no doubt, but you need to do it, so be prepared to "give of the flesh"...
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #27  
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Man I feel like I've given enough already.
Doesn't help that the truck is lifted and that the screw is in the absolute corner of the engine bay.
Well I bought another pcm and it should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can get everything sorted out
Once again thank you for all of the help
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 07:42 PM
  #28  
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I'm starting to feel sorry for you. Get a 2' ladder and use 1/4 inch drive stuff. If I can get mine out a younger fellow can damn sure do his. 3/8 inch drive is too clumsy to use in the cramped quarters you're working with.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #29  
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my bet is the pcm will work b/c it sounds like what my truck did after having the ts chip on it bought new pcm and it fired
 
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:13 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by bigtimebubba
Man I feel like I've given enough already.
Doesn't help that the truck is lifted and that the screw is in the absolute corner of the engine bay.
Well I bought another pcm and it should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can get everything sorted out
Once again thank you for all of the help

let us know how the later PCM works for you.

It's really not that bad 1/4" ratchet 10mm deep socket, a ladder, long arms and good wrists...it will be O.K.
 
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