need help timimg a 5.4
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 29
From: Raleigh USA
I just installed a new timing chain kit (chains, crank gear, chain guide, and tensioners) on my 97 f150 5.4l i did not time the engine with cylinder 1 at tdc...the chain has black links. the cam gear mark is between the two black links and the crank gear marks r in the center of the single black link... because i did not do this with cylinder1 at tdc can i be 180 degrees off? like on exhaust cyle verse intake cyle? just wondering if something i did was wrong, truck will not start. its getting fuel...i change the plugs while i was at it. i erased all the ecu codes. ive gotten 2 pops turning it over i tried starting fluid, still no difference i havent checked spark but im more concerned if i failed at the timing install?
New User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
k i have a 2007 250 5.4 3v, i had to pull head to remove plug ground sleeve did tensioners timed as best i could usin paint markers, n it ran pretty good, month n half later its givin me codes 22 n 20 i think left n right timing n so ford told me do my phasers n so i pulled my valve covers n the passenger n driver side phazers look to be at diff degrees can send pictures to any one who might have an idea wat the phazers should be sittin at, right now the pass one is like 5-10 degrees before where the driver side is sittin
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: TX
Your signature speaks the truth; Lisle tool 65600 saved my butt!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 29
From: Raleigh USA
It prob could have saved 2000LLR350'S butt too. 2000 you need to pull both valve covers and the timing cover and re-time it. Guessing with paint markers is not the way to do it. Look back a few pages where I explained how to time a 5.4. The 3v is the same except there are 2 timing marks on each phaser. You either have a R and a line or a R and a L. The R and line phaser is the old style and should be replaced. You line up the 2 links with the R on the passenger side and L on the driver's side. When you get it timed take a pic and post it here and we can tell you if you are right.
New User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
hey 70of100 k when i said the paint marks i had the L and Rs marked i had a red line up the letter then a white line a 1/4 inch of of the red on each side and re-read my thread i am talkin about a 2007 3v 5.4l f250 w the timin phazers marked w an L n R on opposite side of the phazer, im hopin the position is just a matter of how everyone is sayin that the one side would be positioned at 12 o clock n the other at 1 kinda thing. Got new phazers in truck had a whole lot more torque
But it still seems to want to do the chuggle periodically, especially in in 4x4 n playin in the snow drifts
but lookin at the old phazer on the table my old paint marks from when i pulled the heads looked to be pretty damn close to each other aswell as the single llink on the chains looked to be pretty damn close to each other aswell
when i put the engine back together i turned it over by hand it took like 400 revolutions n at first it the chains both landed one tooth before the timing dots on the phazers then few more turns n they were a tooth after the dot then another like 20 turns n they both hit the timing dots bang on
But it still seems to want to do the chuggle periodically, especially in in 4x4 n playin in the snow drifts
but lookin at the old phazer on the table my old paint marks from when i pulled the heads looked to be pretty damn close to each other aswell as the single llink on the chains looked to be pretty damn close to each other aswell
when i put the engine back together i turned it over by hand it took like 400 revolutions n at first it the chains both landed one tooth before the timing dots on the phazers then few more turns n they were a tooth after the dot then another like 20 turns n they both hit the timing dots bang on
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 29
From: Raleigh USA
Um yeah I tried to read your post a couple of times. Guess I don't know how to read proper English. If yo had all the marks lined up when you put it back together then the cams are in time and are not the cause of the p0022 and p0020. Sounds like it needs more diagnostics than posting on forums can provide.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 866
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Hey all... I just want to make sure I did my timing correctly, can someone point out anything I did wrong. I'm working on a 1998 5.4L
I'm taking just the drivers side head off (to fix a blown plug) so of course I have to take both timing chains off.
My steps:
1) Put the crank in TDC
2) For each timing chain, I marked both of the chain links beside the cam mark
3) For each timing chain, I marked the chain link directly inline with the crank gear mark
As long as I put the timing chain in the exact same position according to the mark on the crank and cam gears... all is good... correct?!?
It sounds simple... I just don't want to be an idiot and overlook something easy.
I'm taking just the drivers side head off (to fix a blown plug) so of course I have to take both timing chains off.
My steps:
1) Put the crank in TDC
2) For each timing chain, I marked both of the chain links beside the cam mark
3) For each timing chain, I marked the chain link directly inline with the crank gear mark
As long as I put the timing chain in the exact same position according to the mark on the crank and cam gears... all is good... correct?!?
It sounds simple... I just don't want to be an idiot and overlook something easy.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 3
From: Chesapeake, Va.
As long as you do not move the crank you should be okay. You will need to use a cam holding device/tool before removing the cam chain so the valves do not hit the pistons. I have used vise grips on DOHC mororcycle engines with success. These are interference engines.
Ford cam tool

Pic won't paste. If you need the pic send me a PM and I'll email it.
Ford cam tool

Pic won't paste. If you need the pic send me a PM and I'll email it.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 866
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Sent PM... I went to napa, advance, auto zone, pep boys and they didn't have the tool so I didn't use a cam holding tool... the cams didn't move a ton when i took off the timing chains though.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 866
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
well im not sure if it worked out for me yet... hopefully i didn't screw this up. But I marked the crank gear to the timing chain, timing chain to the cam gear, cam gear to the cam shaft. logic tells me that if i don't move it and align it back to the marks then it should be like i never took everything apart??
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 12
From: SE Texas
Those tools are designed for use by dealer techs as a shortcut for warranty work to save labor time.
JL
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 3
From: Chesapeake, Va.
I have seen the crank and/or cams move due to valve spring pressire alone. On motorcycles I have used vice-grips often to prevent such movement. Ford seems to believe that the spring pressure on 1 cam will cause the engine to rotate and as the engine is an interference design the valves will get bent should that happens. I suppose that if they didn't have that warning DIYers and techs might just rotate the engine with the cams immobilized and bend a few valves and then try to get Ford to warrantee it.