I wanna kill the error code on my truck for the rear cat o2 sensor. Is there a way to do it without a tweecer?

Same question applies to EGR
Smog Pump Sensors
And crankshaft position sensor

thanks guys

 

There are EGR and O2 sensor eliminators on the web.. little plugs that take the place of the sensor. For the EGR you also have to remove and cap the vacuum lines and put a blockoff plate on the intake if you remove the valve.
Air pump and crank position sensors I don't have anything for, and just so you know, removing all this will have a net negative impact on fuel milage and performance.

 

Casper's was a big name in o2 simulators, but the EPA cracked down on them. I suspect it's the same with other big name manufactures. A trick I have found for street/strip cars is to plug the sensor in and tie wrap it to the frame. The idea is if the sensor is breathing fresh air, it might think the cats are functioning properly.

Hook the EGR all back up, but take a piece of aluminum, house flashing or a coke can, and make a block off plate so exhaust gas can't get in the manifold.

I am not sure of a bypass for mechanical AIR pumps, but some electrical you can get around by pulling the relay only.

You need the CPS, it gives the ECM very important information on where the engine is in it's cycle.

Sniper's Special Forces software lets me kill o2s and EGR, but any custom tuner should be able to take care of it for you.

 

I hooked up the egr block off plate and the egr plug from fordfuelinjection.com Seems to work alright.
I am keeping the 2 o2 sensors in the front, not sure what kind of performance gains or losses would be experienced by telling the computer not to look for em. Also wondering why I would lose performance or mileage by bypassing the egr. Care to elaborate on that a little for me?
I am always interested in things that will increase performance and mileage.

I have figured out that I need to install a crankshaft position sensor, and that is fine, I just can't find the darn tone ring.

 

Firstly the front o2 sensors tell the computer a/f ratio of the exhaust. The computer needs this information to adjust how much fuel to deliver during closed loop operation. Which is during low load and idle, the engine will run more efficiently mileage wise.

During open loop when the ECM runs off of stored curves, A/F will most likely be a little rich. Which means your putting in more fuel than it can burn off. If you have a code, odds are the ECM is in open loop mode and running too rich when it could/should be adjusting by exhaust gas.

Does that help?

 

The main O2 sensors are the only feedback the computer has on how accurate it's fuel delivery is, so these cannot be eliminated or milage will go in the tank.. literally. The 3rd sensor just monitors catalytic converter efficiency and has no effect on engine performance, so it can be eliminated.

The EGR system has two main functions, the exhaust gas that's injected helps improve emissions, but it also has a cooling effect on combustion so the engineers have programmed the computer to add additional ignition advance based on EGR flow. More advance produces more TQ and improves milage. If you remove the EGR correctly with an eliminator you will loose this additional advance and the milage that goes with it because the eliminator tells the comuter the valve is closed all the time. If you don't use an elimator and just disconnect or block the EGR the computer will still add the advance and the motor will exibit one of several problems including excessive pinging under load, poor power and/or bad milage.

 

so you're saying I can get better mileage with an EGR still attached? Any way to do that with long tube headers? cause that is what I am putting on my truck.

So we agree to keep the 2 front headers, and that the rear o2 is just for the cat and not required. Any idea on how to fake the computer, so it dosen't throw a rear o2 code?

 

Yes

Yes, weld a fitting on the front header pipe to accept the EGR tube. I used the female end off a donor tube on my longtubes.

Use an O2 eliminator plug.

 

ummm, I have a problem as my longtuebs are allready coated. Is it still possible to weld to them? I could be wrong, but I seem to recall reading that.

The o2 eliminator plug.... any recomendations on a brand or where to get one?

thanks for all the help so far

 

With the rear O2 sensors, go to NAPA or autozone, the like, and get a set of spark plug defoulers. Drill out one with a half inch bit, screw it into the other one. Put the O2 sensor in the top one, and re-install it in the pipe(you will need a bung welded in for this)
This will usually eliminate any post cat problems, as it moves the sensor out of the exhaust stream, and provides it with a steady flow. For more detailed instructions see this - http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5468

This type of mod has been around since the dawn of the post cat sensor. Very handy, as it doesnt require any tinkering with the eletrical part, and most of the eletrical ones will cost $40 plus... this is like 10 buck, if that. HTH!