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It's was -8F last night, forgot to plug in. The truck fired up this morning when it was 18F and then stopped running. Now I don't even get the WTS light. I have one of the huge gpr from mouser, I'm going to put that in. Would that cause my WTS light to stop coming on? I also do not hear anything when I turn the key, used to hear sound. Your help is appreciated
Did you crank on it before plugging it in and possibly end up with a lot of fuel in the oil? I did that last winter and had the same symptoms. Changed the oil and all was fine.
I'm almost certain that your fuel bowl heater element shorted and blew fuse #30 under the dash by your knees. The problem is that fuse #30 also protects the PCM relay, and if the PCM doesn't get power, nothing's gonna work (injectors won't fire since they're electronically controlled). That's why you're not getting a WTS light and it'll just crank and crank as no fuel is beign injected.
First unplug the little plug on the back of the fuel bowl, where you change the fuel filter, so that the shorted element doesn't get power and blow the fuse again, and then replace the fuse and you should be good to go until you can replace the element.
There's a thread or two here that has some good info on replacing/repairing the element if you do a search...
I'm almost certain that your fuel bowl heater element shorted and blew fuse #30 under the dash by your knees. The problem is that fuse #30 also protects the PCM relay, and if the PCM doesn't get power, nothing's gonna work (injectors won't fire since they're electronically controlled). That's why you're not getting a WTS light and it'll just crank and crank as no fuel is beign injected.
First unplug the little plug on the back of the fuel bowl, where you change the fuel filter, so that the shorted element doesn't get power and blow the fuse again, and then replace the fuse and you should be good to go until you can replace the element.
There's a thread or two here that has some good info on replacing/repairing the element if you do a search...
You, where absoulutly correct #30 fuse, thanks.
Last edited by ryaneverk2; Dec 6, 2007 at 12:47 PM.
Reason: fixed messed up link code
I'm almost certain that your fuel bowl heater element shorted and blew fuse #30 under the dash by your knees. The problem is that fuse #30 also protects the PCM relay, and if the PCM doesn't get power, nothing's gonna work (injectors won't fire since they're electronically controlled). That's why you're not getting a WTS light and it'll just crank and crank as no fuel is beign injected.
First unplug the little plug on the back of the fuel bowl, where you change the fuel filter, so that the shorted element doesn't get power and blow the fuse again, and then replace the fuse and you should be good to go until you can replace the element.
There's a thread or two here that has some good info on replacing/repairing the element if you do a search...
Ok, I have the same exact problem only I haven't blown a #30 under the dash. Instead I'm repeatedly blowing the #20 fuse under the hood which I believe is for the PCM Power. When I get another round of fuses I'll try unplugging the heater element on the fuel bowl just to see what happens but advice would be greatly apreciated.
OK, PLEASE HELP ASAP! I tried pulling the fuel bowl heater element connection and put a new 20A fuse under the hood but as soon as I turned the key it blew the new fuse. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
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