In a couple of days I will be receiving a brand new banks turbo kit
It was supposed to get here right after Christmas but they had to build a turbo and the down pipe for the kit. All that aside, should I do anything to the engine before I install the turbo? The engine is a rebuilt with about 10,000 miles on it. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

 

A pyrometer and boost gauge would be nice to install with the turbo.

 

I beleive the Banks Kit still includes both guages?

Might look into getting a side piller pod for them?

 

fonefiddy, you are correct the banks kit comes with both gauges, which I plan to use for now untill I save up enough to buy isspro gauges to match the rest of the gauges already in the truck.
As far as the engine goes should I re-torque the heads or anything like that?

 

I'd think that if everything went well during the rebuild, your prolly OK.

You might want to look into lining up the tools, making a game plan for folding the cab seam out of the way? One of the biggest headaches when doing the install.

 

Are there any tricks to dealing with cab seam other than get a bigger hammer?

 

One word: SAWZALL.

Upon suggestion from the guys in the '94-97 Powerstroke forum, I made 4 cuts in the lip around the opening. One at either end and two in between (cut it into four roughly the same size pieces). Then I wedged an old piece of 2 1/4" exhaust pipe I had laying around and cranked on it a bit, and voila!

In fact after cutting it, it's been one of the easiest parts of my upgrade install.

Without cutting it...you'll NEVER get it bent back unless you have something like a port-a-power. Due to the curvature of the lip it's just too hard to bend.

 

A one inch body lift raises the cab enough that the cab seam is not an issue any more.

 

You could go ahead and turn your fuel up a couple of flats while you're waiting, just take it easy on the gas pedal till you get that pyrometer in.

If you still have stock exhaust, now is a great time to take care of that ittle annoyance before you go through all that work to get the turb on and find you don't get much boost. 3 1/2" or better and a straight through big truck muffler make a huge difference. I went 4" after the downpipe on mine, major difference in boost over stock exhaust.

 

Dude, Im still waiting for my turbo sidewinder kit from banks too. Should be here this week and I ordered it right after christmas. I was wondering the same thing about the heads.. From eairly posts, Im wondering if I should buy the toufher head studs and (if they make them) better gaskets. I was also wondering if the pistons were milled (don't know what I am talking about here besides shaving off the top of the pistions) if it would have any effect on more allowed boost without bending a rod or something. Maby even a head job? With this, I wonder How much more boost we could run safely??????? Anyone have any Ideas. Also, where do I go to have what trucks I have and posibly a picture posted below my post automaticly like most of yall like fondfiddy?????? I have to past the address to pictures and info after the post like this...


P.S-Dont mind my spelling cause I can't spell.

 

Where can you even get a 1" body lift anymore?

I was thinking about doing one on my truck, but I looked all over and all I see anymore is 2" and 3".

 

Right here

 

You might want to hold off bending the cab seam. I installed a Banks Turbo in my 93 F-250 and was about to start bashing the cab seam when I noticed that Banks had that all thought out. If you look closely at the heat shield on the turbo, you will notice a hairline crack in it which you can bend with your hands to avoid hitting the cab seam. Seems Banks thought of everything. Mine fits like a glove and the installation instructions were superb. Good luck and happy install. Tom

 

Tom D, thanks for the info. I will let everyone know how it goes once I get it installed.

FORD MEGA CAB, that's funny that we both ordered the kit at the same time and had the same question about the heads.

 

With ATS, the downpipe will not fit, 3" ID round pipe will not go in there.
The heat shield ATS uses is nomex, so it takes up less than 1/8".

7.3 head studs ....$675 plus shipping.

http://www.dps-performance.com/

As far as I know they are the only game in town.

I am running a set of his Stage 1 injectors in mine.

Milling the pistons lets you run more boost.
I took .020 off mine, head studs and am running mid 20's for boost numbers.
Stock head gaskets are fine, but everything has to be oil free so they seal as good as possible when you torque it together.

Now a bit more about milling the pistons.
Lowering the base compression ratio by milling the pistons does make the engine harder to start.
My glow plugs are manual, and in top notch condition.
I have started at -7 F, but that was pushing it without being plugged in.
Once it starts, I had to hit the switch for afterglow several times to keep it running for the first 30 seconds or so.

Also the bottom end torque does decrease a bit, enough to notice or at least I did.

EGT numbers go down some as well.

To go much higher than mid 20's there are more mods required, and we are taking dollars for stuff like O rings in the head gaskets.

Also the intake and exhaust gaskets need a little work, they were not designed to run that much pressure.
I blew one exhaust manifold gasket and the valley pan gasket playing with a Dodge one morning.

And last but not least, when you start standing on the loud pedal, you are reminded how much fun you had when you pull up to the fuel pumps.

If ya wanna play, ya gotta pay.