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The WTS light not coming on is an indicator that the PCM is not communicating either because it's not getting juice or unfortunatly it's compromised. If you can pull codes I would give that a shot before the new PCM.
Your WTS light should come on every time no matter how briefly. Disconnect both neg terminals of the batts and disconnect the fuel heater at the rear of the fuel bowl. While you wait, remove your PCM and check to make sure there are no bent pins.
K. I might buy the pcm still even as a back up. Can the dealer clear the pcm or will this inevitably be an expensive task
I don't know exactly what the dealer can do. If the board is fried, you will need a new PCM. Just for grins try replacing the #30 fuse it's the 30 amp fuse, I don't know the location, and unplug the fuel bowl heater. Then try to see if you get the WTS light.
I'm a total noob when it comes to psd's and ford trucks in general.
Where is the plug for the fuel heater located?
I will unplug the neg terminals for the night.
Also any tricks for removing the 10mm screw on the firewall side. That thing is impossible to remove
try disconnecting batterys completely and turn on head light switch or ingnition key this should clear the kam (keep alive memory) reconnect batts. and try to start it hope it works
try disconnecting batterys completely and turn on head light switch or ingnition key this should clear the kam (keep alive memory) reconnect batts. and try to start it hope it works
Did both. headlight seitch and ignition key and nothing still.
Thank you for the suggestion though. Might have to get a "new" pcm. I don't really see where I did any damage though.
Anyone have advice on how to get the screw on the firewall side off?
Where is the plug for the fuel heater located?
I will unplug the neg terminals for the night.
Also any tricks for removing the 10mm screw on the firewall side. That thing is impossible to remove
On the back of the fuel bowl you will see an electrical connector. This is only one just unplug that connector and try and start. Also check in your owners manual and look to see if any fuses are blown concerning PCM and fuel heater.
The trick to removing that 10MM screw is, 1/4" ratchet and alot of patience lol.
Anyone have advice on how to get the screw on the firewall side off?
I think I used a 3/8" drive shorty ratchet wrench. Fortunately I've got small hands so I can get down in there. It's tight, no doubt, but you need to do it, so be prepared to "give of the flesh"...
Man I feel like I've given enough already.
Doesn't help that the truck is lifted and that the screw is in the absolute corner of the engine bay.
Well I bought another pcm and it should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can get everything sorted out
Once again thank you for all of the help
I'm starting to feel sorry for you. Get a 2' ladder and use 1/4 inch drive stuff. If I can get mine out a younger fellow can damn sure do his. 3/8 inch drive is too clumsy to use in the cramped quarters you're working with.
Man I feel like I've given enough already.
Doesn't help that the truck is lifted and that the screw is in the absolute corner of the engine bay.
Well I bought another pcm and it should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can get everything sorted out
Once again thank you for all of the help
let us know how the later PCM works for you.
It's really not that bad 1/4" ratchet 10mm deep socket, a ladder, long arms and good wrists...it will be O.K.
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