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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

CEL On?

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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 04:54 PM
  #46  
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How much of a b!tch is it to clean it out?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 05:00 PM
  #47  
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Not bad. Just run some brake parts cleaner (or something similar) through it. Don't be too agressive with it or you can tear a hole in the diaphram inside. It's not a surefire method and you might still need to get a new valve when all is said and done, but it's always better to try cleaning it before you replace it
 

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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 05:10 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Skandocious
Not bad. Just run some brake parts cleaner (or something similar) through it. Don't be too agressive with it or you can tear a hole in the diaphram inside. It's not a surefire method and you might still need to get a new valve when all is said and one, but it's always better to try cleaning it before you replace it
Exactly "if it aint broke, dont fix it" the only thing that will suck is gettin it off.. im sure once i do, ill figure out what i need to clean
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 05:49 AM
  #49  
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I have the exact same problem (code 33) on a 1989 F350 7.5L, but can't get the EGR valve off...should I really worry about it? I have a new EGR valve and would really like to swap them out, but don't have any ideas at this point (tried heat, PB Blaster, etc)
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 09:00 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Skandocious
Not bad. Just run some brake parts cleaner (or something similar) through it.

Not Really.

The problem on a bad EGR is usually packed layers of carbon that won't break down with brake parts cleaner that coat the valve and seat surfaces.

And it's very hard to scrape it out and still have a good functioning valve.

If it's a chunk of cinder causing the problem then you can sometimes get it out and have a well functioning valve.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 11:53 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by netscaner
Not Really.

The problem on a bad EGR is usually packed layers of carbon that won't break down with brake parts cleaner that coat the valve and seat surfaces.

And it's very hard to scrape it out and still have a good functioning valve.

If it's a chunk of cinder causing the problem then you can sometimes get it out and have a well functioning valve.
Uhh... Did you read the rest of my post?

Originally Posted by Skandocious
It's not a surefire method and you might still need to get a new valve when all is said and done, but it's always better to try cleaning it before you replace it
I already said that there's a good chance it wouldn't fix anything even if he cleaned, pretty much exactly what you just said...
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #52  
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Its only an 80 dollar part might as well just replace it, dont know yet. I talked to my bud from York Ford, he said the ony thing ill notice is the truck will ping at higher RPM's and under stress, i.e up hills, which i have noticed
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by NeXtras
Its only an 80 dollar part might as well just replace it, dont know yet.
Try cleaning it first. Might save you $80.

Originally Posted by NeXtras
I talked to my bud from York Ford, he said the ony thing ill notice is the truck will ping at higher RPM's and under stress, i.e up hills, which i have noticed
Ehh... Huh!? You're friend said it would ping at high RPMs if it's stuck shut?! The EGR is only open at idle and light throttle anyways... Tell your friend to explain his logic.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 12:47 PM
  #54  
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He works for ford, i think he knows what he's talking about, he;s worked there for over 30 years, if not more. He happens to have a 1994 Flareside 5.0 like me so i ask him about my problems with the truck
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 12:58 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by NeXtras
He works for ford, i think he knows what he's talking about, he;s worked there for over 30 years, if not more. He happens to have a 1994 Flareside 5.0 like me so i ask him about my problems with the truck
First of all, I never said he was wrong, I simply asked for him to explain his logic. But what he's saying doesn't make any sense since the EGR closes at high throttle anyways. So a stuck closed EGR would be EXACTLY the same as a normally operating EGR at high RPMs. Thats just the way the EGR works, no if's and's or but's about it.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 01:02 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Skandocious
First of all, I never said he was wrong, I simply asked for him to explain his logic. But what he's saying doesn't make any sense since the EGR closes at high throttle anyways. So a stuck closed EGR would be EXACTLY the same as a normally operating EGR at high RPMs. Thats just the way the EGR works, no if's and's or but's about it.
i know you didnt say he was wrong lol i just didnt question him.. it could be stuck half way or something i dunno, i just know it has a slight ping
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 01:30 PM
  #57  
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EGR is closed at idle and closed at wide open throttle. Most of street driving falls into the EGR active range, and can cause pinging if suck closed, especially at higher loads, i.e. up hill at part throttle.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 02:06 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by EPNCSU2006
EGR is closed at idle and closed at wide open throttle. Most of street driving falls into the EGR active range, and can cause pinging if suck closed, especially at higher loads, i.e. up hill at part throttle.
exactly what i (he) said
 
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