Crewcab Only Thread.
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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Just out of curiousity.... How much would need to be removed from the front of the bed of a crewcab short-bed to fit it all on a standard cab long-bed frame? I have always thought about making an old-school super-crew but was nervous it wouldn't look right. Though the red one looks pretty cool but I would like to take some measurements first. I guess if someone knows the two wheel base lengths then all I have to due is remove about as much as the difference.
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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Cool, thanks! My current truck is a long-bed crewcab with a 167 wheelbase. I guess I would either need to chop 34" off the back and re-configure the curve of the frame or find a new frame to do that. Chopping the center out to shorten it is a big no-no. What is the wheel base of a supercab long-bed compared to the crewcabs? I'm just trying to picture things like parking-ability and turning radius. I live near San Francisco and full size longbed crewcabs aren't the most fun to navigate through these parts. Lifted 4x4 makes it even worse.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,172
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From: SW Missouri
I streteched mine in the middle, had a fabrication shop in Orangevale CA do it, they used 3/8 plate, and made an additional crossmember for the carrier bearing. if done correctly splicing in the middle is no big deal. all soda/beer trucks are made this way, many class 8 semis are shortened this way as well. there is no magic to a one piece frame, new trucks are made from modular frame sections as well. I added 33.5 to make a CC LB. and I have driven crewcab long beds all over the bay area for over a decade, I used to commute from Lincoln to Soquel. yes you have to plan your turns sometimes, but for me it was more ignorant civic drivers more than the streets. the plus of having a dually down there, is I can get back on the Bay Bridge on my own on ramp having 6 wheels, I cant remember the street, buts its down near pac bell park. usually saved me a few minutes each day.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
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From: gravel road ONTARIO
Originally Posted by RNOVRIT
Cool, thanks! My current truck is a long-bed crewcab with a 167 wheelbase. I guess I would either need to chop 34" off the back and re-configure the curve of the frame or find a new frame to do that. Chopping the center out to shorten it is a big no-no. What is the wheel base of a supercab long-bed compared to the crewcabs? I'm just trying to picture things like parking-ability and turning radius. I live near San Francisco and full size longbed crewcabs aren't the most fun to navigate through these parts. Lifted 4x4 makes it even worse.
Good luck with your adventure
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 225
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From: Richland, MO
I'm putting my '78 CC on a '92 dodge extended cab frame. The CC is a short bed, and I'm seriously considering stretching the frame to put a 8' bed on it. I just figured it'd be easier to mount the CC on the dodge frame rather than to make the cummins fit the ford frame. The dodge was 4WD, so everything was already there, and it seemed to make more sense. It will change the look underneath a little, like the one pic'd earlier here, but I can live with it.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 225
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From: Richland, MO
My thoughts exactly Chasetruck. If mine had been a 2WD, I'd have made the engine swap. Just didn't make as much sense to me to do all that work when it was already set up and ready on the dodge frame. The only issue I'm having at the moment is clearance for the I/C and A/C condenser. I'm Seriously considering moving the whole drivetrain back about 4" to give more room...Which nearly puts it back to mounting everything on the Ford frame. Viscous circle...
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Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
The I/C & A/C clearance on mine (Dodge has A/C so it will go on the ford with motor swap) are what kinda worries me.
I am running a 7.3L powerjoke IC because my 91 Dodge came without an IC. I know these IC's get REALLY tight behind the ford grill, but I have seen guys fit the stuff so I'm sure I'll figure out a way.
I might have to shave the back of the gill inserts, or possibly do a custon grill insert, but I'm not against either route. I've looked at it and looked at it and decided I won't be able to figure it out until I get the IC actually IN there and try and put the grill back over it.
I am running a 7.3L powerjoke IC because my 91 Dodge came without an IC. I know these IC's get REALLY tight behind the ford grill, but I have seen guys fit the stuff so I'm sure I'll figure out a way.
I might have to shave the back of the gill inserts, or possibly do a custon grill insert, but I'm not against either route. I've looked at it and looked at it and decided I won't be able to figure it out until I get the IC actually IN there and try and put the grill back over it.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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ChaseTruck - that IC will fit behind the ford grill insert. I shaved my just a bit, and only near the center. It sticks out about 1/2 inch from the shell, vs stock it is more flush. No-one notices (except some folks here aI bet!). One trick I heard of was to flip the I/C upside down, especially the Dodge - not sure about the Ford. Get the inlet and outlet up high, else you have to trim your inner fender liners to plumb the turbo and intake to that area way down low. If up high and above the fender liners you can fab less.
jon
jon
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 225
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From: Richland, MO
Originally Posted by jnordby
ChaseTruck - that IC will fit behind the ford grill insert. I shaved my just a bit, and only near the center. It sticks out about 1/2 inch from the shell, vs stock it is more flush. No-one notices (except some folks here aI bet!). One trick I heard of was to flip the I/C upside down, especially the Dodge - not sure about the Ford. Get the inlet and outlet up high, else you have to trim your inner fender liners to plumb the turbo and intake to that area way down low. If up high and above the fender liners you can fab less.
jon
jon
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,993
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
Originally Posted by jnordby
ChaseTruck - that IC will fit behind the ford grill insert. I shaved my just a bit, and only near the center. It sticks out about 1/2 inch from the shell, vs stock it is more flush. No-one notices (except some folks here aI bet!). One trick I heard of was to flip the I/C upside down, especially the Dodge - not sure about the Ford. Get the inlet and outlet up high, else you have to trim your inner fender liners to plumb the turbo and intake to that area way down low. If up high and above the fender liners you can fab less.
jon
jon
I don't reallu care about trimming the inner fenders as I am not sure I'm running them. I might go with a radius arm and coilover setup like the F-150 4wds in which case I'd do an engine cage and loose the inner fenders anyways.
Are you running A/C on your truck Jon? If so did the condensor and the IC fit up front?
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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No A/C yet. I kept the radiator support and inner fenders from a parted out 1979 that has all of it. I'll plumb it all in when I swap over, and fix my cut- inner fenders too! I can't swear to the condenser fit yet, but from what I can tell looking at both they will fit just fine.
jon
jon
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: western montana
the bronco is my daily driver in the future and will get the 400 back in it...a 320horse 420ft lb 400 that will get better mileage than the 429. They do that now.
thanks....The 429 will likely go into my 70 1/2 falcon as the engine is a 70 as well. Clone a sprint they made that year.
I really would like to know what options there are for putting the 435 in with the divorced transfer case....should be able to get a driveline from a wrecking yard?
thanks
thanks....The 429 will likely go into my 70 1/2 falcon as the engine is a 70 as well. Clone a sprint they made that year.
I really would like to know what options there are for putting the 435 in with the divorced transfer case....should be able to get a driveline from a wrecking yard?
thanks