Only if the single mark is lined up with the mark on the crank gear. If there is any doubt the chain is lined up on the crank then take it off and reset the cam and crank according to my post on the first page. Just as long as the keyway on the crank is at 11-12 o'clock none of the pistons will be at TDC and you can rotate the cams to line everything up. A 4.6 is done the same way except when you stretch out the chain both ends will look like l and you use those 2 links for the timing marks.

 

The reason I ask is because the chain marks line up with the marks on the phazers but they are just backwards from my understanding. The Right one(passenger side) Has the L lined up and the Left one (drivers side) has the R lined up. This is backwards isnt it?
And if so, how do I put them right? can I just rotated them clockwise to marks?

 

Thats ok the engine is just on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Like I said earlier, if there is any doubt take the chains off and retime it. You can turn the cams 180 degrees if the crank key is at 11 o'clock but don't force anything just to be safe.

 

Had ahead gasketleak. I got a new headgasket set and followed all the instructions to set the timing . ..Got the 1st cylinder tdc. . Put the two links on cam marks single on crank. Everything stayed on mark. .. rebuilt the rest of the motor. When I started the motor it was fine for about 4 miles then started running rough. figured i skipped a tooth because i reused the old tensioners. So back into the motor again. After opening the timing cover I could feel slack in the chain. So I got the new tensioners Redid the whole timing process again. when I turned the key I just got one clunk. And that's it. .so I took it apart and redid it all again and same thing. . One clunk. Motor doesn't turn over. Anyone have any ideas what went wrong

 

If the engine jumped time by even a decent amount, some valve(s) kissed piston(s) by the sounds of things.

 

Can you remove the chains and turn the crank so that the key is at the 12o'clock, then turn the camshaft until the lobe is in correct time, then put the chains and guides on for timing?

I ask because I removed the chains before putting the crank key at the 12 o'clock and need to get the pass side camshaft back into the correct timing lobe.

I am so lost here and can usually find am amswer but am having very little luck.

 

I have installed the chains with all new parts the motor will not stay timed I can crank motor over and start and it's out of time and then crank the motor over by hand and it will be in time I pulled timing cover off and chains are tight and it seems like everything is how it's suppose to be can any can help me

 

I have installed the chains with all new parts the motor will not stay timed I can crank motor over and start and it's out of time and then crank the motor over by hand and it will be in time I pulled timing cover off and chains are tight and it seems like everything is how it's suppose to be can any can help me I have something about timing block to reprogram timing but my cam gears have nothing attached like 4v 5.4

 

First question I have is did you remove the timing chains from the phasers without having the cam shaft locked in to position?

Second question if you did remove them without having them locked into position did you do both this way or did you have one side locked down?

 

no I had to reset cams so loosened all the bolts on both cams rotated into position and installed chains and retightened cams

 

k doesn't matter I checked timing by hand 3 times then started motor it's not right and lost oil pressure, I'm not goin to rebuild motor I'm either goin by used running motor (5.4) or swap motor and tranny not sure what motor will go with wiring harness

 

I'm thinking of setting this truck on back burner and getting the funds together to make it the only 1/2 ton 7.3 w/5 speed is this crazy

 

On my 2000 Expedition with the 5.4 Windsor with only 120,000 miles, I had to remove the cams after finding that there was very little, or no oil going to the top of the heads. I found all the oil ways plugged in the head, and drains to the bottom plugged also. I then found all the adjuster lifters were gummed up and sticking. I soaked them in mineral spirits, and then finished cleaning them with WD-40. By doing so the springs released and are working like new. I flushed under pressure oil ways with mineral spirits and ran long brass wire brushes thru the oil ways. All were ether plugged or close to it. I then pulled the crank mains and ran mineral spirits thru that oil way, and got them flowing. Reinstalled the caps and torqued to book spect. I then under pressure pushed 50 wt synthetic oil thru the oil pump mount till oil came out of all journals, that way no dry start. By the way barrings on mains had signs of wear, but were within spects, so I just reused them. I did all this without removing the motor from the truck. It was very tight working area but I managed somehow. I then install a new oil pump (Melling M176 High Volume) That was recommended by Melliing. So now I am at an impass, I need to set the timing and install new timing chains, Now that the crank and cams have been moved I have no clue how to get the crank and cams into there sweet spot to time the old girl. Advice Please!
By the way this engine does not have cam phasers. Hope one or some of you may be able to advise me. Thanks and God bless.

 

Read my posts on the first page to set the cam timing. Good luck and I hope your engine is ok.

 

Please I need your help of you cam send that page about Timing I would appreciate it