hyd clutch bleeding
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 728
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you didnt mention what year model
there was a parts change but i dont remember exactly when but the replacement slave cylinder had a larger bore then the original which also required replacing the master cylinder with an increased bore that matched the two hydraulically
example updated slave cylinder with original master doenst have enough travel to properly release the clutch
an updated master cylinder combined with an original slave cylinder required the driver to have POPEYE legs to release the clutch and overtravel of the release arm
there was a parts change but i dont remember exactly when but the replacement slave cylinder had a larger bore then the original which also required replacing the master cylinder with an increased bore that matched the two hydraulically
example updated slave cylinder with original master doenst have enough travel to properly release the clutch
an updated master cylinder combined with an original slave cylinder required the driver to have POPEYE legs to release the clutch and overtravel of the release arm
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,190
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alright im diggin this thread up cause I havin big probs bleedin this thing but what im getting is I just pump the pedal forever til my clutch comes back?do I do this with the master cyl open or put the cap back on ?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Problem, you can not push enough fluid down the clutch line to fill the slave cylinder with one stroke of the master cylinder/clutch pedal.
Now if you look at the line, almost straight up to the master cylinder.
So when you let off the pedal, air goes back up the line toward the master cylinder, then you push the pedal and both air and fluid go down to the slave cylinder.
What I try to do, get enough fluid in the slave cylinder that you can stop the truck in gear without killing the motor, then fill the master cylinder full and go for a drive.
Depressing the clutch pedal while driving and hold it for a couple seconds, then release it, you may have to pull the pedal up with your toe because of the clutch assist spring.
The bumps from driving help the air work up and the fluid work down.
I have tried so many different ways of bleeding the slave it is not funny.
Driving it is the only way that always works for me.
Now if you look at the line, almost straight up to the master cylinder.
So when you let off the pedal, air goes back up the line toward the master cylinder, then you push the pedal and both air and fluid go down to the slave cylinder.
What I try to do, get enough fluid in the slave cylinder that you can stop the truck in gear without killing the motor, then fill the master cylinder full and go for a drive.
Depressing the clutch pedal while driving and hold it for a couple seconds, then release it, you may have to pull the pedal up with your toe because of the clutch assist spring.
The bumps from driving help the air work up and the fluid work down.
I have tried so many different ways of bleeding the slave it is not funny.
Driving it is the only way that always works for me.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
OK just to eliminate these two things, have someone push your pedal down while you watch the master cylinder if it moves and it doesn't take much you need to reinforce the firewall. Now if that is fine crawl under it and watch your tranny not the slave cylinder when they push the pedal if your tranny moves you have a cracked bellhousing.
I hope it is neither of these but I have had both more than once.
I hope it is neither of these but I have had both more than once.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
What always works for me is to fill the master, make sure it is fully returned, I've had to disconnect the pedal from the pushrod sometimes to do this, and then crawl under the truck and push the clutch fork and slave back(to the front of the truck) by hand slowly, bottom it out and let it slowly return to where it was resting with weight on the clutch. Do this a until you don't hear any more air in the master, then hook things back up, and 99% of the time you are merrily on your way.
That is actually Ford procedure, the shop manual calls for 10-15 cycles.
The other Ford method is plain old strange... With the slave off, it calls for removing the line from the slave, tipping it about 30 degrees, and filling it with fluid, rocking it as necessary to get all the air out, then installing it on the bellhousing.
Then you take the cap off the reservoir and have someone man the brake fluid keeping it full, and letting it run out of the line until it's clear of air, once it's clear, the you hook it up to the slave, and it should be bled... That is downright silly if you ask me.
That is actually Ford procedure, the shop manual calls for 10-15 cycles.
The other Ford method is plain old strange... With the slave off, it calls for removing the line from the slave, tipping it about 30 degrees, and filling it with fluid, rocking it as necessary to get all the air out, then installing it on the bellhousing.
Then you take the cap off the reservoir and have someone man the brake fluid keeping it full, and letting it run out of the line until it's clear of air, once it's clear, the you hook it up to the slave, and it should be bled... That is downright silly if you ask me.
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