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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Check Your Hood Latch!

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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 06:27 PM
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Check Your Hood Latch!

Hey guys, i'm new to FTE (but i'm glad i found it now). I'm afraid i had a bit of bad luck last week. I guess the 36 years of opening and slamming the hood did'nt do me any good. When you open a 72' hood latch(which i'm sure is the same on the 67'tru 72' ford trucks) the lever you pull on slowly bends and the peice that is affected is the safety catch. Over time the safety catch will bend enough that it will not hit the strike plate that is mounted on the radiator support. So needless to say the reason i'm writing this question is that now my hood is toast + 2 hood hinges (which i luckely had two new "old" ones in the shop), ooh and not to mention the minor body work that is needed on the top of the cab. And natrualy i can not find a new or used hood for my 72' anywhere. So if there is any advice or websites with new hoods i would be ever greatful of that.

Thanks...
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 06:38 PM
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Depending on where you live the 72 hoods are a dime a dozen and cheap. Or you could check with LMC.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 08:32 PM
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Shouldn't any hood from a 67-72 work on a '72? I found a great '71 to put on my '70.
Don't forget to look at Dennis Carpenter, Blue Oval Truckparts, National Parts Depot (NPD) and other FTE sponsors

Lastly, welcome to Ford Truck Enthusiasts.. the best resource for the best trucks.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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Yes, your right any 67'-72' hood will work. I've checked NPD, Blue Oval, and the Dennis Charpenter mag. but with no results...
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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my hood is toast + 2 hood hinges (which i luckely had two new "old" ones in the shop), ooh and not to mention the minor body work that is needed on the top of the cab.

Hi camboscams,

Some years back the exact same thing happened to me. I had to find a new hood and hood springs and like you said I had to repair the dent in the top of the truck. I thought at the time this was a nightmare but what it turned out to be was the start of the restoration on my old 68. Now I check to make sure the hood is totally latched all the time just to make sure it never happens again. It won't be hard to find a hood it is going to take time. Ride the back roads is what I did. I not only found a hood but about 15 or so trucks where I can get parts if I ever need them. Good Luck

68 Special
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 01:36 AM
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What happens is this: Ppl slam the hoods down. Over time, that bends the brace that the latch bolts to. Now the latch doesn't engage all the way, and sooner or later the hood will fly up.

When the lever of the hood latch gets bent, to open the hood, press down on the outside of the hood...then lift the lever. That makes it easier for the lever to release the latch.

The 67/72 hoods have had these problems since they were new.

The lever that opens the hood latch bends easy. The safety catches are weak. The hood hinges and springs are too weak to support the heavy hood.

The hoods are the same 1967/72: D0TZ-16612-A

The latches are the same 1967/72: C9TZ-16700-A

The hook type safety catch is only used in 1967/68: C7TZ-16892-A

There is no hook type safety catch used on 1969/72's. (I guess Ford wasn't selling enough hoods!).

What Ford did in 1969 (1970/72) was install a hood latch mounting plate on the cross brace. Now...instead of the latch bolting directly to the brace, it first bolts to the plate. The hood latch mounting plate is supposed to also act as a safety catch. It does...for a few years, then it bends, and now is next to worthless.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Jan 9, 2008 at 01:58 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 05:28 AM
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While there is truth in what Bill posted there is more than that, and it extends back further than this series truck. My hoods have popped to the safety latch for years and I thought it was just something that happened.

Dirt and rust are the biggest culprits, both the latch system and hinges need lubing and adjusting. I haven't had my hood (knock on wood) pop in over 10 years.

I recommend that you start with your favorite PB Blaster type spray at the hinges. Shoot them good in the joints and raise and lower the hood 20, 30, times if needed until the hood moves freely. You have to get the rust and gum out. Next spray the latch and repete locking and releasing until it moves easily. Now adjust the safety latch until it is straight and is catching.

There is no need to slam a hood, it weighs enough that when the hinges are moving freely it will close easily and the lock will catch with a firm push. You can also listen for the latch mech. to click in place. The deal is, release your latch and make sure the safety catch is in place. A yearly lubing should keep the hood in good working order for years to come.



John
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
When the lever of the hood latch gets bent, to open the hood, press down on the outside of the hood...then lift the lever. That makes it easier for the lever to release the latch.
Yup, been doing it that way for years. I set it up kinda tight, so you have to push down to unlatch. I had one blow open years ago on the highway. Not a good thing at 65 mph cause the hood is pretty wide and you CAN'T see around it! No real damage other then kink mark in center of hood and bent up hinges(and easy fix).

I always RECHECK my latch before walking away from hood. A simple grab and pull makes sure it's latched tight.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:19 AM
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my hood flew open the summer before last i looked every where for a "new" hood nobody makes them yet, i got 3 hoods now from a junk yard for spares
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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Yeah.. I looked too. No new hoods, but it is easy to find them in junk yards for a fair price.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by wizzard351
my hood flew open the summer before last i looked every where for a "new" hood nobody makes them yet, i got 3 hoods now from a junk yard for spares
In SoCal, dozens of these trucks go to the shreader every month.

Why?

No demand.

With all the rust free vehicles out here, trucks...especially made from 1957, are not nearly as popular as in the midwest and east. In fact, out here these trucks are a dime a dozen, are super cheap, and the demand is next to nil.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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Howdy camboscams, and welcome to FTE, I have had this happen to me a couple times also, most latest was new years eve of 04 in my 69 F250, as jowilker mentioned the main culpret of this happening is from not lubricating the hood latching system. when its dry it might not lock correctly.

the 67 to 72 hoods are the same externally and fit the same, however if you start looking them over close you will find differences in them from 69 to 70, 67 to 69 are carbon copy, also the 70 to 72 are, look at the inner sides and you will find squared hole openings in the 67 to 69 hoods, and 70 to 72 will have solid sides with 2 holes only for the side emblem nuts access with a socket & extention. also they changed the F O R D letters from 69 to 70. non reflective side emblem was 67 only, reflective side emblems was 68 to 72. just my 2 cents worth.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mrcman58
Howdy camboscams, and welcome to FTE, I have had this happen to me a couple times also, most latest was new years eve of 04 in my 69 F250, as jowilker mentioned the main culpret of this happening is from not lubricating the hood latching system. when its dry it might not lock correctly.

the 67 to 72 hoods are the same externally and fit the same, however if you start looking them over close you will find differences in them from 69 to 70, 67 to 69 are carbon copy, also the 70 to 72 are, look at the inner sides and you will find squared hole openings in the 67 to 69 hoods, and 70 to 72 will have solid sides with 2 holes only for the side emblem nuts access with a socket & extention. also they changed the F O R D letters from 69 to 70. non reflective side emblem was 67 only, reflective side emblems was 68 to 72. just my 2 cents worth.
The original hood: C7TZ-16612-A was replaced by Ford in 1970 with D0TZ-16612-A.

Ford updated part numbers all the time, regardless of the part number, the hoods still fit all the '67/72's.

The replacement hoods weren't drilled by Ford for emblems or letters. Only the marker lamp/nameplate combo on the hood sides that all the hoods came with, had holes drilled.

I still say, slamming the hoods caused the cross bar to bend down, once that happened it caused the latch bolted to it to sit further down, then it wouldn't work correctly. I have first hand knowledge of this latch problem. I don't know of any other person on this site that was a Ford partsman when these trucks were brand new.

This latch problem cropped up when the trucks were barely two years on the road, that's why Ford dropped the conventional safety catch used '67/68 in 1969 and added a lock plate instead (C9TZ-16900-A) to replace it. Ford also made slight changes in the latch, which still fits all the '67/72's.

None of this helped much.
 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Jan 10, 2008 at 02:49 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 11:34 PM
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Hi Bill, what you mentioned answers the question about one of my 70 ford F 350 trucks, when i bought it in 95 it had no anything on the hood, so i thought it was shaved, well it wasent. after looking closer i realised it never had any letters or emblems on it at all. so i guess it was a factory replacment hood. but slamming hoods especially when they are not lubricated well will bend parts like the cross bar and other parts aswell, i know preston had mentioned that there was a memo out on this problem when the trucks were fairly new.. thanks, Jess
 
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Old Sep 4, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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i have now joined the ranks of the those who have been slapped in the face with a hood at 60mph.
this morning at 5am going to work I75 north in mcdonough ga heavy traffic and WHAAAAM... jam on the brakes and get over hoping there is not a trackor trailer in the emergency lane!

nobody get hurt that is the only good thing..
 
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