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Locking hood release question

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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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Locking hood release question

OK, so I'm new to these vehicles. Mine's a 1978 F250 4x4.

The locking hood release. Intuition says it should be in the "in" position (handle closest to dash) when the hood is closed. Pull the handle, hood pops up to safety catch, I get that part. However, the one I got won't let the key turn unless it is in the "out" position.

How do these things work? Does shutting the hood pull the cable handle back in? Shouldn't the catch be held out of the way of the hood catch only as long as you're holding the release handle out, and a spring pull the handle back in once the handle is released? Should I have numbered these questions? lol

When I got the truck, it already had the cable version out at the hood, but there's a piece of metal attached to the broken cable end so I can reach through the grille to pull the cable. Don't like it. I've acquired a replacement unit for the handle/bracket/cable so I can have it work properly, but looking at and messing around with the replacement is just causing me confusion! I've tripped the latch, mimicking a closing hood, and can pull the cable out to "release" it, but the key won't come out, or even turn, with the handle "in".

What am I missing?
 

Last edited by hhight; Aug 28, 2014 at 06:34 PM. Reason: change some wording
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 07:34 PM
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Hopefully this will help. It's from the '79 owners manual.

 
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 08:17 PM
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That does help, thanks. Mine's working bass ackwards. Going to go play around with it some more.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 11:21 PM
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You know what's funny? The manual clearly states never lock the handle when it is pulled out. But I've done exactly that on my 78. All it does is not return fully to the seated locked position. But it still allows the hood to close and latch fully. I just got tired of having to use the key every time I wanted to open the hood to check the oil and other fluids. Yes I'm just that lazy and it would annoy the crap out of me. By the way to the OP. Where did you get a replacement hood cable for the hood lock?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 12:06 AM
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Locking hood latch used on 1973/79 F100/350's & 1978/79 Bronco's is the same.The locking hood cable is the same as 1975/80 Ford Granada/Mercury Monarch
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 12:12 AM
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Thanks Rich. But does anyone make replacements? And if so Who? I'd like to know in case mine ever breaks. That's my biggest fear. Cause then it'll be a real B***h to get the hood open.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 12:17 AM
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Not that I know of. I'd ditch the locking hood release set up all together, unless you live in crime riddled area and just have to have one to keep your truck from being stolen.

I'd hate to have a under the hood fire and have that cable break or have it locked......food for thought. Also a stuck/welded starter cylonoid and need to get the batt disconnected quick. Yikes.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 12:25 AM
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I agree, but to do away with a factory option just seems sacrilegious. I just wonder how many trucks even had this option?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 12:54 AM
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I have not seen that many in the one or two times I have looked at a ol Ford truck in a jy.....

I like the abiliy to pop a hood quick to get the jumper cables on a broke down chebby to get it outa my way on a trail.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 01:51 AM
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These are pretty easy to fix if the cable goes bad. Go to the bike shop and get some brake/shifter cable.


Here's one thread LINK Pay attention to post #21 by Gary Pettengill.
There's a link to his photos in that post.

Here's another...

LINK

There are other sources listed for the locking hood latches in the threads that I posted above. These pop up on ebay quite frequently, just make sure you get one for a pickup or Bronco...the van latch set up is way to short.

Make sure that you get a latch assembly that includes the anti-theft cover!
Part# 16B968

 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 05:14 AM
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That van one is to short, but I think it can be made to work?

I have a spare with key I will not use, just setting on a shelf getting dusty.

To remove part # 13B968 (cable/latch block off) the screw (part #56912 S) that goes in from/on the top has to be removed. PITA

The you have to wrestle the other end off a cable grommet to get access to the cable/latch if it breaks.

If you remove the grill insert it might be easier, but I doubt it. lol
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 06:30 AM
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What's really bad, is when you pop the hood to to check fluids and leave the keys setting on the inner fender, and not realizing that till after the hoods been shut.



Yep, my hood release stays in the unlocked position now!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 06:56 AM
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Just another reason mine stays on the shelf, thanks.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by paredneck33
You know what's funny? The manual clearly states never lock the handle when it is pulled out. But I've done exactly that on my 78. All it does is not return fully to the seated locked position. But it still allows the hood to close and latch fully. I just got tired of having to use the key every time I wanted to open the hood to check the oil and other fluids. Yes I'm just that lazy and it would annoy the crap out of me. By the way to the OP. Where did you get a replacement hood cable for the hood lock?
evilbay - few and far between when I was searching

Like I said, mine has the cable mechanism already on the truck, I got this for the cable/handle part. I'll check into bike cable as a replacement, not sure if the cable I got is any good, but messing around with it off the truck it worked. I need to clean the part up, lube it, and see if I can make it work as Ford intended. The lock cylinder comes out, there's the little hole like on an ignition lock cylinder. Maybe removing and reinstalling it I can set it to work properly. The key was in it when I got it, and wouldn't turn at all, nor would it come out until I pulled the handle out. Then again, maybe someone turned it with it out and now it's screwed up. I'll check it out after I do my chores.

I understand why people don't like them, but I don't know of any modern vehicle that doesn't have one. Maybe when they came out they were unreliable? More to the point, maybe one that's 37 or so years old is unreliable?

Which firewall hole were they run through?

Also, I read on another thread about these that people were lubing the new cable with something, forgot what. Graphite? Light oil? Silicone? WD40? Seems oil would gunk up.
 

Last edited by hhight; Aug 29, 2014 at 07:51 AM. Reason: add text
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 03:51 PM
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Ok, this one works correctly, just hard to shove it in all the way to lock it and remove the key, but it's right. Needed cleaning.

Thanks for all the input, folks!
 
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