did you get the organic (D50) pads of the semi-metallic (MKD50) pads?

 

I purchased the semi-metallic Valucraft MKD50 pads, which were 12.99 versus 18.99 for the Duralast.
I chose the cheap ones for two reasons. First of all, I'm that poor - 6.00 actually made a difference to me at the time. Second of all, I need to replace my rotors as well, and will do that within the year anyway, so I put these pads in knowing that it was a temporary fix.

 

One thing to be aware of when buying brakes is to watch out for the ones offering a lifetime warranty, there are made of very hard material but they have no stopping power and will ruin your rotors.

 

Really? I've never heard that. I guess it makes sense - ultimately I suppose you want a balance between pad life and stopping power.

 

thats not true. the duralast pads in general, and for that application in particular have softer metal impregnated in them to extend rotor life, and make little or no noise. if anything, the cheap pads will be harder, as its cheaper to make.

if you do get your rotors within the year warranty, return your used MKD50V pads under the warranty, and you will only pay the $6 difference towards the lifetime duralast MKD50 pads.

99% of people dont keep a car long enough to get even one free set of pads.
CSK. Autozone, CarQuest, Napa etc, are happy to swap you out for a quality set of new pads, knowing that you are the 1% that may actually know enough about your car to intelligently order parts for it.

oreillys around here anyway, have lifetime warranty, but do not warranty wear, they will only replace pads if the material falls off. I dont know if that is all oreillys, or just here, I never dealt with them before.

I have been selling parts for 25 years all over the country, I have an opinion, but its an educated opinion.

 

In general as a rule there are several different types of brake pad material. The early style "Organics" where made from a material containing asbestos. This material was actually pretty easy on brake rotors, but under hard braking or continuous braking was known for brake fade. (think going down a long steep hill....when you got near the bottom, the brakes normally felt a bit 'odd') I'm not sure if the new organics use asbestos or not? But when working with older pads and shoes it's important to use even something as simple as a breathing mask to keep from inhaling the dust. (it's been a while sense I turned a wrench professionally)

The next upgrade was "Semi-Metallic". The brake pad material was designed for more performance braking systems, and did not suffer that badly from brake fade. (they still did to a degree..but much improved) This material handled heat better, however it was a bit more "harsh" in regards to the brake rotors. Heat Glaze is a side effect of using this type of pad material. Every so often one of the customers would come back to the shop with a brake squeal. The rotor surface would look like a mirror, smooth as glass. The quick fix would be to use a light grit sand paper and scuff the glaze off the rotor surface.

The newest type is for heavy braking performance, and that would be ceramic. It's made for long life, and deals with higher temps quite well.

WHD is right on the money regarding the "LifeTime" warranty. By the time the factory pads wear down? People opt for "LifeTime" everything...But most consider a car/truck to be disposable. So if the pads last several years? The car has already changed hands, and the warranty is no longer valid.

Sense I'm on this rant in the first place? (warning: Hyjack in progress).. For the last 20 something years sense I started turning a wrench. (changed careers after 5).. The parts people do not see behind the wheels has gotten CHEAP! Even most aftermarket rotors..They are cut so flippen thin you can't even attempt to turn them! And most of the steel is made overseas of lower grade material. It makes a simple brake job cost about a hundred plus additional in parts!! Even back a few years ago a friend of mine went to a local brake shop. New pads and rotors. Turns out a caliper was sticking, so she had me look at it. Sure enough--after a few stops? The rotor was smoking hot!! The brake shop told her "Sorry, SOMEONE turned the rotors to far and under cut them. The warranty is not valid if someone modifies the brakes after we install them". She brought me along as the "Family Mechanic". Needless to say she got both calipers, pads, rotors free of charge after I reamed the shop manager a new fanny-opening. I also threatened to report the shop to the district sales office (chain store) for test driving the car in a very dangerous manner. There is zero reason to get a car up to 30++MPH, and then doing a panic style stop several times on a busy public street.

There ends the "Story Hour".

And now back to our thread...already in progress.

S-

 

Thanks for the primer on brake pads, guys. I've never delved into the research on pad materials, so it's good to know. The friction side of the hydraulic brake system is so straightforward I usually just "fix it and forget it", ya know?

I've been driving the Supercab for a few days now with the Valucraft pads, they are certainly a step above the rivets that were attempting to slow the truck down before! Even with some pretty nasty ridges worn on the rotors, the braking power is twice as strong. Now I don't have to start sweating when I'm trying to stop it going down a hill!