Engine won't turn over?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,806
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
With out a good ground it will keep every thing from working. If you still do not have lights, check the ground at the block and battery again. Once you get your lights to start working again, my guess is that it may start on up. Lights take very little current to operate when compaired to a starter. So if you can not drive lights, you want have enough currect available to start the motor.
Last edited by blue68f100; Dec 10, 2007 at 08:49 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
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From: Louisiana
I understand what your saying.
I wasn't getting any juice from the battery to run lights, so I knew it wouldn't start, but I didn't know why. I still don't know the exact reason, but it has something to do with my possitive battery cable, and possibly a old/getting bad solenoid.
I did get it to start, and it started fine(better than it has ever started since I owned it, I'll see if it keeps starting fine.
I wasn't getting any juice from the battery to run lights, so I knew it wouldn't start, but I didn't know why. I still don't know the exact reason, but it has something to do with my possitive battery cable, and possibly a old/getting bad solenoid.
I did get it to start, and it started fine(better than it has ever started since I owned it, I'll see if it keeps starting fine.
Last edited by MBBFord; Dec 10, 2007 at 11:47 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Most people think their electrical problem is always the POSITIVE side of electrical equation. (BAD thought !)
The electrical system NEEDS the ground to Complete the circuit.
The contact area between the metal points can corrode and defeat grounding ability.
Even just a remove and clean then secure it sometime good enough.
But it is recommended to get as close to the starter as possible.
Grounding cable spots
Battery to block
Block to firewall
Firewall to hood
Cab to frame
Lighting harness to frame
The electrical system NEEDS the ground to Complete the circuit.
The contact area between the metal points can corrode and defeat grounding ability.
Even just a remove and clean then secure it sometime good enough.
But it is recommended to get as close to the starter as possible.
Grounding cable spots
Battery to block
Block to firewall
Firewall to hood
Cab to frame
Lighting harness to frame
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Evansville, IN
Originally Posted by MBBFord
...and it seems after it gets hot and I turn it off, it doesn't want to start after that. Could that be the ignition box...
In my recent similar experience (spring 06) it was the Control Module-Ignition. The one I had was only about a year old so I didn't suspect it. After trying a number of things, I gave up and took it to a mechanic who replaced it with one from NAPA and it's started fine every time since.
If the above is bad, you can take it off the fender and look at the back. The box is like a bowl with the electronics in a kind of goop, for lack of a better term. Anyway, the goop is normally hard. So if it is soft or looks like it may have softened at some point and rehardened then it's time to buy a new one. This is not a foolproof test though as I was fooled the last time by my box looking normal. I've replaced 3 over the years and 2 of those the goop was soft.
As far as the lights and starter...what everyone else has said about making sure you have a good ground is right. If you wacked the solenoid and started the truck, I'd be replacing that too.
Dave
'79 F150/351
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