Hey guys,

I have a question about installing front brake pads on my ‘76 2wd Supercab. I bought new pads and a hardware kit for the front brakes, and most everything in the installation has gone well, except for the anti-rattle clips. I’m a bit confused. There are two clips, one for each inner pad on either side. The problem I’m having is that the pads fit REAL tightly when I install them with the anti-rattle clips – so tightly that they allow no room for movement. This confuses me because I thought the pads had to be able to move at least a little in order to prevent the brakes from “sticking” to the rotors. As I understand it, the piston in the caliper moves forward against the inner pad, moving it against the rotor, then backs off a bit when you release the brakes. It seems to me that with the pads installed so tightly, they won’t be able to back off the rotor. The outer pads don’t have anti-rattle clips, and they install just fine.

My question is, is it normal with new rattle clips and pads for the inner pads to fit that tightly? I can’t see any other way of installing the clips, and as of now I decided to just put the pads on without them – I’d rather having a rattling brake pad than a prematurely worn, smoking one!

(And, by the way…if you decide to get the disc brake hardware kit from Autozone, be forewarned. The springs that they include in the kit to put tension on the caliper pins are not machined correctly and require some grinding to make work.)

 

The are not supposed to be that tight. The rattle key is somewhat deceptive in appearance. It can look like it is properly seated and even try to seat itself on only one way; but your rattle key is not properly positioned.

This can happen because of the slight edge on the caliper bracket (about 2mm thick) where the rattle key seats. It can get really stubborn if you hammer or force the key into position because the two surfaces are made of different metals with differing degrees of hardness.

It can be a bear to correct one that is stuck on tight because it looks like it is correct and the new groove has been cut into the bracket. You just have to work on it and you will eventually get the right angle.

Good luck.

 

So the rattle clips don't attach to the pads, they attach to the caliper? When I pulled my old pads out, the clips came off with the pads.

 

you have a piece under the caliper that a bolt goes through to hold it in place right? well lay the anti rattle clip on it and install it under the caliper. usually have to drive it in . then install bolt.

 

My bad. The actual break rattle clips do attach to the pad. For some reason I thought you were talking about the caliper support key and spring. That is what usually causes the caliper to seize and fail to move freely after a break pad replacement. The spring and key must match perfectly with the vehicle.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

 

I see on that Autozone website that they say to install the anti rattle clips on the bottom of the inner pads - does this make a difference? I tried installing them on the top side...

The inner pad is the one that moves, right? The caliper pushes the piston outwards towards the inner pad/rotor while the outer pad remains stationary?

Mine are the light duty discs, they have a bolt that screws into the caliper, holding the caliper key in place. I bought a new set of the keys/springs and the springs did not match very wel, either. The ends of the springs (tangs) were too long and wouldn't allow the key to slide through the caliper, so I'm gonna have to grind them down a bit, too.

 

The spring/key unit is a royal pain at times to reinstall. But it's possible. Just ensure you wirewheel the rust and crust off the mounting surfaces that the caliper slides on. Once done, give all the sliding surfaces a thin coating of "Silica-Glide" or some such high temp lube used for brakes. It's normal to have to angle the key with the spring on top..and then using a dead blow hammer to tap it back into place. Once the spring and key tilt back upwards (you'll know what I'm talking about when you do this) The unit goes in pretty easy.

In regards to the anti-rattle clip? It is also used to let you know when the inboard pad is worn out. There is a small "Slot" where the ears of the pad ride on/in. The lower part is where the clip is installed onto the pad. It's a tight fit if you do not have the inboard pad aligned right.

As for how this wing-ding really operates? It's a huge "Clamp". The outboard pad DOES move in relation to the piston. The piston comes out and presses the inboard pad into the rotor. Now due to the caliper being on the mounting slides-- As the inboard pad is pushed into the rotor? This action will pull the outboard part of the caliper into the rotor as well. Creating a "Clamp". When you release the pedal, the inboard pad is relived of tension, and the tension holding the outboard pad ceases...this releases the clamping action.

It is 100% normal for there to be a light drag (VERY light drag) with this braking system. It's handy due to the fact with that very light drag? It actually keeps the rotor cleaned up. Anything more then a light drag, points towards either the piston starting to seize up, or the caliper slides need maintenance. This system also uses more maintenance due to the design. Road salt and dirt can wedge into the spring/key seat and the upper seat.

S-

 

Make sure you wire brush the area where the caliber slides and it doesn't hurt to put some caliber lube on it either.

 

Thanks Tedybear - that explanation was exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I'm gonna have to take it all apart and clean it better, too. It surprises me that the outer pad can move at all with how tight that key/spring fit in there.

So the rattle clip installs on the bottom slot of the hub, or the bottom ear of the pad? I can't tell from the pics I've seen in the Haynes manual and online. I tried installing the clips on the top ear of the pad and it was way too tight.

-Justin

 

That anti-rattle clip can be a bugger. It clips onto the lower ear of the inner brake pad. You'll know when you have it right. That also acts as the warning device for almost no pad material left. There will be a small "tang" of steel that when correctly installed points directly at the rotor, and is lined up just about equal with the metal backing of the pad.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/31/38/0900823d800e3138.jsp

I know it's not the right one---but scroll down to Figure-15!! That shows the bugger installed and how it's mounted after install.

S-

 

Just got it all back together, here in the Ohio blizzard!

The problem that I was having was that the new inner pads were slightly larger than my originals...just enough to make them too tight in their mounts. Took a grinding wheel to one of the ears and shaved off just enough to get them to fit. Clips installed fine, everything looks good. I had to also grind down the springs that came in the new hardware kit - their tabs were also too large to be installed. I wire wheeled all the mounting surfaces and lubed everything up, they work great!

I bought the Valucraft pads from Autozone with their "Brakeware" hardware kit. For those who install with these parts in the future, be aware that some slight modification of the new parts is necessary for correct fitment.

Thanks for your assistance, everyone.

 

Sometimes the caliper piston doesn't get pushed back into its cylinder far enough causing installation probelms

 

what part of ohio are you from?

 

Southeastern Ohio - Athens, to be exact. We had a nice winter storm move through over the last two days.

 

the valucraft (albany) pads only have a 1 yr warranty. for $3 more you could have had lifetime (duralast) pads. why the cheaper ones?