alright ... i'll pick some up

 

a good rebuild will come with a warranty and though I don't know where you get reman. parts from...I've never had a problem and saved thousands over the years

 

............

 

????????????

 

Is it getting fuel at all? That's what the starting fluid recommendation is for. Is it getting spark at all? Get a spark tester and connect it to the coil lead for the distributor, and see if there's spark while cranking. If so, move on to fuel delivery issues. If not, check the TFI module and PIP. I looked at your site, and with that many fords around, you should at least have some gauges that will let you troubleshoot a few things that the EEC won't tell you about. Have you tried a KOEO test to see if it's complaining or functional at all? You're gonna get a butt load of codes because the engine isn't warm, but that'll tell you the EEC is functional, as long as you don't get the one for failed KAM or checksum error. The EEC will not prevent ignition spark, though. It WILL prevent pulses to the injectors, though, if it's DOA. But, you say you're getting the charge cycle for the fuel pump, so I don't think it's completely dead. Find out if you're actually getting pressure at the fuel rail, and make sure the FPR isn't dumping fuel into the intake. (just pull the vacuum line to the FPR and look for fuel) After that, TPS can inhibit injector pulses too. If it's indicating WOT to the EEC, the EEC won't let the injectors fire.

Good luck, and keep us posted on progress.

 

I used some quickstart and it fired up and ran fine,

let it run for a minute, shut it off, started fine after that, took it for a test drive, all the gauges look good on the panel, left it running for about half an hour and they still looked fine, everything seems to work good

I see I have a small exhaust leak up front, where the 2 pipes go into the first cat, or res ?

and I have a small oil leak from what appears to be comming from the oil pan (rusty) ... I heard thats common

 

now start changing all the fluids: oil, trans, new coolant, etc.

good you got it going.

flush brake lines and check them for rust.

check rear shackles for rust.

good luck.

 

Fantastic news that you breathed life back into another of the "9 out of 10" that keep going. X2 on what QL2 said. Give her a good blood transfusion on anything that holds or uses any kind of liquid. Won't hurt to completely flush the brake system if it's been sitting for a while. I went 140,000 (I put all but about 30 miles of it on there)before I ever pulled the cap on my brake master. That stuff was NASTY, but still workin. Topped off with fresh, bled, and repeated until it came out the bleeders clear. Takes a while, but you have no idea how nasty brake fluid can get, and it's worth the effort.

Get her warm and fuzzy, then pull codes. Let's get her runnin righteous. You won't regret it.

 

I took it for a longer test drive today,
check engine light stays on...
and there's a short or somthing in the dash (headlights flicker and go off and on)
but all the gauges were lining up where they should

 

rest the computer after you read codes.

could be headlight switch.