Chris,
I have very few directions you haven't heard yet.
- Clean up the install. Just close your gaps between the hood and front. (I am sure you were planning on this. After all it is just a prototype)
- Dynamat. This would give you sound and heat deadening qualities. Just apply it to the outside of the box and volia.
- Tymar like securement of the filter. This would make for a cleaner install and help maintain "minimal radial clearance." This is important to get the filter to suck all possible air. I thought I had pics of the Tymar setup, but I don't. It has a big strap around the filter, done!
- Then I would do something like this to clean up the hole where the filter goes in. The 4" ss pipe would have "ears" on it to allow it to slide over the Cold Air Bos (CAB). This would allow you to put the filter on the pipe outside the truck and then put it in the truck and completely seal up this area. (Hopefully my pic works) The dark lines are the filter box that never moves. The skinny lines are all the pipe and welded on ears.
- The final think I would do is go with bigger weatherstripping so you don't have to be as exact with your metal fitting

All in all, excellent work. Way to man up!

Oh yeah, one last suggestion. Tig welded diamond plate

I figured out why, it is a .bmp. It says it needs a .jpg.

I WIN!!!

 

Thanks. I've got some Raamat (like dynomat) I was thinking of trying. I was also going to test some EPDM on the metal to see what temp differences I saw.

I think what I'm planning on doing is just spot welding extension to the current box till I have a shape / fit that seems to work. Once I'm satisfied I'll build the second one, or I'll throw it in the trash and copy Chris & Brandon's work.

 

I forgot to mention, no matter how many air leaks this cold air box has it was always be colder than the under hood air. (Unless the metal acts as a heat sink.)

 

Is there actually a snorkel on yours, or are you just talking about that monster oval shaped hole in the inner fender?

 

there is a snorkel inside the fender where that oval hole is..that ends down near the front of the front tire...I was thinking about extending it out by the tow hook some place...my filter will suck sand and dirt up the snorkel and plug up my filter..so I covered it up for the winter..

 

I'll see what I can do to make up some FTE stickers. I have a couple of programs on my pc that I can work with. Any one want something specific?

 

I was just thinking of a little round design similar to Ron's AFE. We would just need to change the initials to FTE. If you come up with something let me know. I can print a sticker, I just can't design one.

 

Well I thought I had some time this afternoon to play with this again. Stupid me left great pics Ron sent me at home so I had to wing it. I cut a 1" wide strip of metal and pointed it up, then held in in place with a magnet. I closed the hood and marked the height to determine how tall the box needed to be. I started off right, but kept getting interrupted, then it started getting late so I just kind of threw it together towards the end.

Anyway I put #2 together. I should have spent another hour getting things just right but tell me if you think I'm on the right track. Make sure to let me know what I've missed.

The drone was back to the level of the factory intake so it's all but gone. The sucking air sound is more subdued than the last model, and the woosh when you let off the accelerator has disappeared.

 

One thing that might help when fabbing up the prototype - Use heavy cardboard and duct tape, Then when you get it right copy it to your sheet metal. Saves a lot of cuts. I do this whenever I have a really tough transition to make. Good Luck Nice work so far there Chris btw.

 

Funny you should mention that, I've been trying different things to get the drone to go away on mine. That's looking very good I'd say, nice job on round two.

 

So far so good Chris! Looks like the factory battery box is gone now with your setup? Can't really tell....but if so, how are you securing the battery? Another thing I am wondering......with the sounds diminished now, I wonder if the 6637 is flowing as much air thru it now? With the whoosh gone, and the sucking sound when you get on the gas a bit.......I dunno. I'm definitely no expert in that department! haha. The thought just went thru my head is all......

 

He ditched it on try number one as well. There are really good pics of his new tray in his gallery. He took a piece of sheet steel and bent it at a 90 and used the factory holddown. IIRC from Dale at Tymar utilizes an early 99 battery tray bc they are metal and you can drill new holes closer to the radiator.

 

Scott's right. I used a piece of steel with a 90 deg bend for my battery tray. I used the factory holes on the side and bottom to hold it in place.




I never liked the idea of having to disassemble so much to check the water level in that battery anyway.

As for the amount of air. The other cold air set ups seem to use a similar design. My uneducated tests so far have been that the increased performance at lower rpm's (stick shift) I noticed when I first put in the 6637 is still there. Shifting at higher RPM's I did not get the puff of black smoke I used to with the stock air box which leads me to believe I have enough air for the fuel I'm flowing.

Also the sucking air sound is still there, which was never noticeable on the stock set up, it's just more muted now. I'm pretty happy with it so far.

 

Optima = never checking water level.....EVER

 

I was thinking of an oval with an old english style font. What do you and everyone else think of this idea?
Thanks
Jim