f250?
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Elder User
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From: SW Washington coast
f250?
I am the proud next owner of an '86 f250 4x4 6.9l NA ... on the body it has emblems "xl" and "explorer" ... Are these correct? ... What are the criteria for each of those designations versus a standard "truck" ...
Also ... The PO seems to have tinkered with the ignition switch ... You don't need a key to turn it and it turns very smoothly (almost too freely) ... And there is a starter button ... How do I unwire the stock switch and put in a toggle setup ... We used to do it to our cars back in the day but back then the ignition switch was on the dash anyway ...
Also ... The PO seems to have tinkered with the ignition switch ... You don't need a key to turn it and it turns very smoothly (almost too freely) ... And there is a starter button ... How do I unwire the stock switch and put in a toggle setup ... We used to do it to our cars back in the day but back then the ignition switch was on the dash anyway ...
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From: Marietta, Ohio
Back in those days "EXPLORER" was used as a name for a model of the pick ups just as the name "Lariat" or "XLT" are now. As for the ignition switch, I have seen some that wear out or get the tumblers stuck in position and will start with or without the key. As for the pushbutton, it appears that the actual switch part which is usually down on the top of the steering column behind the instrument cluster, has gone bad in the start section of the switch. You can get a new switch at most parts places but you will have to fix the wiring that was modified for the start button unless they ran an extra wire to the starter solenoid relay. If that is the case the wiring may not have been changed. If you just want a toggle switch and push button you need to get a wiring diagram. It will have to be a multiple pole switch to replace the stock switch. Putting everything back to stock would be much simpler.
Dave
Dave
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Just buy a replacement oem style switch, its easy to install, and they don't fail very often. They are really not that expensive either, but if you butcher the wiring, it costs you more than the parts and labor. It severely penalizes the resale value.
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From: SW Washington coast
This fine piece of automotive invention and craftsmanship has about 10 pounds of bondo in the doors alone and would be great in a Rustolium test facility ... But it is paid for, it runs and it is mine ...
I just might replace the whole switch assembly ... Tanx guys ...
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Resale value? This fine piece of automotive invention and craftsmanship has about 10 pounds of bondo in the doors alone and would be great in a Rustolium test facility ...
But it is paid for, it runs and it is mine ...
I just might replace the whole switch assembly ... Tanx guys ...
This fine piece of automotive invention and craftsmanship has about 10 pounds of bondo in the doors alone and would be great in a Rustolium test facility ... But it is paid for, it runs and it is mine ...
I just might replace the whole switch assembly ... Tanx guys ...
If you go with the toggle switch, wire the accessory and on circuits so that the circuits don't cross, otherwise you can sometimes get strange electrical gremlins and each terminal is rated separately, so you prevent overloading the circuit. Or run the accessories as a separate switch, that way the accessories are not on when you try to start the engine. You should use a keyed switch for the start, that way if someone wants to steal the truck (you might have a distant cousin who would do that to you), they have to be smart enough to hot-wire it.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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mag, just to understand how it works, in the old days the wire harness plugged into the back of teh key switch. what you have is a key tumbler on the column, that the pins wore out and now turns easy, without the key. there is a rod about a foot long that is attached to this key tumbler and sets on top of the column, and pushes a switch (with wire harness) at the lower end of the column by you knee. there are no wires up at teh key.
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