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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

automatic to manual swap

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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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automatic to manual swap

i have an 89 f250 with a 302 and a auto tranny i want to put a stick into it but cant find info on any one doin it i know it can be done i have a junk yard down the road with killer good prices so i know i can afford to do it so if any one has any advice other than to go buy a stick shift truck id appreciate.
parts list for example would be very helpful as well as a recomendation on which would be easier a cable clutch or hydrualic. thanks yall
 
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:42 PM
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Here's a pic I found of all the parts you need to do the swap. This helped me when I did mine. Having a donor truck so you have all the parts handy is also really nice.

 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 07:55 AM
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out of all the places ive posted that question that was about the most helpful response thanks alot
 
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 07:58 AM
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did you have to change your ecu computer when you swapped
 
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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You don't have to but if you check codes, you will get about 8 different codes that are complaining about the transmission (because the one it expects isn't there anymore) so I did change mine to stop this from happening. But I ran with the old ECU for a couple of months with no problems.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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I completed mine about 4 years ago, on a 1992 F-350 4x4.

First off it all depends how "orignal" you want it to look.
You dont need a steering column unless your upgrading to lets say, a tilt from a non-tilt. You just need to take off the shifter, and the column cover and replace it with a cover from a manual tranny equpied truck/bronco. Its he same column. Be sure to zip tie up the internal mechanism that the shifter used to be attached to and permentally tie it in the park position, this is so it will start.

There should be no need for a computer, just be sure to KEEP your old harness pluged in and KEEP your old plastic gear selector box that has a hole in it from the auto tranny selector (its the silly looking plastic box at the end of your pigtail), stick your finger in there and click it to neutral position. If not in neutral, it will NOT start. your computer will think your in netural and start fine every time.

Just keep the old harness intact and pluged in. put a ballon around these end plugs and the plastic gear selector box to keep it weather proof.

There is no way that I have found to splice in to the orignal reverse lights, just run a toggle on the shifter lever and new wires.
You will never again have a neutral safety switch. In order to do that, you would need a complete in-dash harness which is very, very hard to convert. ( I didn't )
So you will have to remember to push in the clutch before you hit the starter, or you just might hit a car or building!

You might need a manual tranny crossmember, I did, because the E40D sits about 1" higher than the manual, doesn't seem like much, but in time it will wear your U-joints out faster and might vibrate. Also my front driveshaft rubbed on the auto's crossmsmber cause there wasen't a big clearance dip like on the manual's crossmsmber. Also you will need a longer rear driveshaft, the manual is about 5-6" shorter than the E40D. You might also need a longer front drive shaft if its a 4x4, I did cause mine is a 4x4. You did not specify if yours was a 4x4.

While the tranny is out, cut that firewall body seam that sticks down about 1.5-2".
Doing this will save a lot of headaches when it comes time to install the manual tranny or down the road when its time to change the clutch. The little "dog ears" that are the top two tranny bolt holes will hit this body seam and bind up when you are trying to align the splines on the tranny shaft to go into the pilot bushing.

Lets see......what else......

Make sure you get a shifter too.
Make sure you get a clutch fork (its the thing that the slave cylinder pushes on to engage the through out berring)

It is best to get a brand new starter, I didn't and my old one was just worn out enough to start to chip flywheel teeth. this down the road cost me about $800 in parts + shop labor to put in a new starter and ring gear on the flywheel. I was push starting my truck for about 7 months till I gave in and had it fixed, it was not fun!!!

Get a new clutch pack from Napa or Autozone. It has the 5 new things you need:
the clutch basket, disk, pilot bushing, through out berring, and alignment tool. Don't skimp on this part, you need all new clutch parts so you dont have trouble down the road. LUK brand clutch seems to be the best for me and many others, it should cost under $300.00 ( mine was $225)


If yours is a 4x4 get the shorter linkage from the manual doner truck/broncos Transfer case. the one for the E40D is WAY too long.

All total minus your time installing it, it should cost no more than $1800.00
unless you get EVERYTHING new.

Please feel free to ask me any other questions you may have.

John
 
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 07:00 AM
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my truck is 2 wheel drive and had the aod tranny but im sure its the same hassle to swap as th e40d so yall are givin me alot of info keep it coming lol thanks yall
 
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Old Mar 8, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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all right i found a four speed donor truck at the bone yard the tranny will cost 80 dollars and it seems to be good hopin to pull it tomorrow any advice on how to check to make sure its good obviously i cant start it and drive it so what should i look for? i know the drive shaft is slightly bowed can that hurt it?
 
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