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I'd be wary of Ken's studs from DPS. There's been a handful of people having those things fail recently, as in driving down the road and pop, they break and pop out of the hole.
There may be a few other options on the horizon.
I'd rather do it the right way, not the wrong way...tsk tsk tsk.
A number of folks have used the drilled out hockey pucks with good results. It's about the only way short of stacking large fender washers to get 1". The available body lift kits are 2" and more .
I'm about to do the hockey pucks on mine when I pop the engine back in. I just want enough lift to be able to get under the thing on the road without having to either jack it up, or go on a diet.
The local machine shop should be able to make you some 2.5" square blocks of 1" material with a 1/2" hole drilled in the middle for a reasonable price.
The 2" kit I bought had 2.5" round x 2" tall urethane bushings that went between the cab and the top rubber bushing.
2" was more than I needed, and required other mods.
What other modifications were needed for a 2" lift beside the brake lines to the proportioning valve, and the steering shaft? Would you need to lower the radiator to align with the engine fan?
86crew4me
86 F350 Crewcab, 4x4, 6.9L, C-6, 4:56 Gears - Restoring
86 F250 Reg Cab, 4x4, 6.9L, C-6, 3:54 Gears - Thrown rod - On Hold
86 F250 Super Cab, 4x4, 6.9L, Manual trans, Banks turbo, G.V. O.D. - Rollover
86 F250 Reg Cab, 2wd, 7.5L, Manual trans - For Sale
93 Ford F150 Lightning - Black - Stock
64 Ford F100 - 400M, C-6 - Awaiting restoration
Brake lines were plenty long, no need to touch the proportioning valve.
Streering column had plenty of length to slide apart at the slip joint, just make sure it is not close to seperating.
I had to modify the E brake cable mounting bracket, the stock bracket stretched the front cable very tight.
I modified the fan shroud mounting location so it was 2" lower in the radiator.
Transfer case shifter needed some work to be able to shift into 2 high.
Body valance under the grill, if I did not have a snow plow which moved the front bumper out 2", the valance would have been into the bumper when it came up.
Since I have a dump bed, I did not use the bed lift part of the kit, so I can not comment on fuel fill hose modifications.
Thanks Dave,
I was thinking of doing the body lift to alleviate turbo installation clearances.
I have done a lift on an 1970 Bronco. There were similar issues to take into account. It's nice to hear that some issues on the F-series trucks are easily remedied.
Nope, the motor to firewall clearance does not change with a suspension lift.
It does with a body lift since the body goes up and the engine and frame do not move.
Dave again thanks. To fit the Banks turbo I'll be looking for is a 2" body lift followed by a 2" suspension lift. Wonder if that is even possible, should be. I want to put 33's under it and I plan on keeping this truck around for awhile might as well make it the way I would want it. It is one of the nicest stock F-250 I've seen around.
You use an ATS turbo, any trouble with the cab seam? Has it served you well?