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I had planed on taking the tuner off, I got the sensor and replaced it, the main problem was shifting from 1-2 and it would hold it untill about 3000 rpms or untill i let off the pedal. I took about 10 min for the O/D light to start flashing.
I too have been wondering about the results of this problem. I wish folks would post how they and if they solved their problems. Not shifting and OD light flashing is not going to be fixed by that sensor on the pumpkin.
I was pulling a slight hill with a little CRX in tow. as I reach the top of the hill my light was blinking. thought that odd, cause I was crusing wit the big trucks at 35 OD off in snow. when I pulled over after the decent and turned the motor off and back on. it reset and was shifting just fine. pulled the codes later and I over heated the tranny. not srue how its a diesel and snow was on the ground. plus the car I was pulling dont make 2k. so needless to say I am milking my tranny till it dies. I even spit some tranny fluid out the vent tube. I have had it serviced just prior to the trip. what fun NOT.
but to this day its still working so far. course I dont use the truck that often.
I too have been wondering about the results of this problem. I wish folks would post how they and if they solved their problems. Not shifting and OD light flashing is not going to be fixed by that sensor on the pumpkin.
To answer both of you, I havent fixed the shifting problems yet. I was out of town for a week and wasnt driving the truck. last time I drove it after changing the sensor the light doesnt blink but it still has problems shifting. The guy I know at ford is in the middle of switching dearships so I am waiting on him to start at his new dealership, so I can have it looked at and then figure out which way to go (BTS or ford rebuilt) since it is still under warranty. I will post back when I figure out which way Im goin to go.
To answer both of you, I havent fixed the shifting problems yet. I was out of town for a week and wasnt driving the truck. last time I drove it after changing the sensor the light doesnt blink but it still has problems shifting. The guy I know at ford is in the middle of switching dearships so I am waiting on him to start at his new dealership, so I can have it looked at and then figure out which way to go (BTS or ford rebuilt) since it is still under warranty. I will post back when I figure out which way Im goin to go.
If it's under warranty and you're not using a performance chip that's a no-brainer. Let Ford fix it this time, but if they find out you have been using a performance chip or tuner of any sort, you're done and might as well go with the BTS if you can so afford.
If it's under warranty and you're not using a performance chip that's a no-brainer. Let Ford fix it this time, but if they find out you have been using a performance chip or tuner of any sort, you're done and might as well go with the BTS if you can so afford.
I am using a DP-tuner but will take it off when I take it in. I was thinking about the BTS because then Id never have to worry about it again.
I am using a DP-tuner but will take it off when I take it in. I was thinking about the BTS because then Id never have to worry about it again.
If the stealership is so inclined they're going to be able to tell if you've fooled with your PCM. If money is no object, and you plan on keeping the truck long enough, spring for the BTS. I'm on my 2nd budget rebuild and if I were younger I would have done it right. Should have the first time, but I did not know any better at the time.
I am using a DP-tuner but will take it off when I take it in. I was thinking about the BTS because then Id never have to worry about it again.
Take the battery cables off, then take the tuner off the PCM. Reconnect everything (make sure your gauges do a full sweep when you fire it up) and drive it around normally. If you don't put many miles on it in a day, you might do it a couple days in advance. My Ranger took about 20 miles for the PCM to "settle". Not sure about these. As long as they don't inpect the PCM itself (which they very well may), there shouldn't be an issue. It helps if you put that little black cover back on, too.
Take the battery cables off, then take the tuner off the PCM. Reconnect everything (make sure your gauges do a full sweep when you fire it up) and drive it around normally. If you don't put many miles on it in a day, you might do it a couple days in advance. My Ranger took about 20 miles for the PCM to "settle". Not sure about these. As long as they don't inpect the PCM itself (which they very well may), there shouldn't be an issue. It helps if you put that little black cover back on, too.
Of course what I was referring to, was physically inspecting it. Any other way of covering your tracks I'm unaware of.
Take the battery cables off, then take the tuner off the PCM. Reconnect everything (make sure your gauges do a full sweep when you fire it up) and drive it around normally. If you don't put many miles on it in a day, you might do it a couple days in advance. My Ranger took about 20 miles for the PCM to "settle". Not sure about these. As long as they don't inpect the PCM itself (which they very well may), there shouldn't be an issue. It helps if you put that little black cover back on, too.
I over heated the tranny. not srue how its a diesel and snow was on the ground. plus the car I was pulling dont make 2k.
The trans doesn't care if it's a diesel or gas, too much heat is too much heat.
Originally Posted by MTDewX
I even spit some tranny fluid out the vent tube. I have had it serviced just prior to the trip.
That leads me to believe that the trans was overfilled. If the fluid is too high the rotating parts of the trans will whip the fluid into a foam. All of this shearing of the fluid causes A LOT of heat, plus running at 35 MPH uphill in the snow means the torque converter is unlocked wiht a big load and causing A LOT of heat. All that means the trans will overheat and spit fluid out of the vent.
If it isn't overfilled now it probably won't overheat again.
Mark K
yeah that might as well be, but I thought running at 35 would be taking it easy and plus the honda CRX is not a heavy load.
oh well though its running ok now. being so far away from BTS or Woods, it is possible to get parts to rebuild my tranny to make it like theres? or is better to just buy theres? this is of course the 4 year plan if my tranny holds up
Mark K
yeah that might as well be, but I thought running at 35 would be taking it easy and plus the honda CRX is not a heavy load.
oh well though its running ok now. being so far away from BTS or Woods, it is possible to get parts to rebuild my tranny to make it like theres? or is better to just buy theres? this is of course the 4 year plan if my tranny holds up
It is not really the high speed freeway driving that heats up the trans. It is the slower speeds and shifting back and forth that causes the torque converter to generate heat, along with the trans... If you don't have a temp gauge for the trans and a cooler, you are going to have problems down the road... Heat is the number one killer of auto transmissions. I watch my temp gauge climb when pulling a load driving thru town, going thru afew stop lights.
It's not the shifting back and forth, it's the unlocked torque converter. But I think the root cause of this problem was that the trans was overfilled. That will cause A LOT of heat. It seems to me that it was overfilled because it spit some out of the vent. They usually only do that when they are overfilled.
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