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If it's this hard for you to find 10 minutes to pull the codes, how on earth are you going to have time to fix the truck? To me, this whole thread is full of people trying to help you out in between you whining and making excuses.
Before this gets ugly, go read the codes! You can do it at night when it's dark out after your classes. As the prior posts have said, go to the fordfuelinjection.com site for instructions. Basically, all you have to do is run a ground wire to the self-test input pin which is under the hood right near the driver side hinge. Then hop in the driver's seat, turn the key to the on position, and start counting the number of times the check engine light flashes. You'll get a 3-digit code (if it's just one fault code) which you can look up and be done.
It could be the EGR related things already mentioned; might also be the throttle position sensor. It's a $34 part at autozone.
You've already spent more time typing threads into this forum than it would take you to pull the codes.
If invested in quick and easy access to codes (I found one at Murray's Discount) that 30 bucks will do good things for you not just now, but for a lot longer than a whole case of premium beer. A well cared for truck will run a long time.
A code reader takes the same amount of time as counting blinks, and can't do anything a paperclip won't do, other than possibly visually give a number on some of the better code readers. My theory has always been why pay for something you can get for free? You can still care for your truck the same, code reader or not....but I stray off topic...
I don't know if you guys have a knechts in your area, but I just go to them and they not only loan me their code reader, but they do it for me and tell me what I need to do. Takes about 5 minutes out of my life. Lunch time maybe?
Jeez guys give me a break, durring the week i have no time, the weekends i barely have time but just enough to do stuff. Im gunna get the codes soon, i didnt say i wasnt. Just gimme a few to get em and stop gettin retarded over it
didnt realize it, but Advanced Auto in Lynn will scan the codes for free, prob gunna do that saturday, im also gunna buy the code reader too, 30 bucks inst really a painful investment lol
didnt realize it, but Advanced Auto in Lynn will scan the codes for free, prob gunna do that saturday, im also gunna buy the code reader too, 30 bucks inst really a painful investment lol
Autozone could only do the newer (1997+) trucks, so it sounds like Advanced Auto is...more Advanced.
If they find out their code reader is also only for the newer OBD's, don't despair. Save the $30 for something else, and just run a hunk of wire from your negative terminal of the battery (or a good ground) to the self-test input plug and then follow the directions elsewhere in this thread. It's really easy, trust me!
There's a convenient ground wire provided in the self test port, so that you don't have to have a big long wire -- a simple paper clip will do. See this link for hookup instructions: http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html
If you are using the check engine light to count blinks, just leave out the test light/voltmeter pictured on that webpage linked to above.
An EGR valve stuck in the closed position is not going to cause any problems; just means it's not recirculating any exhaust back into the cylinders. Although if it's stuck in a partially opened position then it could start to cause problems with performance, since it's supposed to be closed WOT. I'd remove the valve and clean it for good measure.
EGR recirculates the inert / unburned exhaust back into the intake. It's done to lower the combustion temperature which has two benefits -- (1) it reduces the amount of NOx gas produced in the exhaust (on of the things they'll check during emissions testing) and (2) lower temperature means lower risk of knocking. If the EGR isn't operating, the engine will tend to have hotter exhaust, and the electronic engine control (EEC) module will then retard the timing (to avoid knocking). You'll have less power, lower fuel ecomony, and higher NOx emissions if EGR isn't working.
EGR should be closed at idle and closed at WOT.
The EGR valve can get stuck, and cleaning it can help. But first you ought to check to make sure it's getting vacuum when it's supposed to. There's a solenoid that provides vacuum to the EGR valve when instructed to by the EEC module.
There are several threads on EGR; do a search on this site and you'll get all the instruction you need. There's also a good site: www.fordfuelinjection.com
Cool, i know what EGR does hence Exhaust Gas Recirculation, I may need to replace mine. Now just so i know what im looking at is this the EGR in the pic here? Yes this is my engine
Yes sir thats your EGR valve with the EGR sensor mounted on top of it.
Bill what you're saying is absolutely correct. But I'm not sure if you're correct about a closed EGR causing loss of power and decreased gas mileage... I know lots of guys that have deleted their EGRs without any problems.
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