Ok..here we go again (in a way)

We did the power steering gear box replacement today. Took most of the day and that beast is one heavy chunk of steel.

Now we did inspect things after the install, however we had to guess on the torque spec for the gear box to frame rail. We did it at 50 ftlbs for the torque. The haynes manual does not list the specs, just says to tighten to specs in the start of the chapter. Big Surprise--that spec was not listed. Reason I ask is that I did note while burping the system a bit of flex at the frame when the wheels where being turned. I'm not sure if it's normal or not? But last thing I need is to have the bolt holes rounded due to the box becoming loose. So would 50 ftlbs be considered good enough? More...Less?

Ok, next mystery. Had to dump the twisty cooler bit for the time being. I've got bulk line to custom fab up one. (had to do this before on our former car...) Filled the system, fittings good and tight--no leaks. Dumped in a qt. of ATF (type F) and proceeded to purge the system and get the air out. Now the fluid did become a bit foamy, which I did expect. So we purged it again..wheels left..right.. Several times. Pretty good steering. Topped off the fluid (still a bit foamy...figure that should go down over the next few days). However? We drove it out of the garage...good power steering. I drove it back into it's 'cubby hole' (due to city nonsense, we have to park it behind a fenced in area to keep it from getting 'tagged' for removal)..

At any rate. I noticed the power steering getting a bit wonky. It seem to kick in and out. And it got really stiff when I ran it back and forth when parked.

Could it be just a good sized air pocket bunging up the system? Maybe more purging needed? The new gear box fit like a glove. Even sprung for a new rag joint (the old one was soaked in fluid for a long while). We didn't notice any thing spilled/leaking. Granted the gear box has a lifetime warrenty, but I'd hate to have to drop that thing down again.

Just looking for ideas at this point. We won't be able to work on it again until probably Thursday or Friday. Hopefully the pump didn't take a dump on us. (then again..that'd be a lot easier to replace then the flippen gear box again)

S-

 

use power steering fluid, to quote masterbevis it is "more better" haha he is right

 

Well, I'm not quite at the point of flushing the pump/gear box again, at least not until I fab up a cooler line. It's had ATF in the system all it's life. Just concerned about the steering issue and the torque specs for the gear box to the frame. I've got a very nasty feeling that the gear box might be a dud...But I'll be working on it again to see what the deal is with it. Just looking for ideas on how to proceed.

S-

 

I've had a few steering boxs seem weird when first replaced so give it a few miles.
As to the torque, if your book doesn't give one it should have a section on standard torques for bolt size and strenght, go with that one.

 

Did you put a new pump on it too ?

 

steering gear to frame F-150-250 (4x4) 95-125 ft-lb
F-100-F-350 (4x2) 50-65 ft-lb
F-150 (4x4) bronco 60-85 ft-lb

pitman arm to steering gear (all) 170-230 ft-lb

 

Well..Looks like that torque should be fine for the time being. Once we get this one problem worked out, I'll re-torque down those bolts. Might help cure the slight frame distortion I watched when the washer fluid was removed for checking leaks. (Slight...sure..It was looking pretty much like twist-o-flex) Given the fact I've never watched to see how much flex and give the frame itself has while turning the wheels while sitting still? I've nothing to go on regarding a guideset. What the heck anyway...the steering gear is huge, and has more then enough torque available. On a dry wooden floor I'd expect some movement as it's being worked extremely hard. (bolt holes are round and not worn out...Might need to tighten the retaining bolts a bit more to firm it up more.)

As for the pump? No signs of any leakage or noises out of the normal. Guy down at Firestone helping me with tires for the over-width wheels mentioned it probably sucked down an airpocket and needs to work itself out. If bleeding out the air a 3rd time does not help? I'll pull the return hose and aim it into a waste oil can. Then we will just crank 'er over a few times and make sure we have flow.

This is turning out to be one huge project LOL. With all the pitfalls included.

S-

 

Jack it up and turn the wheels lock to lock 10 times or so, then start it. You may have damaged the pump if you started it and blead it. Also check for a froze up axle U joint, they can cause a sticky feeling also.

 

No axle in the front end to worry about. Just RWD. I filled the pump first and had my better half crank the engine a few times to give the pump a prime. Then we started it up and ran it l/r for a while..the pump quieted down nicely..and the power steering seemed to be working. I did note the fluid was "air-blown" (for lack of being able to spell the real word LOL) So having finished up for the day? We pulled it out and just parked it along the garage. The P/S started to get a bit choppy while moving it into the final space..

I'm thinking it's probably an air pocket that nailed itself in the system and needs to be bleed out a bit more. So we are giving it a few days for all the bubbles to go down, and I'll recheck the fluid again in a few more days (we can only work on it once--maybe twice a week as my schedule allows) While the pump itself is the factory one? It didn't make any oddball noises during this time...just the normal whine while purging it out. (and that stopped after a moment or two while doing the L/R bit)

If it doesn't improve next time we work on it? I'll go ahead and remove the return hose and point it into an oil container. Then just disable the ignition and crank it a few times to ensure the fluid is still flowing. Due to the parts store selling me the wrong pressure hose? (same ends and no kinks---however it rubs against the fender apron A LOT).. I will have to swap it out for the correct hose, and I have bulk steel line to fab up that cooler system.

We are hopeful that the gear box is good. While it does have a lifetime warr? I'd hate to have to remove that huge sucker again....

I'll know more in a few days when I can re-check the work and the fluid levels.

S-