I order a Valair smf clutch kit , gona do the install in the driveway anyone here have advive on what is the best way to do this?

Should I separate the tranny from the transfer case or take it down as a unit?

How do I support the motor when I pull the tranny out?

The rear main is that easy to replace , does not leak now but maybe just do it cause I there?

Is this a one day job?


Ive done a number of clutches but never on a diesel or 4X4 , any advice or links is appreciated..........

 

I feel for ya, If you can get another set of hands it would be alot easier.

I would remove the x-fer case, it makes the trans stay balanced on the trans jack. I hope you have one of those.

The rear main seal is a good idea even though they don't usually go bad. I like the replacement seal that comes with a wear ring. Can't remember if they all come that way or not. It can be tough to remove and install the wear ring without the right tools but doable. Be sure not to let the lip on the seal flip over when installing.

There's a few more tips that others will jump in here with. I've not done the dual to single conversion.

 

Hey Jim have ya ever taken off a transfer case, do they just unbolt and take down? I am totally tooled up for the job except maybe what ever is needed for the rear main I will also have a rental tranny jack. Ive never taken a transfer case off, looks heavy but simple.........

 

Yep it just unbolts and slides back off the output shaft. I would lower the trans and x-fer case to access the top bolts, IIRC they are in a pocket that makes them difficult to swing the wrench...hits the bottom of the cab floor. A ratcheting box wrench may be handy.

 

Ya, especially as heavy as i would assume that manual is, i would separate the transfer case first.

 

Hey Jaak, I think it was "Plowhand" member had a nice post to me a few weeks back with a step by step, I printed it and since lost it. Maybe you could find it on a search? Jay

 

Here's one from Plowhand, same info I think........
bkcowboss, I have replaced 5 DMF's by myself, not a hard job. You need a floor jack, small rachet strap, drain pan, & tools. Have SEVERAL LONG EXTENTIONS for your socket set. First mark the drive shaft joints (front & back) so you can put it back with it indexed correctly, then remove drive shaft. Drain the tranny (& transfer case if 4X4) to reduce weight. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the side of the tranny and wire out of the way. Remove any electrical connections to tranny (& transfer case if 4X4). Remove the dust cover from around the shifter, with tranny in neutral remove the shifter (towels around shifter to catch any oil drips) Place floor jack under tranny (or transfer case if 4X4, "remove t-case first to cut down on weight"), put rachet strap around jack saddle and tranny. Remove tranny mount bolts & cross member bolts (raise tranny as needed) remove cross member. Remove bottom and side tranny to adaptor plate (bell housing to engine) bolts. NOW lower the tranny some and put several long extension together and reach the top bolts from the rear of the tranny. Using two screw drivers pry the tranny away from the adaptor plate. Once it comes off of the alignmet pins, balance, roll jack back and lower.

Unbolt pressure plate assembly, remove p-plate & clutch plates. Remove DMF and TRASH or use as a boat anchor. Install new SMF & clutch assembly. Remove throw out bearing and install new bearing.

Replace tranny (t-case if 4X4), drive shaft, slave cylinder, electrical connections. Fill the tranny with fluid through the shifter hole. Now replace shifter. Clean up and your done. By yourself and taking your time 4-5 hours. I would never pay anybody to do this job.

"Disclaimer: I may have left out some small stuff, but its hard to think of everything when your not actually doing it."

 

WellMan, CudaJim, thanks for the advice ......... Does the transfer case literaly just unbolt and slide off a shaft? How about the engine does it need to be supported once the tranny is removed , will it drop down or tip forward??? This job does not look all that hard provided there are no surprises , the truck is high and lots of room and the tranny looks lighter than the old 79 F- 150 4 speed trannies that I have done,,,,,, I want to get it out and in in a day so as not to miss any work cause this is my only dump truck...

Thanks

 

I left them together. It's a little cumbersome, but not too bad. If you have a floor jack, with or without a tranny adapter, you should be able to do it. I did it alone with just the floor jack, and bottle jack and blocked up the engine. The engine DOES need to be supported. You'll want to be able to raise/lower the engine (bottle jack) when you go to put the tranny back in. Makes lining up the shaft easier. I didn't want to separate them. But that's just me. While it's off, change the downpipe!!!!!! As for the rear seal, it would be a good time to do it. Hope this helps.

 

Yep the t-case just slides off, not too heavy even for 1 person. The engine will hang on the engine mounts but it's better to support it with a jack for reasons fullcrew said above. Ditto on the DP too even if you don't replace it..it gets in the way on an Auto trans..not sure about the manual trans, IIRC they're not as wide.

 

The downpipe isn't really in the way of the tranny, just in the way for getting out the top 2 bolts on that side. It would have been so easy to change it out, but I didn't have mine yet and needed the truck on the road. Now I'll have to do it with the tranny in.

 

Thanks Fellas Great info, I think Ill take the transfer off just to make it more manageable I am also going to get a down pipe and cat delete 'maybe a tymar ......... Its gona be a few weeks before I get a free weekend to do this swap but I will post some picks of the old clutch cause it might be intresting ,its so freakin loud and shakey that it must have some busted springs or something..........

 

This is starting to sound pretty good! Keep us posted!

 

Hey Jaaaaak, Watch that you dont drive it much if it's really lettin go. It'll chew up your tranny shaft at the least. No tellin what elso will suffer from being out of balance, with any rpms to speak of. I'd find me that pilot shaft sleeve/oversize bearing kit somewhere close and have it on will call, you're likely to need it, and you wouldn't want to lose a day or two while you're tore down tryin to find one. Just an idea, good luck on your project, Jay
p.s. dont forget a new clutch fork @ Fordhouse + - 30 bucks