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I have a 2000 7.3psd i tried to use a manual boost control but can't get past stock 8psi the electric back presure valve opens at 8psi how do i make it open later.
There is no manual boost controller on the 7.3L, and what you are refering to the electric backpressure valve is actually the wastegate actuator (which is not technically electric BTW, it's controlled by air pressure and a spring/valve setup). It is normal for the wastegate to begin opening with as little as 5 psi of boost, since that's what the PCM commands to the wastegate solenoid (the solenoid directs the airflow to the actuator).
I'm confused by your post... are you only seeing a max of 8 psi of boost?
thanks for answering i am new at this stuff i am a summitt series drag racer motor with spray turbos are differant i need all the help i can get the info i have gotten is from a ford tech scary right! yes i am only getting 8psi max with the red line connected 11psi off can you give advise i am looking for 15-18psi thanks
Well, the first thing would be to check for exhaust leaks that would lower exhaust drive pressure, in turn lowering boost. At the front of the passenger side exhaust manifold, there is a steel tube that exits, and heads upwards to the front of the engine, where a sensor resides. Remove this line, clean it out. You may need to replace it, several of us here have actually had HOLES in the tube and was leaking exhaust right out of it. Also clean the sensor. Lying on your back (preferably on a creeper or cardboard), look at the junction where the two exhaust pipes meet opposite of the exhaust manifolds. Chances are you will see black soot leaking out and down on the pipes. This a common failure. Let us know if you see soot there, or anywhere else rather. Also, check every boot and clamp in the pathway leaving the turbo outlet, to the engine inlet. There are 6.
I'll second what Strokin said. Boost and exhaust leaks are common, and are the #1 cause of boost loss, lack of power, and lower fuel mileage. Check all the boots and clamps to make sure there are no leaks and they are tight. Check the exhaust manifolds and up-pipes for any sign of soot. Common area for exhaust leaks is right behind the turbo where the up-pipes meet up into the y-collector.
thanks pocket good reaction time at the brand. cool truck to if this helps you guys i also have a hypertech programmer installed stage 3. the truck would not fall out of a tree untill i installed it
thanks pocket good reaction time at the brand. cool truck to if this helps you guys i also have a hypertech programmer installed stage 3. the truck would not fall out of a tree untill i installed it
With a boost leak that bad, I hope you have gauges installed. Any chip or tuner will cause EGT's to rise. When you aren't getting enough air, EGT's will spike through the roof. If your temps are sustained over 1250 degrees for a long enough period of time, you'll start melting pistons.
Please please tell me you have gauges.... at least a pyro!!!!!!!!!!!
Diesels can run much much leaner than gas engines and be perfectly happy. There is no set air/fuel ratio on diesels. However, excessive fuel and a lack of air will quickly make temps rise. Remember that diesel fuel has more BTU's than gasoline. Plus diesels run at much higher compression. You have all the ingredients there for more heat.
ok i will install a pyro now one more stupid question how do you read a pyro. and when is the reading dangerous.
My personal limit is sustained running over 1200-1250. You can hit it hard for a few seconds much hotter than that, but you have to be careful. A melted piston isn't fun...
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