You need a 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/8 tee to come off the heater hose and then a 3/8 x 3/8 x 3/8 tee to go into the degas bottle line. The hose to/from the filter base is 3/8 and you need barbed 3/8 fittings on the in and out sides of the base too.

The 3/8 fitting is easy to find in brass, but the heater tie-in is a bit tougher. Napa sells a plastic one, that's both for heater application as well as it says it's a Ford replacement part. Me, I'm going all brass.

If you try the PEX fitting route (they're way cheaper) you need to go 1 x 1 x 1/2 for the heater hose and 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 for the degas line. The PEX fittings are a little bit bigger, but they should work and they are brass (their sizing must be OD is why the numerical part looks wrong). Neither Boo_Daddy or I have installed ours yet, and we're both planning on using the PEX fittings...

Good luck

On edit: Boo_Daddy, you and I must've been typing at the same time -- I just happen to be a slower typer...!

 

thanks for the help guys. I am going to get everything and try to start on it next week

 

I just got the coolant housing shipped to my house for $30 but I have 1 question before I install it. How come all this nasty foundry sand does not clog up your radiator and heater core?

 

They have more paths for water flow, they could be partially clogged.

 

Just about to get started on the install. I have the t's and the filter base and the hose. Myabe I missed it but does anyone have the part # for the filter? I htink I saw you can get it from Napa or other autopart stores

 

If I'm not mistaken its 4019 at napa

 

Couple more questions, trying to get everything I need before I start the project.

Is a brass fitting OK to use for the cooling system? Will it react or cause any problems?

Can I mount the filter below the engine or does it need to be in the top of the engine bay? I have an oil bypass mounted under the hood and am having a hard time finding a spotfor it so was thinking somewhere low near the tranny filter?

 

Well, I attempted to get my setup done today. I started off by trying my mount, and it was really "floppy". I made it exactly like the ones in the commercial kits, but the filter base seemed to really bounce around.

I even went back and added in some bracing but it was a no go. I used 20 gauge metal for my bracket. Im gonna take a few days and see what I can come up with for a good sturdy bracket. Does the commercial kits have any bounce in them? Are they pretty solid?

 

The brackets in the kits look really flimsy to me, I will probably build something different when I do my coolant filter.

 

Maxium4x4 made a really good looking bracket that looks likes it would hold a sherman tank...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6009127

I may go this route when I build my next one.

 

why not use a piece of angle iron and mount it off the alternator?

 

I don't think that'd work very well for us cfb-5000 guys -- it'd be too far away from the mounting point to fit low enough and be sturdy. Plus all the coolant connections will be backwards. I have the long filter, so that's part of my issue -- taking the filter off means it's even further away from the alternator. I like the creative thinking tho -- kepp 'em coming...

I think I'll try to do a minor relocation of the battery cable and use the small long bolt that is one of the radiator mount points, and then zip screw another mount to the top cross member. It'll be a smaller mount (closer to it's support point) and should be sturdy because of that -- might have to drill a hole in the cfb to do this.

Thanks for the update Boo_Daddy!

 

It works well

 

Just out of curiosity, how thick is the metal you used?

Thanks,

Jason

 

Without looking, I used some odds and ends, 3/16