Manual clutch question
#1
Manual clutch question
I have tried the other forum with little response so I thought I would try here.
I have a 4.9 f 150 1995 the push rod broke on the clutch master cylinder. I am trying to figure out the correct way to remove the start switch from the push rod as well as the correct method to bleed the system as well as bench bleeding the master cylinder. I have looked all over the internet without finding a satisfactory explanation. Any help is appreciated.
I have a 4.9 f 150 1995 the push rod broke on the clutch master cylinder. I am trying to figure out the correct way to remove the start switch from the push rod as well as the correct method to bleed the system as well as bench bleeding the master cylinder. I have looked all over the internet without finding a satisfactory explanation. Any help is appreciated.
#2
Bleeding a Concentric Hydraulic Clutch Set-up .: Articles Here is a link to an article on bench bleeding the master cyl and then bleeding the system.
Hopefully someone else will give info on the safety interlock switch.
Hopefully someone else will give info on the safety interlock switch.
#4
To remove the clutch safety switch.
Unplug the electrical connector so you can swivel it to get
a good look at the white colored plastic piece.
Squeeze the two locking tabs on the white plastic piece
and at the same time slide the white plastic piece in a direction
that will allow it to be removed/lifted off.
The body of the switch then can be snapped off
of the push rod.
As for bleeding the clutch you can gravity bleed it.
Remove the rubber bladder inside the clutch master cylinder.
Fill with brake fluid.
Open bleeder valve on clutch slave cylinder.
Fluid should eventually stream out of the bleeder valve.
Keep the clutch master topped off with fluid.
Put cap back on so no fluid splashes out.
Final test is to close the bleeder valve.
Pump the pedal a dozen times,
Use something like a piece of wood wedged against
the clutch pedal and the front of the seat to keep
the pedal engaged.
Crawl under the truck and slowly open the bleeder valve.
A solid stream of fluid should shoot out of the bleeder valve
with no air bubbles.
Keep doing this procedure until you're satisfied there is no air left.
When you're done, top off the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid.
*****Make sure no brake fluid gets on any painted surface because it
will damage the paint.******
Click on the link below for a picture of the clutch safety switch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10393685
Unplug the electrical connector so you can swivel it to get
a good look at the white colored plastic piece.
Squeeze the two locking tabs on the white plastic piece
and at the same time slide the white plastic piece in a direction
that will allow it to be removed/lifted off.
The body of the switch then can be snapped off
of the push rod.
As for bleeding the clutch you can gravity bleed it.
Remove the rubber bladder inside the clutch master cylinder.
Fill with brake fluid.
Open bleeder valve on clutch slave cylinder.
Fluid should eventually stream out of the bleeder valve.
Keep the clutch master topped off with fluid.
Put cap back on so no fluid splashes out.
Final test is to close the bleeder valve.
Pump the pedal a dozen times,
Use something like a piece of wood wedged against
the clutch pedal and the front of the seat to keep
the pedal engaged.
Crawl under the truck and slowly open the bleeder valve.
A solid stream of fluid should shoot out of the bleeder valve
with no air bubbles.
Keep doing this procedure until you're satisfied there is no air left.
When you're done, top off the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid.
*****Make sure no brake fluid gets on any painted surface because it
will damage the paint.******
Click on the link below for a picture of the clutch safety switch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10393685
#5
I've found a quick way to bleed clutch slave cylinders (that you can access from outside the bellhousing) is to open the bleed nipple, then squeeze the slave shut with a pair of pliers (big ones) then close the nipple, and let the slave expand on it's own. This will draw bubble free fluid down from the master. Make sure the master doesn't empty while you are doing this. It also helps to remove the slave from the bellhousing.
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