Notices
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Runs for 10 seconds

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
jmethe's Avatar
jmethe
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Runs for 10 seconds

I recently bought my first ford, and it would be my first diesel. I was tuning it all up with brakes, and an oil change. While I was breaking in the brakes it died. I can get it to start after a lot of cranking but with in a few seconds it dies. any suggestions on what to check. fuel pressures, glow plugs since I don't understand how those work? anything to help. my wife doesn't believe in old trucks and I am the oppisite. it is a 92 f-250 7.3
 
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:19 PM
  #2  
brownieboy525's Avatar
brownieboy525
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: south jersey
okay did you start the truck then it died after 10 seconds or was it running and died and you could not start it agian, did you get it to start and stay running again. was the engine sitting not running for a few hours?
 
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #3  
David85's Avatar
David85
Lead Driver
20 Year Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
You most likely have a fuel return curcuit air leak.

The fuel lines that return to the tank have several connections, sometimes the lines themselves can crack and leak, or the "O" rings under the plastic injector caps can weather over time and also leak.

This doesn't always mean that fuel will leak out from the connection, since the siphoning effect will tend to put air in as opposed to allowing fuel out. This will cause fuel to drain from the fuel filter back to the fuel tank, so the truck will start and run off the fuel still in the injector pump, but will die after the air from the filter reaches the injection system.

Look at the fuel lines that connect the injectors together, (not the steel lines) and see if they are painted grey, the caps may also have the same paint on them. If they are painted, then they have been there from factory, and should be replaced. A "fuel return line kit" should give you an inexpencive fix.

Also check the drain at the filter for signs of a fuel leak.
 
Reply
Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:22 PM
  #4  
Dave Sponaugle's Avatar
Dave Sponaugle
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Club FTE Silver Member

jmethe,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI forum.
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:07 AM
  #5  
jmethe's Avatar
jmethe
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Thanks

Will give that a look and try it
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:43 PM
  #6  
j-redsjeep's Avatar
j-redsjeep
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
i would agree with the air intrusion problem, they can cause allot of headackes. i would replace the injector caps if nothing else for maintanace reasons. the heating and cooling of them over time breaks them down. not to mention the switch to the USLD.
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 02:37 PM
  #7  
tbone91's Avatar
tbone91
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 597
Likes: 0
If it died while already running, you may have run out of fuel. How much does the gauge show? You might try switching to the other tank. The pickup tubes are known to fall off leaving you out of fuel with 1/4 to 1/3 of a tank left.
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 03:13 PM
  #8  
jmethe's Avatar
jmethe
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Is it worth it

I picked up some fuel hose and clamps, is it worth changing the injector seals too
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 03:16 PM
  #9  
David85's Avatar
David85
Lead Driver
20 Year Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Originally Posted by jmethe
I picked up some fuel hose and clamps, is it worth changing the injector seals too
The "O" rings under the fuel caps are the most likely to cause an air leak of all the parts mentioned.
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 03:47 PM
  #10  
tbone91's Avatar
tbone91
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 597
Likes: 0
It's best to buy the whole return line kit which includes hose, caps, and o-rings...
 
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 05:55 PM
  #11  
David85's Avatar
David85
Lead Driver
20 Year Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Originally Posted by tbone91
It's best to buy the whole return line kit which includes hose, caps, and o-rings...
What he said.....
 
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2007 | 03:18 PM
  #12  
hugger94's Avatar
hugger94
Tuned
20 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 5
I can truly agree with Tbone91. I have a 84 6.9L which had become increasing harder to get running... It seemed that if I waited more than four hours to start the beast, it would start, then die like it was out of fuel, then I would have to try multiple times at cranking to get it running. Once running it would run great.

I replaced all of the return lines, O rings, and plastic caps.... couldn't see where the copper washers were used so I didn't use them. I only had one O ring/plastic cap leak when I started it up. After replacing those O rings again.... everything is good, I think.

I will try again tonight to start the beast up after setting 24 hrs.

hugger94
 
Reply
Old Feb 22, 2008 | 01:18 AM
  #13  
twotonestepside's Avatar
twotonestepside
Junior User
20 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: California
i tried all this stuff on my truck and it ended up being the water seperator and i went and got a whole new setup from napa and put it on the fire wall and all my problems went away
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
651_F350_KR
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
26
Dec 31, 2013 01:26 PM
Red Rig
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jan 6, 2013 11:39 AM
Firedevil
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
8
Jan 31, 2010 07:54 PM
D.J
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
9
Jun 27, 2008 08:07 PM
briansrapier
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
5
Jul 2, 2006 08:59 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:17 AM.