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they run #1 fuel most all year in Montana with out lubricity related problems, all #1 kerosene meant for motor fuel has the same lubricity modifier as #2 diesel, just gells at a much lower themp. all newer diesels have pumps and injectors designed for ULSD. the only problem would be if the fuel was kerosene for jet fuel, witch is not really kerosene, jet A and JetA1(winter fuel) are not to be confused, with kerosene Jet A is low in btu as compared to #2, however it lights easier at altitude, if it is motor fuel it is fine, less power, starts easier in the cold.
All kerosene sold in the US as a heating oil (called stove oil) is dyed, and has the same lubricity as diesel ULSD #1 and#2, diesel # 1 is not kerosene but its very very similar. diesel #1 and #2 is sold dyed and undyed. diesel #1 is hard to find in Washington state for sale for as ON road use..however we haul it to northern BC and Montana in winter, for ON road and dyed #1 for tractors and construction equipment in the north. BP is the largest manufacturer of Jet fuel in the north west. you cant even pick up Gas at there Rack in Ferndale WA as it all go's down a pipeline to be mixed with alcohol in Seattle (AM/PM) gas. moter oil is not approved as a engine fuel.. but will combust in a diesel engine. zinc and other additives are not fully burned and could lead to a build up on valves and pistons if burned in high consternations in a moter vehical, Diesel #6 is (bunker oil) burned in ships out at sea, when 36 miles or closer they must burn a ligher oil or diesel #2 for EPA reasons, Atf is mineral oil its a more refined oil with some chemistry changed to meet hydraulic and very specific lubricity property's, to work with band type clutches, it just so happens that it to, can be combusted in a diesel engine. cetane of diesel is the inverse of octane, lower cetane is better in diesel, higher octane is better in gas, oil burns a little slower but would not necessarily test lower in cetane. synthetic oil burns just as good as Dino oil, just costs more..no moter oil is produced at any of the refinery's in WA state. they make most of that in Texas
#1 diesel/kero is common up here in Alaska as a motor fuel in the winter.
Home Heating Fuel/Kerosene/Diesel is not guaranteed to be ULSD. Big stickers warning about running it in a 2007 or newer vehicle on those pumps. Some folks could legally run it, since there is a lot of places that are not on the road system here that you can drive on. It is also non-dyed as some areas get so cold that the dyed fuel causes problems.
The cost difference isn't that great, since AK has no road taxes, so before the people start saying you could get cheaper fuel and cheat.... It isn't that much cheaper and it isn't gauranteed to be ULSD. Just Low Sulfur Fuel.
Is the warning here applicable only to the modern hipster Diesels? It was my understanding that Kero is good stuff and should burn well in old school rigs. Or maybe a Volvo or something.
When I was in the .mil there were still a very few multi-fuel Deuce and a halfs in the motor pool, that would run on gasoline or diesel, and combinations thereof. Some of the guys would always pour a can or two of ATF into their 5 tons fuel tank for a little extra somethin' somethin'. Claimed that it was clearly visible under night vision goggles coming from the stacks which trucks did this. Hm.
Old thread but yes, I would consider 1-K Kerosene and other Kerosene-based fuels (#1 Diesel, Jet-A, JP-8) as an alternative fuel of it's own category.
It will run fine in a diesel engine and in fact has very similar combustion properties to #2 diesel with a small 2-3% energy per gallon penalty. Typically winterized #2 fuel is some ratio of #2 and Kerosene to whatever is appropriate for the climate to keep the fuel from freezing. In northern latitudes you can spot #1 diesel pumps at some truck stops which is 98-99% Kerosene and 1-2% additives for lubricity and whatnot. Military and airports use JP-8 and Jet-A in diesel powered ground vehicles to simplify logistics. There are a few minor caveats...a dedicated lubricity additive like Opti-lube XL or Stanadyne Lubricity is a recommended cover-your-butt precaution especially for common rail engines with high pressure pumps that are sensitive to lubrication. Some gas stations only sell red-dyed stuff with is not allowed for road use just as with #2 red diesel. The other thing is that they typically nip you an extra $.50-1.00 per gallon over regular diesel, so there are few reasons to do this on purpose except as a cold weather precaution in winter since it stays liquid down to -40F or thereabouts.
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