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Engine stalls when headlights turned on

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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:10 AM
  #16  
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BareBones
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Izzy - I'm not so sure about the noise spike theory at this stage for several reasons. First, there's already one hell of a lot of EMI in an automobile environment already from the twenty thousand volts or so firing in each of the cylinders, and I've got to figure that the power circuits for the computers have provisions to filter out most if not all of the crud. Now of course maybe these HID's are just massively dirty and they are overwhelming the power filtration, but then it seems most other HID users would be experiencing the same problem.

Second, while a massive noise spike could definitely screw up the computer, it would probably then begin acting randomly, possibly screwing up the dash displays, etc., and maybe even re-booting in that situation, which isn't happening here.

Third, maybe you're right and it is the noise spike screwing with things, but the spike might be interfering with just a particular sensor, like the Throttle Position Sensor, rather than the entire computer.


So to me the noise spike is a major candidate for the problem, but its also possible that the alternator isn't up to speed and the brand new batteries aren't being charged properly. I.e., why were the batteries replaced in the first place?


Makes sense to me to follow through with the alternator output test since it won't cost anything but a little time, then we can eliminate it and focus on the noise spike.

As to replacing the harnesses, I think I'd first try firing up the lights one at a time, for a couple of reasons. If the problem is noise, maybe cutting it in half would decrease it to a level tolerable to the computer. But then also, while HID's may in general draw less than the OEM lights, there could nevertheless be a problem with one of these lights resulting in an abnormal initial draw. Maybe then this would show up as the engine continuing to stumble only for the driver's side light, but not the passenger, or whatever. It might also turn out that starting either light is okay, but not both simultaneously.

At this point though I've gotta say I'm with aldridgec so far.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:57 AM
  #17  
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Izzy351
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Well, I don't have "20kV" in my engine -- it's a diesel. But regardless, when the truck dies, the PCM is what's doing it. Mine definitely rebooted (all dash gauges went full-sweep for a second, then back), but it hasn't done that since I grounded the ungrounded case. What it has done (even recently) is not start at all until I cycle the key (when the auto-lights turn the headlights on right away), and has killed my truck occasionally when I turn them on. It more often just stumbles a little, and I can tell when it's not going to start because the glow plug cycle is excessively long.

Anyway, go ahead and check the alt -- when my batteries died, my alt died a few weeks later (weak batteries are an alt killer).
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 09:29 AM
  #18  
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cbrnflt - By your use of the word "stalling", do you mean the engine is dying, or that you have a momentary loss of power? And do your dash lights flash or go crazy?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #19  
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Yup, she dies and the "service", "wait to start" and other idiot lights come on just like when you turn the key to the on position. I've found that if I goose the throttle a little while she's running, then turn on the headlights, it will occasionally just stumble instead of shutting down. The batteries were replaced because of their unknown age and a trip across country. Didn't want to have any issues going 6K miles round trip.
BTW, it will die even just lighting up one headlight, the other completely disconnected from its power source. I've had a few e-mails back and forth with Xenon and so far they have just basically suggested stuff like a bad ground or isolating the power source for the bulbs. All of which I had done prior to even installing these lights.

Izzy, not trying to frustrate you about the concern over power draw. I understand that the HID's are drawing much less then the factory lighting, just making sure I don't miss something easy. I appreciate all the input and suggestions. Brainstorming will eventually lead to the solution.
I'm working 80+ hr weeks so just getting the time to write back has been tough, let alone be able to get to the lights themselves. Thanks to all you guys for the help!!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #20  
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Does it still die if you unplug both headlights? Do you still have the old headlights you could plug in to see if it dies with them as well. You said it dies with just one light plugged in. If you unplug that one and plug in the other one does it still die?

Just trying to help eliminate as many possibilities as possible before we assume it's HID related.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:31 PM
  #21  
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Izzy351
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
It's not frustrating me -- just trying be clear about what HIDs are. There is a lot of misunderstanding about them on the net (and even here on FTE). I'll try to get by my local electronics outlet tomorrow to pick up some ferrite and see if it helps.

Here's something sort of funny -- because of this thread I started my truck, then turned on the lights today and it didn't stumble at all. Oddly enough, I'm working on an injector noise issue I have with a radio (and a secondary one from the PCM), and I grounded the tail pipe in multiple places. I'm going to play with it some more and see if today was a fluke or grounding the tail pipe did something.

A little background about tailpipes... They are typically isolated from the grounded frame by the rubber mounts, so a lot of times electrical noises from the engine work off the tail pipe like an antenna. Ground it in a couple places, and it's no longer an antenna. The noise I'm battling got a little quieter, but it's still there. I have more tricks to try out for that, but I'll work on the lights this weekend and let you all know if ferrite fixes it. Here's a simple explanation of ferrite beads and why I think it'll fix it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:44 PM
  #22  
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you might also be interested in looking at a wiring harness to run the power directly off the battery using the headlight wiring only to trip the circuit.

It is a plug a play setup that will help to free up some power on the stock system.

http://dabears2k.com/product_info.ph...products_id=28
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 10:38 PM
  #23  
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Okay, after I made my last reply I got to thinking. I installed the drivers side headlight first when I initially got the kit. Powered up to make sure everything was good and wanted to see the output. That's when I first noticed the problems we've been discussing. I NEVER tried it with just the passenger side light hooked up, just assumed the problem would be the same.
I just went outside and pulled the low beam fuse from the drivers side fuse block (remember, I installed an accessory fuse block under hood for each battery plus individual relays for each beam). Lo and behold, no engine trouble when the passenger side HID lit up. I tried this multiple times and NO trouble. Grabbed a length of #14 wire and ran the drivers side Low beam power wire to the pass side block and viola! NO STALLING!!!! Not even a fart! One thing I did notice that I'd missed before, I had the pass side light disconnected from power, drivers side fuse in place and reproducing the engine problem. After the engine dies I flip the headlight switch back and forth several times (key still in run position, engine stopped) and I hear a clicking from the area near the GPR (single click each time the headlight switch is turned on). Now, it's freaking cold outside tonight so I didn't spend much time to investigate further, but I'm wondering if I've lost a ground somewhere near or with the GPR. I did replace the GPR before my cross country trip with the heavy duty unit that is on Guzzles homepage. Funny thing, the halogens I was running before never gave me a problem. Also, I have two of the four big KC's on this same fuse block. Well, for now I've got the symptoms fixed, now just have to get some daylight to investigate further.

Izzy, are your HID's being powered by the drivers side battery, pass side or both (like mine were)? I'd try going to the passenger side and see if this eliminates your trouble as well. I'm going to sleep now, got a 24hr shift to get to in the a.m. I'll post more when I get a chance to get under the hood again.
Thanks all, we got part of the problem solved!
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 08:12 AM
  #24  
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BareBones
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Congratulations.... Persistence pays!
 
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