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'98 f150 4.6 v8
my truck started slipping/missing/jerking during accelleration. I haven't drove it on the freeway since it's started. losing alot of power and its burning up my gas. check engine light is on and sometimes blinks. It is ok while in park idle and its starts fine. I drove it a few more miles and it got slowly worse. I searched some threads and i gather its possibly the plugs and wires. Could is also be the O2 sensors? Maybe the Cats went bad? I recently put on a flowmaster, maybe it was breathing too good and choked? thank you for the help.
How many miles do you have on the current plugs and wires? Mine was doing the same thing and when I changed the plugs and wires, it runs like a champ now. My 4.6 has 100,000 miles on it. You need to tell us more info to try and narrow the problem.
How many miles do you have on the current plugs and wires? Mine was doing the same thing and when I changed the plugs and wires, it runs like a champ now. My 4.6 has 100,000 miles on it. You need to tell us more info to try and narrow the problem.
I have 190,000 miles on it. Had tune up @ 120,000 so i'm probably due. everything has been running fine, and then this week on the way home from work it started the jerking. i just put on a 3" body lift, 33" tires, and a flowmaster; nothing was else was messed with or damaged. maybe the extra power for the tires put it over the edge.
what do you think the light on the dash is for??? take the truck to Auto Zone and they will connect a computer code reader and tell you what the error code is.. dont guess, get it checked. bring back the code and we can give you 2-3 different problems that can give you that code.
I have a 200 Expedition XLT w/ a 4.6L v8 w/ 108K, and never tuned. I need to change plugs and (plug extensions?) to correct a bucking condition on acceleration at load. Can I accomplish this on my own, and do I need any special tools?
You can do it on your own.......you will need a socket, a good long extension, a ratchet.
Make sure you blow the holes out that the spark plugs are in before you start removing them. Sometimes there can be crap down there that you dont want to fall in when plug is removed.
Get a peice of firm rubber hose and slip the plug connection in to the end of hose to help lower the new plugs into the hole and help get the threads started. I put some anti seize on my plugs. Just make sure you torque them correctly. I beleive it is 19lbs foot torque.
The whole job will take about 3 hours. I am just a shade tree mechanic...if I can do it, anybody can
You can do it on your own.......you will need a socket, a good long extension, a ratchet.
Make sure you blow the holes out that the spark plugs are in before you start removing them. Sometimes there can be crap down there that you dont want to fall in when plug is removed.
Get a peice of firm rubber hose and slip the plug connection in to the end of hose to help lower the new plugs into the hole and help get the threads started. I put some anti seize on my plugs. Just make sure you torque them correctly. I beleive it is 19lbs foot torque.
The whole job will take about 3 hours. I am just a shade tree mechanic...if I can do it, anybody can
Thank you to all of you who responded. I have read all the pertient info and am now ready to start the task. My regular mechanic spoke of replacing the plugs and an adjunct item...could he be speaking of the coil packs? I gathered that the item affixed directly to the plug and was not a normal spark plug wire. I have never seen the ignition setup on my 4.6 as it has been trouble-free for these 108K miles. Chardagha
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