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Have a 91 Explorer 4x4 - am trying to remove rotors to get them turned. My crappy Chiltons manual only has a picture showing pulling the key holding the bearing adjusting nut in position, but says nothing as to how to actually remove it. there's a picture for the 93-90 showing what looks like a dental pic used to catch the lip of the key, but I sure couldn't get it off that way! Tried both sides - same results.
Anyone have any ideas how to get this apart?? I had to do a quick brake pad replacement cause the wife needed her car, but the rotors badly need turning - the old pads were on ther WAY too long!
cotter pin pushes thru a hole in the shaft and other ends are bent over. straighten the outer two ends, then grab the ball end with needle nose pliers or a pointed hook and pry it out, -- reomve the sheetmetal cover--- remove the bearing nut............ im not sure about the 91, but most 4 x4 have the bearing/ hub unit as an assembly, and the brake disc just slides over the 5 studs, you dont have to remove the nut to get disc off, the nut holds the alxe into the hub.?????
Getting that little bugger out of there is the hard part. If I recall correctly (been a while) you need to back off the big nut just a little to free the keeper pin. I used an old screwdriver and a hammer to back off the nut. It was not very tight.
Here's a link that might help. It is actually instructions for converting to manual hubs but the proucedure is the same. There are at least two places that sell Warn hubs that have step-by-step instructions with pictures but I can't seem to find them right now. Perhaps a search for Warn Manual Hubs 1991 Explorer will turn them up.
I have a hub socket, & I've tried moving the nut to ease tension, to no avail - just can't get it loose. I wonder if the picks aren't strong enough. Hopefully I'll have time over the holidays to get it apart. Thanks for the leads, ulysses - I'll see what I else can find on that search - explorer4x4.com helped!
The Gen 1 explorers have the hub as part of the rotor, when you change the rotor plan on installing new bearings. If you still have the autohubs, wash all the old grease out and lightly(real light) coat before installing.
Another method is to use a strong magnet (old car speaker perhaps) but I didn't have any luck with the magnet method. I made a hook from a paper clip. If you can somehow clean out the grease (carb cleaner maybe) from around the keeper it might help. If you can't move the big nut in the unscrew direction perhaps tightening it a tiny bit might free the keeper. I don't recall there being any "lip" on the key--I just got my paper clip thingy behind it.
I've done this on four axles. Sooner or later you'll get it.
I'm HOPING I can just get them turned - they were replaced about 5 years ago. I'll try again when I get more time - this unfortunately is our primary car, plus the one my wife drives daily. Thanks for the tips!
are you still taling about the cotter pin thru the axle nut? straighten the two legs on the opposite side of the loop with pliers. push out to expose the loop. grab it with needle nose pliers thru the loop, or grab the outside with wire cutters and pry aginst the nut and yank it out. sometimes they get damaged, you can get a new one at Auto Zone for a quarter.
New rotors are not very expensive. It's quicker, easier and not a whole lot more expensive to just replace rather than cart the old rotors somewhere to get turned. If they are warped, turning likely won't help anyway.
are you still taling about the cotter pin thru the axle nut? straighten the two legs on the opposite side of the loop with pliers. push out to expose the loop. grab it with needle nose pliers thru the loop, or grab the outside with wire cutters and pry aginst the nut and yank it out. sometimes they get damaged, you can get a new one at Auto Zone for a quarter.
OP has a '91 4X4. On this particular axle there is no cotter pin. There is a small wedge of steel similar to a sheer pin on a small engine's flywheel. This wedge fits into a slot and keeps the spindle nut from turning after it has been torqued properly. I think there may be a cotter pin on the 2WD axles but I'm not sure.
modeltford: unfortunately the illustrated instructions I refered to are no longer online. There were at www.4x4cyberstore.com. They probably wouldn't tell you anything you don't already know anyway. Also, I have two Hayne's manuals for Explorers and the one for 91-95 seems to be a lot easier to understand for the early Explorers than the manual that covers 91-2001. Just tried to cover too much in one manual I think.
BTW modeltford if you convert to manual hubs you won't ever have to mess with that keeper pin again--you'll get to throw it away
steve (ill) - Bearing nut not same on 4x4 as 2wd, The axle shaft extends thru the spindle into a hub. the nut has a keeper of some sort - depending on the vehicle - the early explorer with auto-lock hubs has a square pin that slides into a keyway - this is what I'm having trouble removing. Basically what Ulysses said! The 2wd I believe use the cotter pin style - like most 2wds
Ulysses - I've thought about replacing the hubs, but we're replacing it in a few months anyway - has over 250K miles - and do like the convenience of the autolock when we do need 4WD!
Mason - I checked, turn is $15 each, new is $30, so not a big deal - & I gottta remove them either way! Local Napa has machine shop & new in stock - easy to make the decision when I find out how bad they really are!