) then your solenoid is bad
Engine won't turn over?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
Engine won't turn over?
Ok, 79 w/ a 400. The horn works, but the lights and radio don't.
Turn the key, and it doesn't attempt to tun over(a tick sound).
I had a problem with the NSS a while ago, but it is good now.
Battery is brand new
The ignition module(brain box) is fairly new(less than 200 miles on it)
Starter is new(less than 50 miles)
I didn't touch any wiring lately.
I've tried a few things, but I'm out of ideas.
I'm thinking it could be wiring and something to do with the coil or solenoid?
If you guys could through around some ideas, that'd be great.
Turn the key, and it doesn't attempt to tun over(a tick sound).
I had a problem with the NSS a while ago, but it is good now.
Battery is brand new
The ignition module(brain box) is fairly new(less than 200 miles on it)
Starter is new(less than 50 miles)
I didn't touch any wiring lately.
I've tried a few things, but I'm out of ideas.
I'm thinking it could be wiring and something to do with the coil or solenoid?
If you guys could through around some ideas, that'd be great.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: lower Michigan
If no lights or radio are coming on, check for loose or corroded battery connections, and verify a good engine and chassis ground to battery. Check the cable connections on the starter solenoid, this stud can loosen or corrode.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by 77f150got_sand
If no lights or radio are coming on, check for loose or corroded battery connections, and verify a good engine and chassis ground to battery. Check the cable connections on the starter solenoid, this stud can loosen or corrode.
The connections on the solenoid are good too. I have had the similar problems when the screws on the solenoid were loose, but they're tight......
Could the ignition switch have anything to do with this?
How does the screw driver thing work?
Keep the ideas coming, thanks for the comments so far guys.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 245
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
I would check the battery and cables. Don't go by looks, you can not tell that way. remove the leads and check for oxidation. If it's not the cable connections it's the battery, dead. Charge up then see if every thing works if so, have your charging system checked. A new battery is not fully charged, and you can get a bad one. Take nothing for granted. When ever you get your lights to work the starter probably will too.
The screw driver trick by passes the ignition switch. By shorting the battery lug to the small post right next to it.
The screw driver trick by passes the ignition switch. By shorting the battery lug to the small post right next to it.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 448
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From: Winnfield,La.
If you have no lights at all I tend to lean toward a non charged bat. or a restriction in the wires from the battery,they do at times get a large growth of the green crud. If you have a meter check the resistance,or look for a large bulge in the wire,at any rate I think you just simply are not getting flow. JNT
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
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From: Northern Illinois
Originally Posted by just-n-time
If you have no lights at all I tend to lean toward a non charged bat. or a restriction in the wires from the battery,they do at times get a large growth of the green crud. If you have a meter check the resistance,or look for a large bulge in the wire,at any rate I think you just simply are not getting flow. JNT
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IMO one should always use a remote starter switch or jumper wire instead of a screwdriver or pliers.
The arcing can cause a starter relay to go bad.
Always have the battery fully charged with battery charger before trying to diagnose electrical problems.
Battery Cables themselves can corrode underneath the insulation causing continuity problems
If the starter won't crank using the method pictured below.
Try a booster cable from the battery post to the starter lug directly
The arcing can cause a starter relay to go bad.
Always have the battery fully charged with battery charger before trying to diagnose electrical problems.
Battery Cables themselves can corrode underneath the insulation causing continuity problems
If the starter won't crank using the method pictured below.
Try a booster cable from the battery post to the starter lug directly
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,323
Likes: 2
From: Montana Territory
When my solenoid went out I didn't have power to anything... this last round of fun was due to a bad cable end at the starter.
I've got a blown out rear main seal to fix now... I can assure you I'm getting sick of fixing this thing...
I have seriously lengthed the time between repairs on the truck by driving the Jeep more...
I've got a blown out rear main seal to fix now... I can assure you I'm getting sick of fixing this thing...
I have seriously lengthed the time between repairs on the truck by driving the Jeep more...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
Ok....
There is no corrision on the lead clamps or post, but there is a very good possiblity there is some under the insulation on the wires(thinking the possitive one). There is a small open section of cable w/out insulation, but I cleaned up up and sprayed battery cleaner and protector on it, but that doesn't mean it isn't corroded further down in the insulation.
The battery in there was old, so I charged it and tried.... nothing.
I figured it had a dead cell.
I bought a new battery for another vehical(plenty big enough to crank it)about a month ago, charged it(didn't need it, but did anyway), and put it in..... still nothing.
I'll try to use the solenoid off my 77 to see if that's the problem after I try jumping it(thanks for the picture).
Thanks for the help guys.
There is no corrision on the lead clamps or post, but there is a very good possiblity there is some under the insulation on the wires(thinking the possitive one). There is a small open section of cable w/out insulation, but I cleaned up up and sprayed battery cleaner and protector on it, but that doesn't mean it isn't corroded further down in the insulation.
The battery in there was old, so I charged it and tried.... nothing.
I figured it had a dead cell.
I bought a new battery for another vehical(plenty big enough to crank it)about a month ago, charged it(didn't need it, but did anyway), and put it in..... still nothing.
I'll try to use the solenoid off my 77 to see if that's the problem after I try jumping it(thanks for the picture).
Thanks for the help guys.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
I put the old battery back in after a charge, and messing with a few things.
I was getting frustraited, and I remember someone saying possibly giving the solenoid a wack...... well, I wacked a few things, and clean up what looked like a ok cable(possitive battery cable) just a little bit with a wire brush, and it started like there was never even a problem.
I tried several things several different times to try and figure this thing out, and I still don't know what the exact reason is that it is doing this. I will replace the battery cable and if the problem doesn't rise again, I guess that's the only problem.
Any way, thanks a lot for the help and suggestions.
This isn't the first time it's done it to me, and it seems after it gets hot and I turn it off, it doesn't want to start after that. Could that be the ignition box, solenoid, or starter? The solenoid is the only thing that isn't new....should I just replace it to rule it out(it isn't expensive)?
I was getting frustraited, and I remember someone saying possibly giving the solenoid a wack...... well, I wacked a few things, and clean up what looked like a ok cable(possitive battery cable) just a little bit with a wire brush, and it started like there was never even a problem.
I tried several things several different times to try and figure this thing out, and I still don't know what the exact reason is that it is doing this. I will replace the battery cable and if the problem doesn't rise again, I guess that's the only problem.
Any way, thanks a lot for the help and suggestions.
This isn't the first time it's done it to me, and it seems after it gets hot and I turn it off, it doesn't want to start after that. Could that be the ignition box, solenoid, or starter? The solenoid is the only thing that isn't new....should I just replace it to rule it out(it isn't expensive)?
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 8,542
Likes: 5
From: Louisiana
Ok, but what will cleaning the negative battery cable ground do?
I believe I'm going to try and get a starter heat wrap to add to the sheild I already have.
I didn't do much of anything yesterday other than hit a few things, and steel wire brush the cable just a little bit, and the truck turned over better than the it ever did(in the past year).
Again, thanks for all the help.
So Mil1ion, your saying take the ground off the block and unbolt one of the starter bolts and bolt it there?
I believe I'm going to try and get a starter heat wrap to add to the sheild I already have.
I didn't do much of anything yesterday other than hit a few things, and steel wire brush the cable just a little bit, and the truck turned over better than the it ever did(in the past year).
Again, thanks for all the help.
So Mil1ion, your saying take the ground off the block and unbolt one of the starter bolts and bolt it there?