previous owner of my 86 6.9 was running waste oil as fuel in the engine.. the engine is ruined...the injection pump was shot, injectors were shot and covered in carbon, cylinders LOADED with thick, nasty carbon buildup, glow plugs are covered in this same carbon crap, and do not work, the engine is weak, smokes like a freight train, and it used 3 qts of oil in less than 20 miles of driving...the rings are probably stuck from all of the carbon buildup, or worse worn prematurely from the contaminants in the waste oil sticking/melting onto everything...I have never seen a diesel engine with carbon buildup this bad. This engine only has 183K on it..i've seen some with 300-400K that have cleaner combustion chambers than this...I blame the waste oil fuel for this engines current state. I would NEVER EVER run waste oil in ANY diesel engine after seeing what it did to this 6.9..

 

Your just to funny mebe2y LOL

 

Going back to towards the beginning, it is my understanding the reason the engine runs quieter is because the injection pump is getting better lubrication than what ULSD would give it. Its pretty much the reason why guys with mechanical injected 5.9L Cummins turbo diesels run 2 stroke engine oil on ever tank of gas. The VE44 (1989-1993) and P7100 (1994-1998) run much quieter when there is better lubrication so the engine becomes quieter. I've read numerous posts on 4btswaps.com on alternative fuels like wvo and wmo and they all say filter it when refining and then put better filters on your rig and change them more frequently, to prevent problems and increase longevity.

Let's face it other than recently diesel prices have been quite expensive compared to gas some areas its cheaper, slightly more expensive or the same price. Any bit of oil (engine or waste veggie) will help in saving money if you have a decent source. Sounds like to me reading one on Powerstroke nation it was too much wmo while also running a tuner at the same time or maybe not enough filtering before the HPOP. Still your fueling your engine at your own risk.

 

I'v seen it before. Someone says oh it will run on oil? Pours nasty unfiltered came from god knows where oil in and bam.

Like most things if you do it right it won't give you problems...

I ran wmo for 6 months. About 6 thousand miles.
I took my waste oil and filtered it down to 30 microns. Mixed 50/50 with diesel and then filtered to 8 microns then to two.

Straight into tank after that.
I noticed fuel milage was +1 mpg
After calculating consistently.
It was winter and smoked pretty good until warmup.

6,000 miles went by and my glow plugs slowly quit. They ha build up. Pulled ALL 8 injectors and they were clean. Used a inspection camera and cylinders looked fine. $90 later back on the road with motorcraft/beru plugs.

Moral of the story is if you filter it right and you own an idi you will be fine.

Problem is theres a lot of small particles that pretty much make up sludge that are too small for your filter to catch and can cause build up. Solution..pay $600 and get a good centerfuge. You will be amazed at how yellow you can get black oil. Looks brand new.
Weather its atf, hydraulic oil, whatever...if your serious buy a centrifuge. They work better than any combination of filters you can buy period.

I know a few people who use them on atf and run them in cummins, 7.3psd's and such.
I personally am still building my new setup and at this time am using highway fuel from the pump. Better safe than sorry

Also wmo is not for direct injected diesels. It helps our idi's are mechanically injected but it will give you trouble in a cummins lets say. Or any other engine thats direct injected.

In direct injection creates very high heat in the prechamber which not only helps like fuel but burn it thoroughly. I'v seen 5.9 cummins injectors with devil horn shaped build up from running wmo. Maybe if you used a centrifuge and mixed it 25 oil to 75 diesel. But to make it practical and cost effective its kind of an idi thing.

 

fuel is filtered to 1 micron at the refinery, and 10 microns at the pump. you have fuel heaters for WMO?? why the factory IDI fuel heater is all I used when I ran virgin moter oil blends to 80% with out any problems. OEM fuel filters are 14 micron can be found to 4 microns Racore.. most OEM oil filters are 20 microns mobil 1 601 is 16 and 5 duel filtration for the power stroke will fit most IDI's you can't filter out the black.. and full synthetic oil burns no differently then Dino oil... install some magnets on your primary filter todays oils hold most impurity's in suspension so a settling tank will do little. a centrifuge is a good idea but expensive.. have fun don't forget ATF, is even better than WMO....

 

I've been running filtered WMO in my 12v Cummins for 6 years, which is now in my 96 F250.

I have a 32 gallon fuel tank on the truck and add 1 to 2 gallons of filtered WMO to every tank. The engine runs quieter and the idle RPMs will raise up some with it in the tank.

I like the fact that i'm getting 20 to 40 free miles to every tank of fuel.

 

Why would you buy a truck like that in the first place??

 

Sorry to dig this out, but shouldn't a magnetic transmission filter clean out metal particles?

 

Only ferrous metal particles. Most of the wear metals in the engine don’t stick to a magnet.

There are very few (none?) examples of people burning high concentrations of used motor oil in Diesel engines for a long period of time. I’ve been burning used vegetable oil in my 2001 7.3 PSD since 2005 (280k miles now) and have watched lots of WMO burners come and go and many had the gumption to report their bad experiences.

Choose wisely, or please come back and post pics of the carnage!!