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I have an 81 F150 with factory 300. I have 268K and it still runs just like it did when it only had 129k when I aquired it from my father. It has one annoying problem. It pings when I advance the timing to the point I get the accelaration where I think it should be. The weird thing is that it does not ping under a heavy load. I can get on it from a stop sign.. No ping but when I am crusing at highway speeds it will ping. As soon as I accellerate some more at highway speeds it will stop until I back off and try to hold a steady speed then the ping comes back. Any Ideas would be appreciated.
PS: at 268 K the engine has not been overhauled. I replaced a head gasket at 257K and was suprised to see cross hatching still visible on cylinder walls. This truck also has the original Clutch in it I have not done any work to it and Dad bought it new. My question is what is the most mileage you have heard of on a 300 six and or Clutch.
Don't abuse your I-6 by advancing timing to get more throttle reponse/acceleration. It's not a V-8, and with 200K plus miles it has earned better treatment. If you want more throttle response/acceleration, step up to a bigger carb or try side-gapping your plugs. That will do the trick. Your I-6 is made to pull and last, like a tractor. Check out performance mods at the clifford performance website if you want to make it faster without abusing it and eventually blowing the motor. Or, drop a V-8 in there instead.
Sounds to me like the timing is advanced too much(~6 degrees is best for a 300,) or the valve lash needs to be adjusted(not very likley.)As for teh crosshatch still being visible, it really sounds like the engine was re-done, or it was re-ringed, as the engine I pulled out of my truck only had 152 000 miles, and there is no trace of the crosshatch. As for high mileage on a 300, my neighbour has a 1981 F150 with 434 000 miles that has never been re-built, and other than it buring some oil(valve seals,) it runs like new, and having done all the matenance on it myself, I know it is well taken care of, I've never seen him push it past 65 mph(it's a farm truck), and he rarely lets anyone else drive it, I just put a new clutch in it Saturday. I highly doubt that I could make a clutch last that long.
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide
84 300-6
83 NP435(6.69 low)
Blue & Silver
Just out of curiosity, which transmission/rear axle ratio does your neighbor's barely-broken-in truck run?
The reason I'm curious is I changed to a 4.10 rear, and my truck's engine now turns 2700-3000 RPM freeway. I'm wondering how the higher operating range will affect longevity.
It's got a NP435 and 3.55 gears, turns about 2450 at 60 mph, if the gears really have something to do with it, mine would last a looong time if I wasn't going to get rid of my 2.73's(turns ~1900 at 60.) I'm going to a set of 3.55's to match the frontend I just got for it.
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide
84 300-6, 66 240 head
83 NP435(6.69 low)
Blue
My Father has owned the truck since it had 6 miles on it and I know the history. It has never been rebuilt.
>Sounds to me like the timing
>is advanced too much(~6 degrees
>is best for a 300,)
>or the valve lash needs
>to be adjusted(not very likley.)As
>for teh crosshatch still being
>visible, it really sounds like
>the engine was re-done, or
>it was re-ringed, as the
>engine I pulled out of
>my truck only had 152
>000 miles, and there is
>no trace of the crosshatch.
>As for high mileage on
>a 300, my neighbour has
>a 1981 F150 with 434
>000 miles that has never
>been re-built, and other than
>it buring some oil(valve seals,)
>it runs like new, and
>having done all the matenance
>on it myself, I know
>it is well taken care
>of, I've never seen him
>push it past 65 mph(it's
>a farm truck), and he
> rarely lets anyone else
>drive it, I just put
>a new clutch in it
>Saturday. I highly doubt that
>I could make a clutch
>last that long.
>Evan MacDonald
>82 F100 FlareSide
>84 300-6
>83 NP435(6.69 low)
>Blue & Silver
I am insulted... I would not do anything to hurt my truck. I don`t expect hot rod preformance. I do think that it should idle and accelerate smothly. If I advance the timeing I get both. When it pings I don`t drive it that way. I retard the timing so that it does not. I don`t have a timing light and have always had success timing other automobiles I own until they ping slightly under a heavy load the back off until it stops.
Once the engine developes some speed it pulls good. Even if I bog down the engine every cylender is pulling it load. I just can`t stop the rough idle. How does the egr valve affect the engine if it never opens up
I'm not really sure what effect the egr valve would have, I eliminated mine, but if that doesn't have something to do with the rough idle, check for a vacum leak, or, maybe the truck is running a bit lean(might also be causing the pinging)
Good luck
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide
84 300-6, 66 240 head
83 NP435(6.69 low)
Blue & Silver
The reason why your truck idles rough is the EGR valve is opened to much for idling speeds. My 1994 300 had the same rough idle problem that wouldn't go away. It is not the fault of the EGR valve solenoid but the actual EGR valve that attaches to the intake manifold. To make sure, take the EGR valve off and fill it with water. If it leaks water through the exhaust intake opening of the EGR valve, that is your problem. DON'T TRY TO FIX IT, JUST GET A NEW EGR VALVE!!!!! Also you might want to check the intake manifold charge sensor. Its a little sensor that sits on the number 1 cylinder's intake port of the intake manifold. Pull it out and see if it has alot of black gunk on it. If so replace it. This is a result of the EGR valve allowing to much exhaust gases in at all speeds. Once you do this the bad idle will go away and you will have smoother and more powerful launches. Gas mileage will also go up slightly. Also for your information the EGR system doesn't rob the engine of horsepower. Trust me on this, I bet you a new set of spark plugs this is why your truck idles so roughly. Let me know how things go!!!!
I have the same year truck as you. I also have experienced the pinging problem (who hasn't?). My timing is set to the factory specs of 10* BTDC and I am running bosch platnium plugs.
The only thing that keeps the ping monsters away is the 93 octane fuel i feed her. The 87 and 89 octane just don't work on the higher mileage engines (carbon build-up). It costs me 20 cents more per gallon, but my 300 CUBIC INCH is worth it!
My EGR valve has been removed for over 15 years now. If you do decide to replace your EGR....DO NOT TOSS IT....you need the factory numbers from it to get an exact replacement.
Try spraying some carb cleaner around the base of the carb and EGR valve base while the engine is ideling. Listen for any increases in RPMs and smoothness. That carb is known to loosen up at the base.
1981 F-150 2WD STYLESIDE P/U
4.9L 1 BBL CARB
C6 AUTO
2.73:1 LIMITED SLIP REAR AXLE
STABILIZER BARS FRONT & REAR
6100 LB GVWR PACKAGE
ORIGINAL OWNER
190,000 PLUS MILES
100% STOCK & UNREBUILT
BUILT FORD TOUGH!!!
a few posts up this list somebody posted that, the motor had to have been rebuilt, becasue of the cross hatch, still visible. well the cross hatch will show up after many miles, my motor has
172,000 ORIGINAL miles, and i also have recently replaced the head gasket, my cross hatch is still visible.
John Floyd
South Mills,NC
'86 F150 2wd 300 6
Crane Cam 260/272
stock manifolds, w/ staight pipe