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After talking to my local tranny dude, he said they would change the filter and look at the fluid, If the fluid looked bad they would flush it and "check" the tranny and put a diagnostic tool on it. Does this sound right. Not sure how many mile are on the trannys fluid. Should I replace the filter id "see" what the fluid looks like and go from there? Is there something else I can do my self?
I would like to learn more about the tranny, and maybe save some cash in the process. Dont get me wrong I will spend the money if needed.
After talking to my local tranny dude, he said they would change the filter and look at the fluid, If the fluid looked bad they would flush it and "check" the tranny and put a diagnostic tool on it. Does this sound right. Not sure how many mile are on the trannys fluid. Should I replace the filter id "see" what the fluid looks like and go from there? Is there something else I can do my self?
I would like to learn more about the tranny, and maybe save some cash in the process. Dont get me wrong I will spend the money if needed.
Thanks!
Should change ATF every 30k. I change the filter every other change. Here is a GREAT link to show you how:
I did this last week (after installing my shift kit). I made a mess in the driveway because I don't think I pumped enough out before adding more. I saw the bubbles and shut off the truck. Seemed like bubbles showed up in like 5-10 seconds, so that's all I did. The article says something like 30s, so keep that in mind. You might run it for a little longer than waiting for bubbles to show up, at least that's my experience.
After a week of "playing" with the kit installed, I have to call Jody and see about getting my tunes adjusted for the shift kit. The shifts seem like they're better while in the stock setting.
I saw the bubbles and shut off the truck. Seemed like bubbles showed up in like 5-10 seconds, so that's all I did. The article says something like 30s, so keep that in mind.
Sometimes you do get some small bubbles, then it should flow steady. When there is a big air bubble the pan is out of fluid and it's time to shut the engine off.
Sometimes you do get some small bubbles, then it should flow steady. When there is a big air bubble the pan is out of fluid and it's time to shut the engine off.
yeah, now I know for next time. I just didn't want to screw anything up -- it was my first time trying it this way. Plus, there were probably lots of air bubbles in the system to work out anyway since I had the VBs off. All this I thought of after the big puddle.
Well I have been doing mine at 20k I bought my truck used with 61k orignal tranny I have 87k now at 80k I did my tranny flush the fluid coming out was as clean as the new stuff I put back in. Im doing it again at 100k I rather be safe then sorry and being that the fluid really dosent cost that much the piece of mind is worth the price to me.
Well I have been doing mine at 20k I bought my truck used with 61k orignal tranny I have 87k now at 80k I did my tranny flush the fluid coming out was as clean as the new stuff I put back in. Im doing it again at 100k I rather be safe then sorry and being that the fluid really dosent cost that much the piece of mind is worth the price to me.
You did exactly what I did -- I bought mine at 60k and just went over 80. Here's what the fluid looked like while it was coming out:
It was nice & pretty red and didn't stink. Just get lots of fluid when you do it -- it holds 17 quarts:
Do it and do it now & heres why with factual backup evidence of why.
I bought mine at 60Kmiles, fresh from the dealer - supposedly fully serviced etc (they did NOTHING!)...
You can see from this Used Trans Fluid Analysis, that it is in real bad shape, high wear metals levels from friction clutch pack wear etc.
I ended up putting in a NEW pan filter.
The oil was brownish with all the burnt clutch material in it - the old filter had metal shavings etc in it from original breakin i.e. ford had never changed it since new despite the service book saying they had - i.e. they LIE!.
This is what happens to trans if you don't keep them COOL especially when towing.
I put in a BD Power deep pan with cooling fins for extra fuid capacity to help keep it cool.
In addition to the new filter I put in a new deep pan with cooling fins, as well as an auxilary transmission cooler radiator out front - and a Oilguard filter on the transmission line to catch any metal etc in the event of a torque converter failure.
Also put in a transmission temp gauge so I can monitor tranny temps.
Have had no problem with the tranny since all those measures and done a lot of heavy towing with it since then.
It pays to look after these transmissions - they are not cheap to repair or replace.
The fluid gets sheared when the transmission operates. That lowers it's viscosity, and that leads to more wear. There are also additives in the fluid that wear out even if the trans isn't overheated.
Dang. Now I wish I would've taken more pics. I got tired of cleaning my hands off to pick up the camera...
My pan magnet had some trash on it, but it wasn't that bad. Did your filter come with that bracket or is it part of the deep pan kit to keep it from falling off?
Marc --> I don't know how to accurately answer your question. But I will stick my neck out and say that the *chances* of a longer living tranny are much better if it's well maintained vs. "UH-OH!! My tranny is starting to slip and/or shift funny -- I better do a fluid change!!". And then blame the failed tranny on the new fluid. Like your motor oil, it eventually breaks down, and if it's doing it's job, it carries the impurities away from the "business parts" that inevitably end up in the fluid as a result of them doing their job (clutches engaging, gears meshing, etc). I don't think anyone will argue that keeping your fluid and tranny cooler won't extend it, but it's never a bad idea to change the stuff on the prescribed intervals. 30k is roughly two years for most of us, so $100 worth of Mobil1 at that rate is cheap insurance. That stuff handles whatever heat you do produce better, so it's better in the long run for the tranny. Keeping the shifts nice & short and the pressures where they're supposed to be (via PCM SW, shift kit, or other various methods) will do nothing but extend the life even more. If you can't tell, I'm a firm believer in syn fluids -- all of mine are now syn (except for the brake fluid -- but give me time... ). I think they're worth it based on the way my past vehicles have behaved vs. others that ran dino. YMMV. Literally.
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