automatic to manual swap
parts list for example would be very helpful as well as a recomendation on which would be easier a cable clutch or hydrualic. thanks yall
First off it all depends how "orignal" you want it to look.
You dont need a steering column unless your upgrading to lets say, a tilt from a non-tilt. You just need to take off the shifter, and the column cover and replace it with a cover from a manual tranny equpied truck/bronco. Its he same column. Be sure to zip tie up the internal mechanism that the shifter used to be attached to and permentally tie it in the park position, this is so it will start.
There should be no need for a computer, just be sure to KEEP your old harness pluged in and KEEP your old plastic gear selector box that has a hole in it from the auto tranny selector (its the silly looking plastic box at the end of your pigtail), stick your finger in there and click it to neutral position. If not in neutral, it will NOT start. your computer will think your in netural and start fine every time.
Just keep the old harness intact and pluged in. put a ballon around these end plugs and the plastic gear selector box to keep it weather proof.
There is no way that I have found to splice in to the orignal reverse lights, just run a toggle on the shifter lever and new wires.
You will never again have a neutral safety switch. In order to do that, you would need a complete in-dash harness which is very, very hard to convert. ( I didn't )
So you will have to remember to push in the clutch before you hit the starter, or you just might hit a car or building!
You might need a manual tranny crossmember, I did, because the E40D sits about 1" higher than the manual, doesn't seem like much, but in time it will wear your U-joints out faster and might vibrate. Also my front driveshaft rubbed on the auto's crossmsmber cause there wasen't a big clearance dip like on the manual's crossmsmber. Also you will need a longer rear driveshaft, the manual is about 5-6" shorter than the E40D. You might also need a longer front drive shaft if its a 4x4, I did cause mine is a 4x4. You did not specify if yours was a 4x4.
While the tranny is out, cut that firewall body seam that sticks down about 1.5-2".
Doing this will save a lot of headaches when it comes time to install the manual tranny or down the road when its time to change the clutch. The little "dog ears" that are the top two tranny bolt holes will hit this body seam and bind up when you are trying to align the splines on the tranny shaft to go into the pilot bushing.
Lets see......what else......
Make sure you get a shifter too.
Make sure you get a clutch fork (its the thing that the slave cylinder pushes on to engage the through out berring)
It is best to get a brand new starter, I didn't and my old one was just worn out enough to start to chip flywheel teeth. this down the road cost me about $800 in parts + shop labor to put in a new starter and ring gear on the flywheel. I was push starting my truck for about 7 months till I gave in and had it fixed, it was not fun!!!
Get a new clutch pack from Napa or Autozone. It has the 5 new things you need:
the clutch basket, disk, pilot bushing, through out berring, and alignment tool. Don't skimp on this part, you need all new clutch parts so you dont have trouble down the road. LUK brand clutch seems to be the best for me and many others, it should cost under $300.00 ( mine was $225)
If yours is a 4x4 get the shorter linkage from the manual doner truck/broncos Transfer case. the one for the E40D is WAY too long.
All total minus your time installing it, it should cost no more than $1800.00
unless you get EVERYTHING new.
Please feel free to ask me any other questions you may have.
John
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